Visiting Two Sons

A couple of weekends ago we drove the 350 miles north to Edinburgh to get another hugely welcome dose of Eldest Son (ES), his wife and their delightful son.  My dodgy back more than held up through the drives up and down, the weather was clear and dry, the electric car charging points we used were all working and available, and so both journeys were smooth. 

The (Long) Road To Edinburgh At Keele Services

Throughout our visit, First Grandchild (FG) was an unalloyed joy.  He only had one 30 minute spell when he was tired and grumpy, but he is now old enough to be distractible and consolable.  Whilst his parents have to deal with more of the everyday stresses and strains (and some very early mornings) than I can really remember from our own parenting days, they are settling into their own parenthood, married life and their flat; and FG seems to be loving life!

We had many little trips out with the little one including to the National Museum of Scotland and the Royal Botanic Garden Edinburgh.  Both venues have become fixtures in our itinerary for every trip since they are both so toddler-friendly and free (while presumably relying in large part on donations). 

Water Of Leith At Leith, Edinburgh

We managed a trip out to South Edinburgh with FG, ES and wife to a lovely, relatively new café (Elliott’s) and we twice slipped into Spry Wine Shop and Bar which is, so far, my favourite bar in Edinburgh.  Jane commented that being on our own in Spry felt like being naughtily awol from grand-parenting duties but we did babysit later to enable ES and his wife to visit the same bar one evening.

It was a lovely few days of catch-up, good food and of being able to see, first hand, First Grandchild’s developing physicality, brainpower and, perhaps most of all, his sense of humour.  The videos we now play every day (sometimes multiple times a day) are those of him mucking about and giggling.  As grandparents he is just an absolute treat and we are lucky to be able to see him every couple of months or so.

Grey Skies Over Edinburgh From The Royal Botanical Gardens

We were able to visit Middle Son and his partner in Bristol shortly after our return from Edinburgh.  A highlight was to be able to see, open/close and touch their new bedroom wardrobes.  These were custom made by a craftsman cabinet maker from our village who is near retirement but who is very skilled and has done work in the past in our house.  We are so pleased we could help make the connection to him.  The wardrobes looked great.

We then all went to a very swish new Spanish restaurant called Paco Tapas which is run by an apparently Michelin starred chef (Peter Sanchez-Inglesias).  His reputation and that of his kitchen clearly goes before him and brings in the crowds – the restaurant was packed despite a cost of living crisis and relatively high prices.  Certainly the food was very good and some of the small plates were exceptional.  I especially liked the lamb rump, pork ribs, patatas bravas and citrusy fennel.  I also loved that I faced the kitchen where much was cooked over open flames in a way that provided a bit of extra theatre.

The Avon At Wapping Wharf, Bristol

The restaurant was in an area of Bristol that I didn’t know on the south bank of the Avon estuary called Wapping Wharf.  It was clearly once a heavily used port area.  Large, old cranes still dominate the harbourside while rail tracks criss-cross the roads.  There were still many boats on the quayside from modern cruisers (including one surmounted by a helicopter!), to small cargo ships, to The Matthew of Bristol which is a reconstruction of the boat John Cabot used to discover Newfoundland in 1497.

‘The Matthew At Bristol’ And Princes Wharf Cranes

It was raining so we didn’t loiter but the wharf and nearby marinas, container-based shopping units and restaurants looked interesting and meriting another visit.  Indeed, visiting the cities that our sons have moved to over the last year – Edinburgh, Bristol and Belfast – is one of our great pleasures these days.  However, later this week we are taking a break from that cycle to visit Paris…… whoop, whoop!

Barnsley and Bath

Despite a few days of frosty mornings, spring feels like it is coming.  Cheerful little snowdrops are out in the verges of our lanes.  The birds are getting ever more active and noisy.  We can open the blinds when we come down in the morning and get the start of proper daylight and the afternoons no longer seem so truncated.  There was another heavy frost this morning but another winter is passing into greater light and warmth.

A Recent Frosty Morning – Pretty Though!

I need to start getting active in the garden to clear the as yet unharvested leeks and the rotten stumps of chard and beetroot that I failed to harvest or that the deer got to before I could.  Unfortunately, the very frustrating back strain I picked up while coughing (would you believe it!) last month continues to constrain activity a bit and I continue to use it as an excuse to restrict myself to extremely light, low-value gardening duties.

I have continued to use walking (plus a few elementary and, I admit, rather half-heartedly undertaken back exercises) as a way of gradually increasing my back’s mobility.  In keeping with my wife’s and my joint New Year resolution to get out more when the weather is forecast to be nice, we went for a lengthy walk around Barnsley a couple of weeks ago.  This is not the large market town in South Yorkshire but a nearby village in the Cotswolds that we have visited several times before, but not for a few years.

Despite having a fairly busy road running through it, this Barnsley is one of those picture book Cotswold towns and villages that are full of pretty cottages and large rich merchant and manor houses.  There’s a popular pub and Barnsley House – previously home to Rosemary Verey, a famous gardener – is a popular spa and tourist attraction.  We didn’t visit those but, rather, walked mainly around the village through open fields, woodland and old parkland.  The frost made the ground firmer than expected after the January rain and the sky was brilliant blue.  It was a lovely, refreshing walk.

Winter Scenes Around Barnsley, Gloucestershire

In a further impromptu excursion last week, Jane and I popped south to Bath.  The main element of our planned visit was to pick up a couple of loaves of sourdough bread from the rather wonderful Landrace.  It’s a great establishment that worked hard to survive the Covid lockdowns and which sells the best bread I know of.

A Great Group Of Trees In The Circus, Bath

Bath is a fair old way to go for just bread so we also visited The Holburne Museum.  We also had a very tasty and pleasant lunch at the recently opened Beckford Canteen which is a stylish restaurant set up in an ex-Georgian greenhouse. 

At the Holburne Museum we bought tickets for an exhibition of Albrecht Dürer’s woodcuts depicting The Great Passion of Christ and the woodcut publications of a number of Durer’s mentors, contemporaries and followers.  The links with the development of the printing press and Lutheranism were of interest but we both found an adjoining exhibition of very different, modern art rather more compelling.

One Of 11 Albrecht Durer Woodcuts Telling The Story Of ‘The Great Passion’

The core of this exhibition by Alberta Whittle was a collection of elaborately decorated figures representing African slaves in various poses related to limbo dancing.  What was enlightening for both Jane and I was the fact that slaves on slave ships crossing the Atlantic in the 18th century were offered precious time on deck (away from the stinking and confined quarters below) in return for entertaining the sailors with limbo dancing.  The figures were alongside decorated cartons which, after inquisition of the Museum guide, we understood to representations of the containers that were used for water and cologne used to douse the slave performers so as to reduce their pungent smell while on deck.

‘Dipping Below A Waxing Moon, The Dance Saves Us’ By Alberta Whittle

Whittle’s work here was powerful and informative.  In the subject matter and use of brilliant colour, it was reminiscent of the exhibition of a huge procession constructed by Hew Locke that I saw at Tate Britain last September.  It was the highlight of our day (if only because we didn’t eat the Landrace bakery bread until the following day).

We have a further life highlight planned later this week: our first visit of the year to Edinburgh to see First Grandchild and his parents!  I’m not sure what to expect from my dodgy back after being in car for 8-9 hours, but I am so looking forward to being in Edinburgh again. 

Then, to hurry along time until Spring is really here, we have booked a few days in Paris.  It’s been years since we travelled abroad so I’m looking forward to getting my passport stamped according to the new Brexity rules and being part of Europe again.  There’s nice bread there (and in Edinburgh) too!

Late Winter Sunset