Cooler Edinburgh

We went up to Edinburgh, for our summer visit to Eldest Son and his family, in the middle of the latest English heatwave.  We left early to avoid the worst of the heat but saw our car’s temperature gauge indicate a steady climb in heat as we travelled through the Midlands and Lancashire.  Temperatures only leveled out at about 28 degrees Centigrade as we hit the hills and mountains of the edge of the Lake District and entered Scotland.

Then, as we approached Edinburgh from the south east, we noticed a low cloud over the Firth of Forth and, as we approached the city, this moved inland to envelop Arthurs Seat.  By the time we got into the city, the haar – a cold sea fog seemingly peculiar to Scotland’s east coast – had pushed the temperature down 10 degrees.  The haar cleared and the heat gradually returned but it was an interesting meteorological phenomenon providing a welcome break from recent heat.

Our exploits in Edinburgh over a long weekend were similar to those of previous short, summer visits.  ES and his wife provided excellent hospitality, especially the food, and the entertainment we offered the grandchildren was reciprocated with some very funny moments.  First Grandchild’s (FG’s) description of some sort of model of an erupting volcano at his nursery as ‘it was ridiculous actually’ was priceless.  Plus, his interest in the placement of traffic cones on bus shelters, parking signs and statues along our bus route to the National Museum was very amusing.

'Traffic Cones In The Wrong Place!'
‘Traffic Cones In The Wrong Place!’

The National Museum of Scotland is a banker for entertaining small children and FG loves it.  We also paid a visit to the Royal Botanic Gardens, as we almost always do with FG and his new sister.  The gardens look great at this time of year and the garden’s cafés and restaurants are excellent.

Edinburgh's Royal Botanic Gardens
Edinburgh’s Royal Botanic Gardens

We had had to postpone this Edinburgh visit by a few weeks and I thought it would be too late to coincide with an exhibition of Joan Eardley work at the Modern Art Galleries of Scotland but I managed to catch it on its penultimate day. 

'Catterline in Winter' By Joan Eardley, Modern Two, Edinburgh
‘Catterline in Winter’ By Joan Eardley, Modern Two, Edinburgh

Over the last few years of visiting Scotland, I have come to love her paintings of land and seascapes created late in her short life in a small village on Scotland’s east coast.  There were a few such paintings on show – some of which I have seen before – and I found them as impressive as ever.  However, this show was an exhibition portraying work from all her life and I was less keen on the earlier items mainly painted in her then home in Glasgow. 

;A Stove' And 'Sleeping Nude'; Earlier Work By Joan Eardley At Modern Two, Edinburgh
‘A Stove’ And ‘Sleeping Nude’; Earlier Work By Joan Eardley At Modern Two, Edinburgh

Also, Eardley’s works on show were mixed with a similar number of paintings by other artists that the curators believed were influences on her.  I liked several of these paintings but, frankly, the links to Eardley’s thinking seemed largely tenuous and I didn’t really ‘get’ the overall narrative that attempted to hold the whole exhibition together.  Nonetheless, the exhibition was free (albeit with a donation) and well worth seeing.

I slipped away from the hubbub of grandparenting on a couple of other occasions.  Once was to follow up on the extraordinary sight of seeing a tank rolling down the road outside ES and his wifes’ flat.  I wandered over to St Andrews Square, where the tank was headed, to see the Armed Forces Day celebrations there in case they would have been of interest to FG.  It turned out to be a bit of damp squib though; the tank appeared to be American (why? I wondered) and was one of only two significant military vehicles on show.  There was little other entertainment available. 

Armed Forces Day, St Andrews Square
Armed Forces Day, St Andrews Square

Much better was a tram trip out to Leith.  I love New Town Edinburgh where ES and his wife live but Leith is a refreshing change. 

Views of Leith

The ostensible reason for going this time was to see up close the numerous huge yellow structures on the coast that we could see in the distance from ES’s flat.  Whilst I couldn’t get as close as I wanted, I did get a good view of them. 

