A Different Way In Edinburgh

We are booked for a month into a very comfortable, nicely warm and well-furnished Airbnb in central Edinburgh that has a view of the Castle.  Our idea has been to try a model for visiting Edinburgh that is different from our usual 3-4 night stays with Eldest Son, wife and First Grandchild.  In part it is just an extended holiday, but in part a test as to how we might find living more permanently in this wonderful city.

Sunrise Over Edinburgh Castle From Our Airbnb

The first two weeks have been extremely successful – until a bit of a disaster yesterday; more on that later. 

We have already visited lots of Edinburgh sights – the museums, cathedrals, galleries and exhibitions – got into the hinterlands of Edinburgh and, of course, done a bit of grandchild entertainment.  Were lucky enough to have a double dose of grandchildren when Middle Son, his fiancée and Second Grandchild visited us on our second weekend.  That visit, plus the nature of the intermittent contact with First Grandchild over a longer period than usual, has created a bit of a feel of living here rather than just holidaying here. 

Edinburgh From The Top Of The National Museum of Scotland

No doubt that feeling would have been further enhanced by Youngest Son and his wife being able to join us as planned on our first weekend in Edinburgh.  Unfortunately, Storm Eowyn put paid to that.  Their flight was cancelled and Edinburgh was all but shut down during the worst if the storm.  Even at the end of the storm, the gusts of wind were strong enough to knock me off my feet!

Because of, first, Storm Eowyn, and then a visit from Middle Son and family, we have tended to eat in rather than out.  However, we have sampled a couple of our favourite bars and a few cafés, and we love the local pub (Teuchters).  Anyway, there are two more weeks for trying some more recommended restaurants. 

Another View of Edinburgh Castle From Flodden Wall

Cooking in a holiday home is not new to us but doing so most evenings over a few weeks is another way of generating a feeling of being ‘home from home’ rather than just being on holiday.  Next week, we are even entertaining Eldest Son’s parents in law.  That will be a further novelty but a nice reflection of how things might be if we moved to Edinburgh more permanently.

Edinburgh Views (Great Weather!)

During our days here, we have been very active.  We have, of course, sampled the normal delights of the Royal Botanic Garden the Scottish National Portrait Gallery, the Modern Art Gallery of Scotland the Scottish National Gallery and the National Museum of Scotland.  Edinburgh is a capital and has public buildings, exhibitions and collections to match that status.  There were new exhibitions in all of the galleries and all were a pleasure to visit – although it was sad to see the Storm Eowyn damage in the Botanic Gardens.

Storm Damage – One Of The Largest Cedars In The Royal Botanic Gardens Has Gone

The Scottish National Gallery is celebrating 40 years of its photography collection and curation.  Photography is not my favourite art form but it was good to see some pictures by some famous photographers (such as Robert Mapplethorpe, Annie Liebovitz, and Lee Miller) among the often gritty, local Scottish fare.

40 Year Celebration Of Scottish Photography Collection – Including The Iconic Lennon/Ono Photo

The Modern Art Gallery continues to show the substantial Everlyn Nicodemus exhibition which I saw on our last Edinburgh visit.  I sped through that but perhaps somehow enjoyed it a little more on a second viewing; plus, there are several other works in the gallery’s permanent collection I had not focused on before.

‘After the Birth’ By Everlyn Nicodemus

The Scottish National Gallery had a sequel to an exhibition of JMW Turner watercolours that I had seen in the gallery two years previously.  That had shown the section of the Henry Vaughan collection of Turner watercolours that had been bequeathed to Scotland.  This new exhibition was of the selection of watercolours bequeathed to Northern Ireland that again, as part of conditions of the donation, can only be shown to the public in January. 

Turner Watercolours at the National Gallery of Scotland

There were no surprises in the collection of blurry seascapes, sunrises, sunsets and mountain valleys shrouded in mist.  But I like Turner’s style and enjoyed the viewing despite the long queues to get in.

Also at the National Gallery was a small exhibition of art inspired by the landscape of the Orkneys, called ‘In Orcadia’ and including large, interestingly constructed paintings by Samantha Clark

The ‘In Orcadia’ Exhibition

That was good but even better, I thought, was the large exhibition of paintings by the Royal Scottish Society of Painters in Watercolour.  There were hundreds of paintings on show and of course, not all hit the spot for me.  But overall, I thought the quality was very high and I could imagine several on my living room wall.

