Art, Gardens and a Big Anniversary

Our time in Edinburgh – the bread on either side of our Fife sandwich filling – was busy. 

We did some of the usual things with First Grandchild (FG); going to the playground, visiting the National Museum of Scotland and meeting his hopeful requests: ‘can you play with me?’. 

Playing Cards With First Grandchild (FG)
Playing Cards With First Grandchild (FG)

We also went to the Museum Of Childhood for the first time.  FG loved the activities available and we liked the nostalgia of seeing the toys from our own childhoods and those of our sons.  Entrance to the museum was free and we will definitely be going back with FG.

Construction Toys From My Youth Including Betta Builder, My Favourite
A Display of Toys From My Youth At The Edinburgh Museum Of Childhood, Including Betta Bilda, One Of My Favourites

FG also had a tremendous time at the Newhailes Gardens and Adventure Park near Musselburgh.  This is owned by the Scottish National Trust and is a wonderful facility.  I wandered the grounds while FG loved all the activities.  I then joined him to build towers, and to watch him get some experience of sack and egg and spoon races.

Newhailes House, Front And Back
Newhailes House, Front And Back

We did spend some time away from our Edinburgh family so they could get back to something resembling their routine.  A huge highlight of this was a visit to the Andy Goldsworthy exhibition at the National Gallery of Scotland.  Based on reviews I had seen, I was expecting great things and it truly was an excellent display.  The exhibition was so good, I’ll cover our visit in a separate blog post after this one.

Jane and I visited a few other galleries while in Edinburgh.  In the basement of the National Gallery was an exhibition of work by Paul Furneaux who we know our Eldest Son admires.  I liked his paintings too.

'Temple Path' By Paul Furneaux At the Scottish National Gallery
‘Temple Path’ By Paul Furneaux At the Scottish National Gallery

Furneaux also featured in the Open Eye Gallery which is always worth visiting as was The Scottish Gallery opposite.  The latter had an exhibition of paintings by Alexander Goudie who I enjoyed getting to know a bit.

Another Painting BY Paul Furneuax, This Time At The Open Eye Gallery, Edinburgh
Another Painting By Paul Furneuax (‘Rain City’), This Time At The Open Eye Gallery, Edinburgh

One afternoon, I slipped off and went to a free show of Post-Modern art at the City Art Centre.  A little embarrassingly, I got told off for taking a photo here (see below, top) – I just didn’t see the signs prohibiting photography.  Otherwise, my visit was very satisfactory as previous shows there have been.  I particularly enjoyed the rather macabre painting by John Bellany of men gutting fish (also below).  Bellany had a separate (but not free) exhibition at the centre but I didn’t pop in.

Scottish Post Modern Art At The City Art Centre, Edinburgh
Scottish Post Modern Art At The City Art Centre, Edinburgh

Jane and I also visited the Scottish National Gallery of Modern Art briefly to see three or four rooms of works by Louise Bourgeois, Robert Mapplethorpe and Helen Chadwick.  This was mildly diverting but only Bourgeois’s spider, which we had both seen variants of before at the Hayward Gallery in London, and the famous photo of Mapplethorpe’s disembodied head (see below) left much of an impression  on me.

Beyond the art and beyond Edinburgh, we also took some time out to explore some gardens.  Recalling these visits now reminds me that I failed to mention in my last blog post a very pleasant hour or so spent in the St Andrews Botanic Garden during our time in Fife.  It was a longer walk out of the St Andrews town centre than we expected but well worth a visit to see a rather wild and experimental garden that is investigating how gardens, and the insects that live in them, can cope with our changing climate. Semi-wild gardens, busy with insect life, can be very attractive at this time of year.

St Andrews Botanic Gardens
St Andrews Botanic Gardens

Now we travelled south from Edinburgh to the Pentland Hills and Tweed Valley to Dawyck Botanic Garden.  This is a 65-acre arboretum with a lot of mature indigenous trees and a large number planted using seed collected a couple of centuries ago in America by a traveller called David Douglas.  He met a sticky end in Hawaii after falling into an animal trap already occupied by a bull, but his legacy at Dawyck is impressive. 

Dawyck Botanic Garden
Dawyck Botanic Garden, Scottish Borders

The setting is lovely with gorgeous views across heavily wooded valleys to open hillsides beyond.  It would be worth visiting again in Spring when more of the azaleas and rhododendrons are in flower.

We then went on to  Little Sparta, the home and garden of Scottish poet and artist Ian Hamilton Finlay whose work I have often seen in various places in and around Edinburgh including, during this visit, the City Art Centre. This year is the centenary of his birth.

Little Sparta
Little Sparta, South Lanarkshire

The garden is in the middle of nowhere.  It is both a little chaotic and very sweet.  Throughout the garden are little paths and about 200 individual art works from golden heads to simple inscriptions and stone sculptures.  I particularly liked the open area beyond the wooded garden which included an attractive lake.