'Minions' and 'Tripods', Port of Leith
‘Tripods’, Port of Leith

They are the components for big windmills being constructed in the North Sea in the Inch Cape field near Angus to the north.  The cylindrical pieces are ‘minions’ and the larger, latticed towers are called ‘tripods’.  Nearby were some of the ships that will carry and install these.  It seems that Leith Port provides a changing range of interesting things to see – on our last visit it was accommodating a huge Tasmanian ferry that had been built in Finland that that had to wait for the harbour in Hobart to be made bigger! 

More Views Of Port Of Leith
More Views Of Port Of Leith

I strolled around Leith port and, since the weather was so nice, I skived off from grandfather duty for an extra 30 minutes to have a beer at Teuchters Landing, the sister bar to another in Edinburgh West End that we are very familiar with.  I sat on a bridge with my pint watching the world go by for a while; naughty but nice.

Teuchters Landing, Leith
Teuchters Landing, Leith

It takes pretty much a day to get there and a day to get back but our visits to Edinburgh are always so rewarding.  It’s lovely to see our family offshoot there.  We love to see how they are coping with two lovely kids, how those kids are developing, and such a cool capital city.

Cool Looking Edinburgh Basement Fern
Cool Looking Edinburgh Basement Fern

Hot Garden at Lasborough Park

Last week, in the height of the latest heat wave across southern and central England, we visited Lasborough Park Gardens.  Local schools had closed for the day because of the heat and we wondered if the open day at Lasborough would be cancelled due to the heat.  Hah!  Was it Noel Coward or Rudyard Kipling who said ‘mad dogs and Englishmen go out in the midday sun’?  Neither we or the National Garden Scheme who had organized the garden open day, were to be deterred.

It was, in truth, too hot for loitering beyond the shade offered by the garden (and, particularly, the woodland area which is currently being redeveloped).  However, moving from one patch of shade to another offered very rewarding views of a beautifully colourful garden.  The huge walled garden, overlooked by an elegant greenhouse that is full of diverse geraniums, was especially impressive.

Parkland Surrounding Lasborough Park Gardens And The Wonderful Walled Garden And Greenhouse
Parkland Surrounding Lasborough Park Gardens And The Wonderful Walled Garden And Greenhouse

The garden was developed by Julia Rausing, the wife of Hans Kristian Rausing.  He is a Swedish billionaire and the son of packaging industrialist Hans Rausing.  His grandfather founded the food-packaging giant Tetra Pak.  Hans Kristian has a somewhat chequered past but, after marrying Julia, set up one of the largest philanthropic trusts in the UK and was knighted in 2025. 

Julia collaborated with the famous garden designer, Tom Stuart-Smith from 2016 until her death in 2024.  Money was clearly not much of a constraint in developing a wonderful garden and both the garden and the surrounding parkland continue to evolve.  

One Of The Avenues In The Walled Garden., Lasborough Park
One Of The Avenues In The Walled Garden, Lasborough Park

The current head gardener explained to us how Julia had insisted on including a huge number of roses rather than the grasses that are apparently the signature plants of most Tom Stuart-Smith gardens.  He also explained how the current upkeep and enhancements of the gardens are continuing in line with Julia’s wishes and objectives and that Tom Stuart-Smith continues to provide periodic supervision. 

Lasborough Park Gardens
More Views of Lasborough Park House And Gardens

There were much appreciated and needed refreshments after the walkabout around the gardens.  We left very satisfied with the afternoon and the rare opportunity to see up close the gardens only previous glimpsed on past walks in the area.  We were glad of the air-conditioning in the car though!

The outing to Lasborough Park had capped a good week.  Early June had included a number of various health scares (now resolved) for two of our daughters in law and my wife, Jane, and life started to return to normal and have a welcome uptick with arrival of Jane’s birthday.  Middle Son, his partner and our Second Grandson (SG) came over to our house and I managed to serve up lunch using a great, and well tested, Coronation Chicken recipe from Thomasina Miers.  We had a great time in lovely weather entertaining SG in and around our house and a stream adjacent to our garden.

My Coronation Chicken Salad - I Was Pretty Proud Of This!
My Coronation Chicken Salad – I Was Pretty Proud Of This!

And the fun continued after Lasborough with a trip to Edinburgh to see Eldest Son and his family.  More on that later…..