We also went to diverse art exhibitions at Dovecote Studios and the City Art Centre.  At Dovecote we saw textiles and paintings by Ptolemy Mann.  The designs were colourful and bold but Jane was a little disappointed that the majority of the textiles were manufactured in India not Scotland. 

Dovecote Studios And Ptolemy Mann Artwork

At the City Art Centre were two exhibitions of modern Scottish art and of pop art; I liked the pots by Lara Scobie at the former and the typically irreverent set of cartoonish watercolours by the seemingly slightly unhinged, David Shrigley.

Works By Lara Scobie and David Shrigley At The City Art Centre, Edinburgh

We made a couple of trips to the National Museum of Scotland.  The first to see some of the displays that we don’t get much of a chance to see when accompanied by First Grandchild.  The second was with him; his increasingly calm inquisitiveness was a joy to participate in.

One concept we discussed, as we passed some of the dinosaur and wild animal exhibits, was that of skeletons.  Subsequent conversations indicate that he understood how creatures often have skeletons and that you can’t see until after they are dead.  It’s fascinating to watch children learn.

Everything From Dinosaurs To Hi-Tech On Show At The National Museum of Scotland

And now we come to the misfortune of yesterday….. Apart from Storm Eowyn, the weather during our stay has been largely dry and sunny.  However, it has also been cold and yesterday morning my wife, Jane, slipped on some ice and, it turned out, broke her shoulder.  The pictures of x-rays that we came away from the hospital with have helped First Grandchild understand the importance of bones but there is no other upside to the accident. 

We’ll cope and enjoy the rest of our stay in Edinburgh but plans regarding how are changing……

A Birthday and Christmas Prep

Having grandchildren coming to stay with us at Christmas has added a higher than ever level of expectation of fun around the festive period.  I keep envisaging their excitement when the big day comes.  For example, I’m looking forward to the wonderment of First Grandchild (who is now three years old) when the sherry, mince pie and carrots we will leave out for Father Christmas and his reindeer disappear overnight, to be replaced by present-filled stockings.  We are ready!

But first, the last few weeks have contained much enjoyment of different kinds.  First there was FG’s third birthday and a visit to Edinburgh to share in that.  Then we had friends from London staying with us, followed by a choral concert in the nearby town of Tetbury and a test of our grandparenting skills while looking after Second Grandchild unsupervised. 

In between, there has been preparation for Christmas, a bit of physiotherapy for my knee, wrapping up of my volunteering duties for the year at the local school and food bank, and the writing of a draft Parish Nature Action Plan for the Parish Council.  It’s not work but it’s felt quite busy.

As usual, we loved our time in Edinburgh.  The trip up in the car was pretty smooth (though the freezing cold weather slowing operation of some of the electric vehicle chargers on the way back was problematic).

Freezing Weather On The Way South From Edinburgh – Lovely To See But Limiting On EV Battery Capacity And Charging Rates!

Once in Edinburgh, the hospitality Eldest Son (ES) and his wife lay on was as lovely as ever and further enhanced by their newly refurbished kitchen.  It was great too to see ES’s parents in law, as we usually do, over a big Indian takeaway.  We got out and about to see some of the sights that are now becoming familiar to us.  Plus, of course, the centrepiece of our visit was FG’s birthday party.

Happy Birthday Boy

FG’s birthday party was shared with that of his best male friend and it was very successful.  The bouncy castle was very popular and FG spent a lot of time on that.  There were a variety of other toys and activities around the room and these were also well used.  The brutal beating of a Piñata in the form of a cardboard donkey full of sweets felt a little incongruous and unsettling but was a highlight for the birthday boys.  For the adults, there were a few beers to provide some relaxation amid the hubbub of the kids scurrying around and the simple, raw excitement in the room.

