Betwixtmas in Belfast

The period between Christmas Day and New Years Eve appears to have a new name (new for me, anyway): Betwixtmas.  These few days at the end of December can feel like a strange little lull.  Christmas Day is such a climax of social interaction, celebration, eating and drinking.  Then, although we no longer stay up to see the New Year in, the advent of a New Year is another cause for celebration and new hope.  The days in between often feel calm but can also feel like filler.

Until quite late in my career, I usually drifted into work or ‘worked from home’ to get peripheral tasks done without using up precious holiday allowances.  Because so many colleagues were out of the office for the holiday period, I could often get a surprising amount done.  Later, I tended to take time off to chill out after Christmas away from London.  Now I’m retired, there are even more options to relax into Betwixtmas.

This year we were lucky enough to be able to spend Betwixtmas in Belfast with Youngest Son (YS) and his wife.  For us this year, Betwixtmas was busy and bright – certainly not ‘filler’.  Our Belfast trip followed our first Boxing Day for nearly 40 years without any offspring.  The uniqueness of that was tempered by a sunny walk, a very good lunch at a local and recently expanded pub (The Old Fleece), a brief visit to nearby friends and then an early night.

The weather in Belfast was very good for the time of year and the logistics of travel to get there worked.  Once we were in Belfast, we had a really relaxed and great time. 

Views From The Metropolitan Arts Centre, Belfast

YS and his wife are a brilliant team.  They are currently setting up a new osteopathy and Pilates business called Nellie Studio.  This will be on a floor of a Victorian warehouse in East Belfast that they are renovating.  They have grappled with the treacle of having to obtain planning permission and building regulations control for the listed building and are now pressing the letting agent and builders to get the space ready for income generating osteopathy treatments and Pilates workouts.  Observing the way they are working together to achieve all of this was inspiring.

Billie Studio’s Osteopathy Treatment Room Taking Shape

In between dashing across Belfast to source curtain poles and extra wood flooring, while we babysat their dog, YS and his wife entertained us with films and sport in their cosy lounge, trips to excellent restaurants and walks in surprisingly sunny weather.  For me, the only blemish to Betwixtmas was that Forest Green Rovers (the football team I support rather too obsessively) failed to win either of the televised games in the period.

Dog (Reggie) Sitting With A Very Relaxed Dog
Dog (Reggie) Sitting With A Very Relaxed Dog

Belfast is a significantly smaller city than Bristol or Edinburgh where our other sons live.  However, it is developing quickly as the Northern Ireland Troubles gradually recede into history.  Young entrepreneurs appear to be establishing new independent businesses and there is already a busy and excellent café, restaurant and bar scene.  There are far fewer of these than in, say, Edinburgh; but how many does one need?  Belfast has enough and is developing further between each of our visits.

Breakfasts are particularly well done.  Cultura again stood out for me as the most outstanding breakfast but we also had a great brunch at DRIP and the best coffee was at Established which has long been one of our favourite breakfast haunts. 

On an outing to the south of Belfast, we visited Fodder in the Woods for a burger lunch and then wandered around the associated gift and food shops and Finnebrogue Woods.  It seems that, well beyond Belfast, young businesses are starting up everywhere.

Fodder In The Woods And Finnebrogue Loch
Fodder In The Woods And Finnebrogue Loch

We also had a treat of a dinner at the new Capparelli at the Mill restaurant that has been established by one of Yotam Ottolenghi’s ex-chefs.  It is in a lovely building that has been expanded imaginatively and lovingly.  The service and food were outstanding and I can’t wait to go again.

Capparelli Mill
The Approach To Capparelli At The Mill

We ate very well throughout our stay.  YS, his wife and her mother all produced great home cooking for us on successive evenings.  We also visited a couple of pubs that we hadn’t been to before (The Jeggy Nettle, which had a lovely open fire, and Northern Lights, which had a range of twenty craft beers of the type I like).  YS also gave us the first margaritas we could recall drinking – complete with salt around the top of the glass – all very innovative and special for us!

'Archer Fam' Chicken Pie By YS's Wife - Delicious!
‘Archer Fam’ Chicken Pie By YS’s Wife – Delicious!

