Roman Wedding

The wedding of one of Jane’s nieces – the set piece event of our Italy trip – followed sharp on the heels of our family holiday near Orvieto in Italy.  We travelled south to Rome and dropped off First Grandchild and his parents with a couple of goodbye sniffles and sobs.  We then made our way to our Airbnb in central Rome to grab a bite to eat and change into our wedding garb.

The formal element of the wedding was held in the City Hall in the heart of Rome and adjoining the Piazza Del Campidoglio.   We gathered in a rather sumptuous room decorated in a deep red with several big flags and banners.  It was an impressive backdrop to a lovely bi-lingual ceremony in which Italian law set out the obligations of both bride and groom with regard to, among other things, living arrangements, looking out for one another and bringing up children.  There was much cheering, primarily and initially from the Italian groom’s side of the family, to underline the Italian-flavoured drama of the event.

Piazza Del Campidoglio (With The City Hall To The Right)

The reception was on the outskirts of Rome in and around a lovely old house which was accommodating the now married couple their closest relatives.  The food and drinks had been carefully selected by the groom and the local wines were various and, I thought, very good indeed.  The buffet of antipasto was splendid. I probably overindulged given that this was followed by a lovely four-course meal but the spiced cold pork on offer was to die for and I didn’t hold back.

Arriving At The Wedding Reception

The wedding speeches were delivered in Italian, English and Madagascan to reflect the roots of the main protagonists and their best men and women.  Printed transcriptions of these helped us understand the humour and the emotions in these speeches and they all added value.

Then, just as the evening chill was starting to become noticeable – especially for the relatively lightly-clad women at the party – there was dancing.  Following the initial wedding dance standards there was, as expected, an even more ebullient period of Madagascan music and dancing.  This included the Madagascan equivalent of the Conga executed with much enthusiasm.  The Madagascans in Jane’s wider family do love a good dance!

DJ’s took over and it was clear that, for some, it would be a long night of dance, song and drinking.  We grabbed a cab just before midnight and before my alcohol unit count became innumerable.  The whole day had been long but very memorable and enjoyable.

Next day, before our evening flight home, Jane and I did some walking and sightseeing around central Rome.  We had last been here together in the 1980’s before we had children.  I missed out on a subsequent visit with Jane due to pressure of work and a ‘persuasive’ boss so it was lovely to have another opportunity to see some of the iconic Roman buildings in great weather.

The Trevi Fountain – One Of Rome’s Many Tourist Magnets
The Parthenon (With Tourists Like Me!)

We wove through the massed crowds of tourists to see the Trevi Fountain and the Parthenon.  We strolled further afield to towards Piazza Navona take in the atmosphere and revisit the fountains there.  Unfortunately, these fountains, like many monuments in Rome, are currently under restoration in advance of the 2025 Rome Jubilee.  We satisfied ourselves with other sights and appreciated them in the early Autumn Roman sunshine.

Piazza Navona

In the afternoon, I spent a couple of hours meandering around the Colosseum and the large area of various ruins and buildings to the immediate west.  Much of this has been closed off to the non-paying public since I was last in Rome.  I couldn’t bear the idea of the queuing in crowds and heat for tickets and entrance.  Anyway, there was still more than enough to see for free before my knee started to complain and I needed a rest.

The Colosseum, Rome

More Rome!

Indeed, a highlight was entering a church – I failed to note which one – which had some lovely baroque music playing, slumping onto a pew and relaxing to the point of a brief doze.  Bathed in all the memories of the wedding and the last week with the family, I felt chilled out and content. 

The Church Where I Dozed – Beautiful and Restful

With that, I made my way back to the Airbnb and then, with Jane, to our flight home.  Even the train strike causing cancellation of trains to the airport couldn’t shake my feeling of well-being.  It had been a very good week indeed.

Slivers of Summer

Overall, the weather during the last few weeks has been rather disappointing.  The meadow grass in our field that usually waves gently in sunlight at this time of year has, instead, collapsed in the windy wet.  The cool and damp spring and early summer has meant growth of vegetable seedlings has been slow.  Many have been eradicated by slugs and snails who have revelled in the damp conditions.  Fortunately, there have been several lovely days of sun and some of those have been when it has mattered most. 

Roses In Rain: Along The Permissive Footpath Through Ruskin Mill Into Town

For example, we had a lovely sunny afternoon during which we were able to visit Second Grandchild (SG) in Bristol and to help his parents with their garden.  We got a lot done – though there is more potential to fill the vegetable and flower beds with a bit of home produce and colour and we look forward to helping again there.  Having said that, the highlight of this trip was having the chance to give SG a bath.  He has discovered the joy of moving his little limbs and they didn’t stop threshing throughout his little wash.