Along The Water Of Leith Near Dean Village, Edinburgh

I skipped out of some of the post-party clearing up to watch Forest Green Rovers Football Club play (and win!) a vital top-of-the-table game on the television.  I also skipped out on one, sunny afternoon to walk down the Water of Leith to Dean Village and then to the Modern Art Galleries

View From Outside Modern One Gallery, Edinburgh

At Modern One gallery (there are two separate national galleries of modern art) I saw an exhibition by Everlyn Nicodemus.  It was a larger exhibition than I expected (especially given that it was free) and, by the end, I was also surprised by its variety.  I can’t confess to have been moved much by the work but a lot of it was wonderfully colourful and vibrant.  The whole experience of walking around the exhibition with so few others was quietly pleasing. It always seems worthwhile visiting Edinburgh’s art galleries.

Some Of The Colourful Paintings By Everlyn Nicodemus

We also always seem to make time to take FG to the Royal Botanic Garden and the National Museum of Scotland.  The Botanic Gardens are great year-round and FG likes the visits to the café there.   FG also loves both seeing the exhibits at the National Museum – especially the natural history section – and getting to and from it on the bus.  Watching FG’s mind take in all the sights in the museum is very rewarding and I never tire of going there.

Natural History Hall At The National Museum Of Scotland

Next month we are visiting Edinburgh again and, this time, for a month.  It will be a very different experience our usual long weekends with ES and his wife.  I hope the Air BnB we have chosen is as good as it looks. 

Although the weather is bound to be wintery, our stay will, at one level, feel like an extended holiday and we will be a couple of tourists taking in the sights again.  But, on another level, it is a bit of a trial run for seeing if we would like to move more substantially to Edinburgh.  We are both excited by the prospect of spending more time in the city; Edinburgh is such a wonderful place and being near ES’s family for a few weeks will enable a different relationship with all of them, at least temporarily.

Back home, we entertained our London guests with extended chat, Jane’s cooking, plenty of drink, a lunch at The Woolpack Inn in Slad (in our opinion, the best local pub food) and a walk by the Severn to see the Purton Hulks

Along The Canal Walk Towards The Severn And The Purton Hulks

These ‘hulks’ are boats deliberately run ashore and filled with debris and concrete to form a barrier between the tidal Severn River and the adjacent canal.  They create a rather ghostly atmosphere and an interesting historical distraction from the huge views up and down the Severn estuary.

One Of The Purton Hulks Overlooking The Severn Estuary (Tide Out)

Our entertaining skills were also tested when we looked after Second Grandchild (SG) for a few hours while Middle Son and his fiancée went out for lunch – their first outing together without SG since he arrived.  It turned out to be a breeze.  SG seemed curious about us substituting for his parents but calm and quietly playful.  When he refused to have a nap in his nursery, I took him out in his buggy.  While we were out, he was attentive to his surroundings, regarded me with apparent interest and occasional smiles, and then gently fell asleep.  What a pleasure retirement is when one can do things like that with a grandchild!

Now Christmas is approaching.  To get in the mood we went to a choral concert in a very Christmassy Tetbury.  The concert was in the main church which is very spacious and dominated by rows of high, enclosed pews.  The church looked marvellous with so many candles lit on huge chandeliers and elsewhere, and the concert sounded great when the choir was in full blooded flow. 

The Standish Consort And Ensemble La Notte at St Mary’s Church, Tetbury

Now we look forward to our sons arriving for Christmas.  Youngest Son arrives later today (unfortunately without new wife who is bound to Belfast by their dog for this trip).  Then Eldest Son’s entourage arrives next week before Middle Son, his fiancée and SG arrive on Christmas Eve.  The semi-planned Christmas schedule is full of fun and games, walks and meals, Secret Santa, and sitting around the wood-burner and kitchen playing and chatting with the little ones and adults alike. 

Now I have retired and I have no background (or foreground!) thoughts of work to contend with during the festive period, I can focus on all of the above.  It’s a treat and a luxury.

Slivers of Summer

Overall, the weather during the last few weeks has been rather disappointing.  The meadow grass in our field that usually waves gently in sunlight at this time of year has, instead, collapsed in the windy wet.  The cool and damp spring and early summer has meant growth of vegetable seedlings has been slow.  Many have been eradicated by slugs and snails who have revelled in the damp conditions.  Fortunately, there have been several lovely days of sun and some of those have been when it has mattered most. 