We squeezed some culture and some walks into the schedule.  As on previous Belfast visits we strolled through the Botanic Gardens to the Ulster Museum

Inside The Ulster Museum
Inside The Ulster Museum

Here, the exhibition on the origin and history of The Troubles is well put together and informative.  We had seen this before but there is too much to absorb in any one visit and this time I focused on the videos spelling out origins of The Troubles.  We have seen the excellent, recent TV series Say Nothing, Trespasses and (most of) Once Upon a Time in Northern Ireland and the Ulster Museum provided another dimension to our understanding of the issues and the way they have been, at least partially, resolved.

Collection OF Ceramics By Local Artists At The Ulster Museum
Collection OF Ceramics By Local Artists At The Ulster Museum

On our last morning, we popped into the Metropolitan Arts Centre (MAC) where there were exhibitions by William McKeown, Niamh Seana Meehan, Marie Hanlon & Rhona Clarke.  Each one was diverting in their diverse ways and the building itself is interesting.  I’m sure we will visit the Ulster Museum and the MAC again during future Belfast trips.

Sea Skin By Niamh Seana Meehan At MAC
Sea Skin By Niamh Seana Meehan At MAC

So, Betwixtmas was very successful for us this year.  It came following a wonderful Christmas Day with Second Grandchild (SG), Middle Son (MS), his fiancée and her mother in Bristol.  MS treated us to not only brunch but then a very tasty Christmas dinner of chicken, ham, pigs in blankets, stuffing and about six vegetable side dishes – my plate near overfloweth! 

MS Was So Impressively In Control OF Chrismas Lunch (Ably Supported BY His Sous Chefs) That He Was Able To Take Us For a Walk Through St Werburghs, A Very Bohemian Part Of Bristol
MS Was So Impressively In Control Of Christmas Lunch (Ably Supported By His Sous Chefs) That He Was Able To Take Us For a Walk Through St Werburghs, A Very Bohemian Part Of Bristol With Gaudi-esque Buildings

Betwixtmas ends with New Year’s Eve.  As we move past New Years Day and into the early days of the new year, there is a chance to think about hopes and resolutions for 2026.  Maybe I’ll write about those New Year Resolutions later this month if I can sustain actually doing them for that long.  Meanwhile, Happy New Year to all!

Great As It Is To Travel Away From Home, It Is Always Good To Come Back - Ruskin Mill In Winter Sun
Great As It Is To Travel Away From Home, It Is Always Good To Come Back – Ruskin Mill In Winter Sun

Joy At A Belfast Wedding

The last weekend of September was one of life’s memorable high points.  I’m still humming from the pleasure of that weekend during which our Youngest Son (YS) got married to a lovely Belfast woman who he has known for almost 10 years.

Belfast City Hall

The tear-jerking (for me, anyway) formal ceremony itself was in the impressive Belfast City Hall.  Before and after these formalities, there were great opportunities to meet up with the bride and grooms’ friends and family and to celebrate the marriage.  There were weekend events in a hipster brewery bar, in a traditional central Belfast pub, at the newly married couple’s home and at an impeccably organized and delivered reception at Waterman House.  The vast majority of our close family was there – including both our grandchildren.  Jane and I loved every minute.  I think the bride and groom had a rather special time too!

Sun Shining, A Beautiful Building And A Happy Couple

Life can be wonderful (if you can avoid things like climate-change-accentuated weather catastrophe’s, poverty, wars, and ill health).  I have always been a ‘half-empty’ person who worries about the news and the future.  However, Jane would say that we need to live in and appreciate the current moments and certainly this Belfast wedding weekend was compelling encouragement to think that way. 

Awww… Happy!

Jane and I know how fortunate we are to be able to have experienced grandchildren and to see our sons married to such lovely people.  It is now just Middle Son (MS) to go on the marriage front but he and his fiancée have already given us the privilege of Second Grandchild.  He was a little marvel throughout the Belfast trip and celebrations.  He was so calm as he was passed around the revellers and I was personally chuffed by the number of instant and gorgeous smiles I got from him during the weekend. 

First Grandchild (FG) was a treat too.  Although he struggled with my explanations of the concept of marriage, he fell further in love with the bride – perhaps that was because she was dressed a bit like an angel – and he loved the hugs he got from her. 

In Love With An Angel?

We, and our two elder sons and their families, stayed at the ideally located, cool and very comfortable Bullitt Hotel.  Our room was large enough for us to give Eldest Son and his wife a break by playing indoor games with FG.  Jane played a card pairing game and we introduced him to the idea of paper planes.  He played enthusiastically with one for ages; who needs manufactured toys!?