We also had a relatively warm and dry evening for a wedding party in Kew in west London with some past neighbours of ours.  It was a lovely celebration of their wedding – some 14 years after first meeting – held in their garden with opportunities to meet a number of other old friends from our time in Kew.  The drinking started early and finished very late and I can’t remember when I last had such a bad hangover as a souvenir of an entertaining evening.

I have had to pick and choose my moments for local walks in the sunshine.  On one of those sunny days, Jane and I went to a couple of National Garden Scheme open gardens a couple of valleys away from our home.  One of these was very good; the other, not so much.  But regardless of the quality, it is always interesting to see a slightly different part of the Stroud Valleys and to have a nose about in someone else’s back yard.

National Gardens Scheme Gardens In France Lynch, Gloucestershire

Most importantly, despite the gloomy BBC weather forecast for the weekend, we had good, chilly but bright weather for our latest trip to Edinburgh to see First Grandchild (FG) and his parents.  As usual, we were treated to great hospitality, FG was on fine form and Edinburgh was full of interesting things to do. 

Little Boy, Big Gunnera In The Royal Botanic Gardens, Edinburgh

In between our compliance with FG’s constant demands to ‘play a little bit’ we visited a few art exhibitions, took FG as usual to the outstanding Royal Botanic Gardens and National Museum of Scotland, walked the streets of Stockbridge and along the Water of Leith, popped into our favourite bar (Spry) and had a lively evening out with FG eating pizza at MILK.

Beyond the wonderful entrance hall of the National Portrait Gallery of Scotland was a recent rehanging of the main hall of portraits that focused on modern portrait creation.  Many of the paintings and photographs were new to me and several were impressive.  The gallery is quiet, compact and one of my favourites.

Portrait Of John Burnside (Scottish Poet) By Alan J Lawson, National Portrait Gallery, Edinburgh

We also visited the National Gallery of Scotland.  Walking to it across Princes Street gave us a great view of the hordes of ‘’Swifties’ heading off by bus and tram to Murrayfield for one of three concerts Taylor Swift was holding over the weekend.  The sun was shining but there was a cool wind.  I felt sympathy for the majority of fans who had diligently dressed up in extravagant boots and light sparkly skirts and tops – as Swifties apparently do – given the expectation of a big drop in temperature while they queued to get back into town after the concert and night drew in.

The Current Royal Scottish Academy Annual Exhibition At The National Gallery Of Scotland

In the gallery was a showpiece ‘national treasure’: a painting by Vermeer that had been put on special show to commemorate the 200th year of the National Gallery.  It is lovely of course but we spent most of our time in the new gallery extension and among the pictures by The Glasgow Boys (and Girls).  The new gallery is a wonderful, light space with great views (see below) and, on a Friday, not crowded despite the multitude outside waiting to get to see Taylor Swift. 

To complete our cultural ride, we visited a lovely little exhibition in Leith.  This was in an old, small but elegant building – an ex-pharmacy apparently – owned by Mote102 as a charming pop-up space for shops and artists.  It had been partially restored so that some of its original (Georgian or Victorian) features were visible and it was a good fit for the work on show. 

Works By Gail Turpin At Mote102, Leith

The artist on show – and present for a short talk – is an old acquaintance of Jane’s called Gail Turpin.  Jane had found out that she was now based in Edinburgh from the bride at the wedding celebration we had attended a couple of weeks previously.  All three, and a few other friends, went on an eventful holiday in Greece a few decades ago. 

After Jane had reminisced with Gail about that, I perused the textiles and drawing on show and then left Jane to the talk while I found a small present for FG and parked myself in Spry Wine Bar.

Another Part of Gail Turpin’s Exhibition, Leith

We travelled to and from Edinburgh by train this time.  That had its benefits; the journey was an hour shorter despite a train cancellation and we had booked seats so it was a relaxed journey.  Train cancellations are not so frustrating when one is retired and there aren’t meetings to get to ad hard deadlines to meet.  Also, while in Edinburgh, Jane didn’t have to keep thinking about moving the car to avoid parking restrictions (I rarely get involved in this aspect), we avoided car parking costs and didn’t have to worry about charging the car up. 

Waverley Railway Station, Edinburgh

However, despite the avoidance of car parking costs, the train is a more expensive option.  Also, it seems that, on this occasion, there was a hidden downside in that the packed train was carrying the coronavirus.  Jane caught it and has had a few rough days as a result.  Fortunately, for the second time when Jane has had Covid, I seem to have dodged the bullet.  Lucky me not (so far) to have never caught the dreaded Covid when so many others have!