Roses In Rain: Along The Permissive Footpath Through Ruskin Mill Into Town

For example, we had a lovely sunny afternoon during which we were able to visit Second Grandchild (SG) in Bristol and to help his parents with their garden.  We got a lot done – though there is more potential to fill the vegetable and flower beds with a bit of home produce and colour and we look forward to helping again there.  Having said that, the highlight of this trip was having the chance to give SG a bath.  He has discovered the joy of moving his little limbs and they didn’t stop threshing throughout his little wash.

We also had a relatively warm and dry evening for a wedding party in Kew in west London with some past neighbours of ours.  It was a lovely celebration of their wedding – some 14 years after first meeting – held in their garden with opportunities to meet a number of other old friends from our time in Kew.  The drinking started early and finished very late and I can’t remember when I last had such a bad hangover as a souvenir of an entertaining evening.

I have had to pick and choose my moments for local walks in the sunshine.  On one of those sunny days, Jane and I went to a couple of National Garden Scheme open gardens a couple of valleys away from our home.  One of these was very good; the other, not so much.  But regardless of the quality, it is always interesting to see a slightly different part of the Stroud Valleys and to have a nose about in someone else’s back yard.

National Gardens Scheme Gardens In France Lynch, Gloucestershire

Most importantly, despite the gloomy BBC weather forecast for the weekend, we had good, chilly but bright weather for our latest trip to Edinburgh to see First Grandchild (FG) and his parents.  As usual, we were treated to great hospitality, FG was on fine form and Edinburgh was full of interesting things to do. 

Little Boy, Big Gunnera In The Royal Botanic Gardens, Edinburgh

In between our compliance with FG’s constant demands to ‘play a little bit’ we visited a few art exhibitions, took FG as usual to the outstanding Royal Botanic Gardens and National Museum of Scotland, walked the streets of Stockbridge and along the Water of Leith, popped into our favourite bar (Spry) and had a lively evening out with FG eating pizza at MILK.

Beyond the wonderful entrance hall of the National Portrait Gallery of Scotland was a recent rehanging of the main hall of portraits that focused on modern portrait creation.  Many of the paintings and photographs were new to me and several were impressive.  The gallery is quiet, compact and one of my favourites.

Portrait Of John Burnside (Scottish Poet) By Alan J Lawson, National Portrait Gallery, Edinburgh

We also visited the National Gallery of Scotland.  Walking to it across Princes Street gave us a great view of the hordes of ‘’Swifties’ heading off by bus and tram to Murrayfield for one of three concerts Taylor Swift was holding over the weekend.  The sun was shining but there was a cool wind.  I felt sympathy for the majority of fans who had diligently dressed up in extravagant boots and light sparkly skirts and tops – as Swifties apparently do – given the expectation of a big drop in temperature while they queued to get back into town after the concert and night drew in.

The Current Royal Scottish Academy Annual Exhibition At The National Gallery Of Scotland

In the gallery was a showpiece ‘national treasure’: a painting by Vermeer that had been put on special show to commemorate the 200th year of the National Gallery.  It is lovely of course but we spent most of our time in the new gallery extension and among the pictures by The Glasgow Boys (and Girls).  The new gallery is a wonderful, light space with great views (see below) and, on a Friday, not crowded despite the multitude outside waiting to get to see Taylor Swift. 

To complete our cultural ride, we visited a lovely little exhibition in Leith.  This was in an old, small but elegant building – an ex-pharmacy apparently – owned by Mote102 as a charming pop-up space for shops and artists.  It had been partially restored so that some of its original (Georgian or Victorian) features were visible and it was a good fit for the work on show. 

Works By Gail Turpin At Mote102, Leith

The artist on show – and present for a short talk – is an old acquaintance of Jane’s called Gail Turpin.  Jane had found out that she was now based in Edinburgh from the bride at the wedding celebration we had attended a couple of weeks previously.  All three, and a few other friends, went on an eventful holiday in Greece a few decades ago. 

After Jane had reminisced with Gail about that, I perused the textiles and drawing on show and then left Jane to the talk while I found a small present for FG and parked myself in Spry Wine Bar.

Another Part of Gail Turpin’s Exhibition, Leith

We travelled to and from Edinburgh by train this time.  That had its benefits; the journey was an hour shorter despite a train cancellation and we had booked seats so it was a relaxed journey.  Train cancellations are not so frustrating when one is retired and there aren’t meetings to get to ad hard deadlines to meet.  Also, while in Edinburgh, Jane didn’t have to keep thinking about moving the car to avoid parking restrictions (I rarely get involved in this aspect), we avoided car parking costs and didn’t have to worry about charging the car up. 