Jane also took FG off during the wedding reception since he was struggling with the noise levels and needed a break.  Jane only just made it back in time to deliver her speech.  I found a draft version of her speech on my phone in case I needed to step in but the Master of Ceremonies – a naturally funny and larger-than-life Australian friend of the now married couple – had the situation under control.  Jane returned just in time to deliver perfectly.  All the speeches including those from the bride’s parents and another Australian friend of the married couple were amusing and hit their mark.

We ate extremely well and Watermans Restaurant did a tremendous job of delivering four choices of three courses of food to so many very efficiently and effectively.  The drinks flowed and the music and dancing started.  As the music got louder so I spent more time in the adjacent alley so I could hear conversations with my ageing ears.  My ageing knees didn’t prevent a bit of Dad-dancing though.  However, I saw from subsequently released video that the dancing became increasingly rumbustious after Jane and I left the youngsters to it.

In between all the wedding related events we enjoyed the sunny weather and Belfast.  Breakfast each day quickly settled into a routine of meeting with grandchildren and their parents at Established, a café we seem to visit during every Belfast trip.  The food is simple but just right for me and the Americano coffee is great.  We also had excellent lunches there and at General Merchants in Ormeau Road.  Belfast is small relative to, say Bristol, London or Edinburgh but it has become well equipped with enough excellent, modern cafes and restaurants.

Belfast’s Botanic Gardens And Ulster Museum

We wandered through the Botanic Gardens and visited the Ulster Museum again.  Our intention was to visit an exhibition on Belfast political murals.  That was closed so we diverted to another exhibition of textiles created around the world to illustrate conflict and humanitarian issues (“Threads of Empowerment: Conflict Textiles’ International Journey”).

Inside The “Threads of Empowerment” Exhibition
A Collective Catalonian Arpillera Called ‘Hands On’ Showing Community Self Help With Over 200 Characters – One Of The More Positive Pieces On Show

We had seen something similar at Kettles Yard, Cambridge about a year ago.  That had exhibited Palestinian embroidery.  This Ulster Museum exhibition covered a wider international scope.  Many of the works focused on South American conflicts and especially ‘The Disappeared’ but the most moving works for me were reflections on the Holocaust by Heidi Drahota, a German (below).

The museum has an excellent ceramics section and a very good permanent exhibition covering the Northern Irish Troubles which we saw last visit.  We saved revisiting the latter for another trip so as not to risk the upbeat mood of the weekend.  Not that much could have dented that. 

Inside Ulster Museum: The Ceramics Section

It was great that the wider family made the effort to come to the wedding, it was great to meet or re-meet the married couple’s friends, it was great that the sun shone and that the whole event passed off in lovely locations without a blemish.  It was a perfect Belfast wedding and we are very happy that YS and his partner have (finally) ‘tied the knot’ and that we have more visits to Northern Ireland in prospect.

Views Of Belfast – We’ll Be Back Soon!

Breaking the Routine – To Visit and Be Visited

After Jane’s Mother’s funeral early last month, we had visits from my Dad and my sister and then my Best Man (BM).  A quiet week followed before we headed off to Belfast to see Youngest Son (YS) and his partner.  I’ve written a lot about my retirement settling me into a new structure of daily routine but these visits were a nice break from that and forced changes to our settled pattern of everyday life – a beneficial shake up.

It had been quite a while since my Dad and sister had visited us.  Whilst there have been no structural changes to the house or garden since their last visit, the garden has matured.  The weather was largely fine and the garden was approaching its best in terms of colour and variety.  This, despite the loss of several small shrubs and many of the ornamental grasses during the cold and wet of late Winter and early Spring.

Garden Colour: Late May Irises

We ventured out on a few short local walks together while my Dad and sister were with us.  Unfortunately, the bluebells in the woods on the way into town were well past their best but there was enough to see and the strolls were pleasant and largely sunlit. 

We also had an excellent dinner at The Woolpack Inn in Slad near Stroud (thanks Dad!).  This pub was made famous by the poet, Laurie Lee and it’s a great venue to go to with visitors to Gloucestershire.  On one hand it looks like what people typically envisage an old rural pub to be (the toilets are still outside!) and the atmosphere is intimate and cosy.  On the other hand, it offers modern, excellent food, and smiling but unoppressive service.  In addition, I had a really well-kept pint of India Pale Ale.