Sunny Belgium

Jane and I spent a few days in Belgium.  We had visited Antwerp several years ago and had been surprised at how much there had been to see and how interesting the city was.  We wanted to see a couple of different Belgian cities this time and to travel by train.  We booked the Eurostar to Brussels with an included ticket on to Ghent with the intention of also visiting Bruges.  Jane booked an impressive, centrally located hotel in a building with an interesting history; we were all set.

Ghent Post Office (Designed 1898) Now Shops And Our Hotel For A Few Days

The UK train workers dispute disrupted our journey to London and we decided to drive to Jane’s sister in Teddington, and impose on her our need for a lift to the Tube.  Fortunately, the Eurostar was on time, comfortable and smooth.  The onward journey to Ghent in a double level carriage was especially comfortable as we accidentally sat in the first-class upper deck and had great views of the Belgian countryside.  Taxis seemed absent at the station but the tram into the centre of town was easy to navigate and a bit of a novelty.

1898 The Post– A Moody Looking Hotel

We settled into our hotel room and then relaxed into Ghent’s late afternoon sunshine with a stroll around the northern bend of the River Leie and past the Castle of the Counts.  We ended up at a sunny, packed bar overlooking the river and indulged in our first taste of local Belgian beer. 

‘Gravensteen’ – Castle Of The Counts, Ghent

We also had our first taste of Belgian beef – I confess that I ate more beef in our three days in Belgium than I think I have in the last three years.  When in Belgium….. 

We made our way back to the hotel for an early night (very early given the UK-Belgium time difference) and resolved to make an early start for Bruges the following morning.

View From Outside Our Hotel Including St Michiels Kerk

The rail journey to Bruges was again easy and comfortable.  Once in the city, we just walked around in lovely October sunshine for a while, just taking in the gorgeous juxtaposition of medieval architecture and the river and canal network.  Of course, there were hordes of tourists many of which were participating in large guided tours led by guides with little flag poles; not my cup of tea!

Me And Other Tourists Capturing The Sights In The Centre Of Bruges

We shuffled out of the main flows of these tours into peaceful side streets and quiet corners.  Wherever we looked we saw pretty bridges, attractive buildings with the traditional stepped parapet walls, and an overall sense of cleanliness and history.

Starting To Get Away From The Bruges Crowd

We walked north to a vegan café, Blackbird, that Jane had discovered online, for a well-earned brunch.  We had what turned out to be my favourite breakfast or our brief Belgian holiday; an acai bowl laden with fruit, yogurt and peanut butter accompanied by a wonderful cup of coffee.  I’m a nut butter convert now!

The ‘Blackbird’ Cafe In Typical Bruges Buildings

We continued to wander along the canal paths past stunning buildings and back to the city centre.  On our way we popped into the Bourgogne des Flandres Brewery for a local brew, a quick rest and a view of boats going up and down the waterways.  Then we pressed on to visit the 800-year old Belfort (Belfry) to learn more about the city and get a elevated panorama.  

Belfort, Bruges

The belfry dominates the main square of the city and required a 366-stair climb to get to its top.  On the way up is a Treasury with its artifacts and a lot of information about the city and, especially, the way the bells in the tower were used to signal peace or danger. 

Near the top we could enter a floor where the belfry carillon with its 47 bells sits.  It was installed in 1748 and has been repeatedly extended and restored.  It is like a huge musical box with a large cylinder with pins that cause the bells to ring in a particular sequence that can also be set by a keyboard.  We were able to see it working although the chiming of the bells is best heard from outside. 

The Carillon, Belfort, Bruges

At the very top floor of the belfry, the views were predictably spectacular. 

From The Belfort, Bruges

We resumed our wander through Bruges’s streets while skirting the densest crowds and made our way to Saint Saviour’s Cathedral, also known as Sint-Salvatorskathedraal.  This is a beautiful, airy space with a huge nave, impressive tapestries and remarkably vibrant stained glass. 

Saint Saviour’s Cathedral, Bruges

As with several of the historic buildings we visited whilst in Belgium, there was a Treasury.  This one had several lovely pieces on show. 

The Saint Saviour’s Cathedral Treasury

By now we were beginning to think again about beer and food.  We walked back towards the north end of the city centre and found a delightful waterside bar (it was hard to know if the waterways were river or canal but here the water was flowing and not at all smelly).  The sky was cloudless and the temperature, view and atmosphere was so perfect that we settled down for a lengthy session of beer and more beef – a very nice steak and chips this time.

Bruges’s Waterways

Replete, we decided we had had a lovely but sufficient Bruges experience.  Our phone batteries were low – I’d forgotten to bring my remote charger and Google Maps is such a battery suck.  Jane had to start asking passers-by for directions (I would rather use the position of the sun than ask anyone the way!)  Finally, a circuitous route took us back to the station, the return journey to Ghent and another early night in our hotel there to prepare us for a couple of days of Ghent sight-seeing.