I hit a birthday milestone a weeks or so ago; one of those relatively big ones with a 0 on the end. Birthdays seem less and less significant as one gets older but Jane, my wife, ensured that this one was celebrated with a lot of fun, enjoyment and very good memories.
My birthday week started, as it almost always does, with a Bank Holiday weekend. We didn’t exert ourselves much but I did make it over to a neighbouring village of Amberley where I have a small allotment. I picked some rhubarb and did some cursory weeding to show I’m still occupying the rather abandoned-looking vegetable patch.
My timing was perfect in that, while in the village, I could see the preparations for the Amberley Cow Hunt without having to press through any of the crowds that would be gathering later in the day. The Amberley Cow Hunt route is populated by a series of decorated pictures of cows, each illustrating a pun or other play on words. Each year, the cows on show seem increasingly sponsored by local business and ever more impressive.

Much of that weekend was taken up with gardening at our own home and visiting the HogFest, a beer, food and music festival at our local pub, The Hog at Horsley. As usual, the beer and entertainment there was various and good. A highlight was watching a singer in one of the several bands put her entire body, from head to foot, through a stringless tennis racket; impressive slimness and flexibility!

My birthday itself was marked by an excellent dinner with, to my surprise, a few local friends. I had vaguely been wondering why Jane had bought so much food given my expectation of a quiet dinner with just her. Then the table decorations started to look a little over the top for just that and, as she started cooking, she admitted that she was cooking for eight not two. We had a great evening.
Next day, birthday celebrations continued in Pembrokeshire. Jane had booked a room at Grove, a very luxurious hotel. She had also booked a ‘fine dining’ experience in their renowned restaurant. We wandered around the very well-tended hotel gardens which supply many of the vegetables and flowers they use in the hotel. Then we settled into the bar and restaurant.


Fine dining it was! There were multiple courses from three appetisers through to three petit fours at the end. The small plates of food in between were little marvels. They introduced by the waiter/waitress who explained the incredible number of ingredients in each dish. The flavours were amazing and over the couple of hours it took to savour them all, we became too full to eat the petit fours which we therefore saved in a little box until the next evening.
Next morning we went into nearby Narberth to plot more modest eating and drinking arrangements for the evening. Narberth proved to be very pleasant. We had breakfast at Fforc where I indulged a little in a hearty Welsh fry up. We then wandered a little and particularly enjoyed The Malthouse which had a huge selection of antiques (almost all a step up from bric-a-brac) including antique maps, which I have always liked, and garden equipment.

We came away with a large pot, an old dustbin for one of Jane’s roses, and a vintage watering can. This will replace the couple of old metal watering cans which both have holes that pour little streams of water on my legs as I carry them. The items we bought were all about a third the price of similar items in our Gloucestershire shops so we felt rather smug.
Since the weather was sunny and bright, we drove south to spend much of the rest of the day on the coast. First, we visited the extensive Stackpole Estate owned by the National Trust.

This was an excellent mix of cliff tops carpeted by wildflowers, precipitous views down to the sea, dunes, ancient woodlands and calm lakes and lily ponds. To take all this in involved a lengthy but relaxed walk. While I was enjoying all the sights enormously, I was also conscious of my fortune at being able to walk so much given the issues I had with my ankle and knee last year (and, now, my milestone breaking age!)



In The Woods And By The Lakes Of The Stackpole Estate
We had time to travel a little along the coast to St Non’s where, legend would have it, St David was born to St Non in stormy and unassisted conditions. The original chapel for St Non is now a ruin near the well where St David was apparently born, but there is a newer Chapel of Our Lady and St Non which was very sweet. Both chapels have great coastal views and are underpinned by a great story.

Before heading back towards Narberth, we popped into Stackpole Walled Gardens. These are run as an outlet for local people with learning disabilities but visitors are also allowed to walk around. The grounds, now being redeveloped, were clearly once a very grand series of walled gardens and greenhouses heated not only by the sun, but also by underground boilers. Our time there was an unplanned pleasure.

Also a little ad hoc, was our brief stopover in Tenby. This is a Victorian holiday resort that I recall from my last visit well over 50 years ago to be a busy tourist town full of amusement arcades and, for the 1960’s, fast food. Now it is a lot more sophisticated than my, probably faulty, memory. There are pretty terraces of Victorian houses, beautiful beaches, old and less old castles, and broad coastal views. We also found the lively Harbwr Brewery with its multiple bars and roof terrace for a welcome beer and an element of our more routine days – the Guardian Quick Crossword.

To round off the day we went back to Narberth for a drink in Hwb, a craft beer bar with pop-up food outlets. The beer was very good and the burgers were serviceable – a step or two down from the seven or eight course meal of the night before but just right in the context of our splendid and very full day out.
Next day we headed out fairly early to St David’s. The city – a city because it has a cathedral – is tiny; the smallest in Britain. Most of the mostly very pretty houses seemed to be holiday lets and there were many fewer shops than I expected. However, we managed to find a very good café called Minnow and we had healthy, tasty breakfast and very good coffee there.
We walked around the city for a bit hoping to find a newsagent that took my Guardian newspaper vouchers but failed. We ended up simply gravitating to the city centrepiece: St Davids Cathedral and the adjoining ruins of the Bishop’s Palace.


The cathedral is in a beautiful setting and is very well preserved inside and out. The nave is unusual – if not unique. It slopes upwards by about four metres from one end to the other so that columns supporting the roof become progressively shorter towards the altar. Also, all the columns in the nave tilt outwards. This is apparently due to weak foundations and gentle earthquakes over the centuries. The cathedral is fascinating, beautiful and, when we visited, very peaceful.

We passed on the opportunity to visit the adjacent Bishops Palace and instead decided to head towards home with a quick stopover in Solva. While Jane went off to find a wool mill and shop, I strolled up and along one of the headlands protecting Solva Harbour. It was a lovely walk past ancient lime kilns and along paths with wildflowers, big views and few people. It was a good way to end our stay in Pembrokeshire.

I’m not going to celebrate being 70 again but we will hopefully revisit Pembrokeshire soon.



















































