Waverley Railway Station, Edinburgh

However, despite the avoidance of car parking costs, the train is a more expensive option.  Also, it seems that, on this occasion, there was a hidden downside in that the packed train was carrying the coronavirus.  Jane caught it and has had a few rough days as a result.  Fortunately, for the second time when Jane has had Covid, I seem to have dodged the bullet.  Lucky me not (so far) to have never caught the dreaded Covid when so many others have!

Family Stuff

The month leading up to my birthday last weekend was dominated by family events.  We visited Eldest Son (ES) and his family in Edinburgh, we have had several visits to, and by, Middle Son (MS) with his fiancée and new baby, and we have had a visit from Youngest Son (YS) and his fiancée.  Also, my Dad and my sister were able to visit us and to meet up with the new (great) grandchild; it was amazing to have four generations together.

4 Generations Together

Our trip to Edinburgh was focused on our most extended period of baby-sitting yet.  While ES and his wife spent a few days in Spain attending a wedding in a hotel overlooking incredible coastal cliffs in Ibiza, we did our best to entertain First Grandchild (FG).  

The first two days of that were delightful.  FG had been fully prepared by his parents for their absence.  There was only one time in those first two days when we got a sense that, under his effervescent demeanor, he was having to be brave in doing without them.  That was when Jane showed FG a picture on her phone of his Mum enjoying the Spanish sun.  I saw his lower lip quiver briefly with regret before he recovered his equilibrium with the familiar request to “lets play”. 

As usual, FG loved visiting the Royal Botanic Garden (above), the National Museum of Scotland, the private garden that local residents share access to, cafes selling juice and cake, and pizza at Franca Manca.  He slept like a log in between.

Another highlight was taking FG to a birthday party for a little boy of one of his Mum’s friends.  This was a pirate themed party and FG had been kitted out with what turned out to be the best costume at the party (courtesy of a £5 purchase on Ebay I believe).  FG was easily the youngest at the party and he found it a little overwhelming after a while, but we all had a good time on a lovely sunny day.

First Grandchild As A Jolly Pirate (Without His Splendid Pirate Hat!)

Unfortunately, the last day of our baby minding was dominated by FG falling ill.  In between his physical sickness he was subdued but seemed to recover.  But poor Jane was holding him each of the four times he was sick.  She quickly became very acquainted with the washing machine and tumble dryer and we had some extended viewings of the film ‘Madagascar’ while having quiet time with FG on the sofa. 

Circus Lane, Edinburgh. It’s A Lovely City We Can Still Envisage Us Living In At Some Point

It was only after we had returned home, and heard that his now returned Mum had caught the same bug and was quite ill, that we realised how lucky we had been fortunate enough to ‘dodge that bullet’.  Having done so, we look back on the Edinburgh visit with a lot of pleasure and also pride in FG’s resilience in the face of his parents’ absence and then his sickness.  Of course, we are his grandparents so we are bound to say it: he is wonderful!

Also wonderful is Second Grandchild (SG).  It’s a treat to have the opportunity to have him relatively close by and so see him relatively frequently.  Its great too to see how his parents are doting on him despite the challenges of new parenthood (primarily sleep deprivation!)  They are coping with those well.  Certainly, SG’s smiles suggest he is very happy and we love seeing and holding him.

Son And Dad, Eye Contact and Smiles

Youngest Son (YS) popped over to England for a photo shoot and his fiancée joined us for a lovely, long weekend during which they were able to meet SG for the first time.  One of YS’s Australian friends, now based in London, was able to join us.  He, YS and I spent several hours watching football on the Saturday – first in the pub, then live at Forest Green Rovers (their last game in another miserable season which has seen us relegated for the second time in succession), and then on the telly back at home.  Meanwhile, Jane and YS’s fiancée cooked and baked to replenish MS and his partners’ freezer with ready meals and cakes to enable their focus on their new baby.  Everyone happy!