Little Sparta
Little Sparta

Of course, we ate and drank well while in Edinburgh as usual.  A highlight was a drink at the Newbarns Brewery and Taproom followed by an excellent dinner at Ardfern.  We will be going to both (and Ardfern’s sister restaurants) again.

Our stay in Edinburgh was completed with a rather splendid lunch at Timberyard.  This was with our extended Edinburgh family including ES’s wife’s parents and was to celebrate Jane and my 40th wedding anniversary.  FG provided the rubies from his toy treasure chest and then got on with some drawing, leaving us to enjoy a splendid three courses.  The restaurant is a lovely space and the service and food are top notch. 

Timberyard, Edinburgh
Timberyard, Edinburgh

ES’s wife asked what advice we had, given we have achieved 40 married years together.  I mumbled something about needing patience to adjust as circumstances and each partner change at different times.  I’m not sure if retirement brings a requirement for more patience.  Certainly, intermittent contact with grandchildren and no work to worry about allows much more time to think about getting along than full blown parental childcare and employment ever did!

We took our time over Timberyard’s food but there was still time to take in England Woman’s Football Team winning the European Championship after extra time and penalties.  It was a thrilling end to a lovely week and a half in Scotland.

A Wedding and a Birthday

Amid much happiness, our Eldest Son (ES) and his partner were married a couple of weekends ago.  Long-Suffering Wife (LSW) and I had a lovely time in Edinburgh celebrating this huge event with them.  What made it extra special for us was that ES and his (now) wife pared down the events of the weekend to a very intimate affair.  Everyone who took part was someone very close to the marrying couple.  That meant that every conversation with everyone in attendance felt meaningful.

The Happy Threesome!

The Registry Office was a grand building with pleasantly decorated rooms and an overseer of the process who achieved the right balance of formality and relaxed bonhomie.  First Grandchild (FG), was rather unwell but nonetheless, was well behaved, wasn’t sick on anyone’s dress and loved playing with the room’s long curtains.  ES looked smart and the bride looked stunning.  As they shared their home-made vows, my tears welled up; their personalisation of the exchange was really moving.

A Touch Of Unseasonable Hayfever?

Later in the afternoon and well into the evening, a wedding reception was held at the married couple’s new flat.  The flat looked great and was just the right size for a party of about 30 enthusiastic relatives and friends.  A few of the latter were fellow new parents who brought contemporaries of FG which added to the lovely, informal conviviality.  Everyone was very happy.

Lovely Wedding Reception Table Layout In The Married Couple’s Flat

The mantelpieces and tables had been beautifully decorated and set out by ES’s new parents in law.   The caterers knew what they were doing (they had been under close instruction from ES’s wife), the food was excellent, and the drinks and conversation flowed.  FG was excited by the hubbub and rallied at the important moments to be giggling sweetness itself, despite his illness.  The speeches were short and heartfelt and the intimacy of the event shone throughout.  We loved it – not only the fact that ES was now married, but that he and his new wife (especially!) had organised what seemed to be an ideal way of doing it.

First Grandchild (FG) Checking The Wedding Presents

On the following day, we refreshed with a sunny morning walk around the Royal Botanic Garden and then met up with a very small number of close relatives for a wonderful lunch at Timberyard.  LSW and I had been there once before and had been very impressed by the food, decor and ambience.  We were very impressed again.  It was the centrepiece to another lovely day.

Walking In Sunny Royal Botanic Gardens, Edinburgh With Youngest And Middle Sons And Their Partners

My Dad and sister went back to rest at their hotel.  It had been marvellous that they had been able to come and they had made the most of their visit to Edinburgh by taking in a couple of art exhibitions as well as the wedding events.  Meanwhile, LSW and I retreated to the Air BnB that we had rented for ourselves, our Middle and Youngest Son and their partners.  There, we allowed our emotions to settle quietly in front of a second rate romantic comedy and assorted crisps.  What a couple of days!

And then the fun went on!  The Monday following the wedding was FG’s first birthday.  Unfortunately FG was still unwell and relatively subdued but he enjoyed early use of some of the presents and a trip to one of the local playgrounds.  Unlike him, we will remember his first birthday for ever.

Wedding Cake Cleverly Converting To Birthday Cake (FG Loves Penguins!)

We left Edinburgh late that afternoon leaving ES and wife to ponder how to manage FG’s illness while both are holding down a job working from home on the back of little sleep.  At that point we assumed that the conundrum they faced would be only for a day or two – it turned out to be another week.  Oh, the joys of parenthood!

Meanwhile, LSW and I set off for Dunkeld on the River Tay, on the southern edge of the Highlands for rather more rest and relaxation than the newly married couple were going to get.

Sun Setting On Edinburgh