Double Rainbow From Our Dinner Table Window At The Woolpack

Later in the week, the arrival of my BM, an old friend from university, was dominated by his exciting news that he is getting married.  We met his fiancé, a lovely Chinese woman, in 2020 just before the Covid lockdown.  After a lockdown apart, they are now together in Kenya and planning their wedding.  It’s a lovely story of late life (for him, anyway) romance and we enjoyed catching up with that and the other developments in BM’s life during good food and long walks.

Our trip to Belfast was long awaited.  YS and his partner bought a house there at the end of last year and we have been keen to visit it and them since then.  YS wanted to settle into the house – and get the spare bedroom renovated – before inviting us.  Then that invitation was postponed by YS and his partner taking on the responsibility for a large and lively puppy.  We finally arrived to meet ‘Reggie’!  He is a disruptive handful but they love him despite his chewing of the furniture and the digging up of the lawn. 

Reggie

The house is already great and has a lot of potential.  I liked the local area, Ormeau, very much; it is a much larger residential area than I remembered with several roads with pretty Victorian terraces and later rows of larger, well-built houses.  There are a smattering of attractive independent businesses on the main road and river walks and the Belfast Botanic Gardens and Ulster Museum are nearby. 

Inside The Belfast Botanic Gardens Palm House

We visited the Botanical Garden Palm House briefly but spent far longer in the Ulster Museum.  This has a very diverse set of exhibits and attractions set in an airy combination of old and new buildings.  Since YS moved to Belfast, I have focused more than before on articles and television programmes about Ireland but my understanding of its history remains thin; the museum provided a lot of reminders and filled in a lot of gaps. 

Inside The Ulster Museum With Porcelain Works By Frances Lambe And Nuala O’Donovan

As well as displays about Ulster and Northern Ireland history there was some beautiful craftmanship on show.  Overall, it is well worth a (free!) visit and I’m sure we will go again.

The weather in Belfast was noticeably cooler than back in England but it was mainly sunny and clear; perfect for walks along the coast to the east of Belfast and around the green enclaves of Belfast along the Lagan River – both with and without Reggie. 

Walking With Reggie in Belvoir Park Forest, Belfast
The Path On The South Side Of The Lagan Estuary
Lagan Meadows, Belfast

We were also able to leave Reggie so we could visit YS’s place of work in a renovated set of warehouses and factories in East Belfast.  His offices weren’t open but we were able to sample a beer (and a few games of Bananagrams – YS loves games!) in the Boundary Brewing Taproom next door.

YS’s Office And Building

YS’s partner’s business (Restore Osteopathy) is more centrally located in the Cathedral Quarter.  Here she practices not only osteopathy in a very attractive treatment room but also leads yoga and Pilates classes in two large, ideally suited rooms.  It’s a wonderful space for what she does.  Both YS and his partner have more than found their feet in Belfast.

YS’s Partner’s Yoga Spaces And Treatment Room

Belfast itself is very lively and seems to have so much potential if only the politics would calm down and business could invest with even more certainty.  It is a small city compared to London.  But, like Edinburgh (which is about 50% bigger) it is a capital city, has some impressive things to see and is attracting increasing numbers of young people setting up new businesses. 

Great coffee houses and interesting and enjoyable restaurants are popping up across the city.  On this trip we ate at EDŌ where we had a welcome chance to catch up with YS’s partner’s parents (thanks for dinner guys!) and Waterman House.  We breakfasted on trendy bread from an bakery (Bakari) apparently using Icelandic recipes.

Waterman House Restaurant With A Large Painting Of Belfast By Colin Davidson
Belfast Cathedral Quarter

Being visited and visiting others disrupts our well-worn micro-routines.  This is a good thing.  Having YS ask us whether we want a beer at 4.30pm instead of waiting till our traditional 6pm drinking time is a good challenge.  Not finding time to do the Quick Crossword at 5pm is actually ok for a day or two.  Having to scrabble around in the depths of a cupboard for our sugar bowl for a visitor that takes sugar in their coffee isn’t much trouble really.  Dealing with the issues of a new puppy is unsettling but helps to keep us on our toes.  Seeing new places and finding out about them is always interesting.  We should, and will, do more and I should avoid getting stuck in my ways.