Looking Across Buttercups Towards Forest Green Rovers’ The New Lawn Stadium (On The Horizon, On The Right)

YS and partner are very busy with work in Belfast but they are also finding time to visit Edinburgh in a month or so.  It is so heart-warming to see the brothers together, with their partners, and, now, with nephews to hold and play with.  We are lucky that they all get on with each other despite, or perhaps because of, their different characteristics. 

We are lucky too that so much of our time can be taken up with looking at videos on WhatsApp that the different branches of the family send us showing their young lives, and with planning of more visits to Bristol, Belfast and Edinburgh to experience all this family stuff first hand.  Edinburgh is already planned in for June and we haven’t given up on getting to Belfast again before YS’s September wedding there…….

New Year, New Trip

We chose Belfast rather than Edinburgh for Christmas but I couldn’t wait to see First Grandchild (FG) again and so we pitched up in Edinburgh early in January.  The added benefit of going then was that we could celebrate Eldest Son’s birthday with him.  As ever, we had a great time and experienced wonderful hospitality.

We did some of the usual things with an enthusiastic FG.  We spent a morning exploring the National Museum of Scotland and another wandering through the Royal Botanic Garden.  Both are great places to take toddlers and FG is very chatty now so trips like these are more pleasurable than ever. 

Morning Across Edinburgh To The Pentland Hills From The Royal Botanic Gardens

FG also has a soul mate in my wife, Jane, when it comes to visiting the cafés in these places.  Since I have pledged to overcome my fear of lukewarm/weak café coffee, and have added going to cafés when requested by Jane to my list of new year resolutions, I went along willingly with their desires.

We had driven up to Edinburgh and the journey was smooth with no problem with charging up the battery.  As a result, we had the option to drive FG and his parents beyond Edinburgh for an outing.  Since the weather was cold but clear, we chose to go to the beach at Yellowcraig near North Berwick. 

Yellowcraig Beach

We had a lovely time passing FG sticks, stones and chunks of seaweed that he could throw into the waves amid Yellowcraig’s open vistas and its big skies.

Looking North To North Berwick Law And Bass Rock From Yellowcraig Beach

Back in his flat, we threw ourselves into entertaining FG with drawing, tower building (and knocking them down), Playdoh moulding, and reading.  FG takes these activities very seriously and loves having control; I love that and it makes the times when he simply laughs and messes about even more enjoyable.  He’s developing so quickly. 

Before FG arrived, my wish was to see a grandchild before I died but now, inevitably, I want to live for decades so I see more and see them grow up. We are so looking forward to the arrival of a second grandchild in Bristol in a couple of months.

We did slip off for some ‘me-time’ too.  I walked down the Water of Leith to Leith town.  I’ve done that before but this time I went a little further to the edge of the port.  Leith is a vibrant town that is being transformed into a trendy outpost on the edge of Edinburgh with a new and frequent tram connection.  Next time we will try to get to see the Royal Yacht Britannia which has been retired to a berth there.

Late Afternoon In Leith And Leith Port
One Of Antony Gormley’s Water of Leith Statues Clad In A Hibernian Football Shirt For New Year

I also wandered through Stockbridge to see some of my favourite residential areas of Edinburgh.  We still debate whether moving to Edinburgh – or at least having a permanent second base there – would be viable and sensible.  The best Georgian flats and houses are lovely to look at and dream of owning.  More practically, a modern flat would be a better target but there’s no harm in looking! 

My Favourite (So Far) Edinburgh Square – Saxe Coburg Place

The drive home from Edinburgh always feels a lot less exciting than the journey up.  Although charging up the car was again problem-free on the way, there was an hour-long stoppage due to an accident a Range Rover towing a food truck strewn across three of the four lanes near Manchester – to further deflate the mood.  But getting home is always a relief and a pleasure of its own.  Now we are chilling out back in our weekly routine which includes evenings in front of the fire and series after series of streamed television. 

A Cosy Fire At Home

Until the next trip to Edinburgh and more memory creation with the little one…..

Heading To The Waves!

Anniversary and Birthday in Edinburgh

Autumn is turning to winter but there is still some colour in the trees and the occasional sunny day provides a bit of autumnal sparkle.  I continue to feel fortunate to live in a pretty (but not prettified) part of Gloucestershire and we enjoyed showing it off a bit while some friends stayed with us at the end of October.  When the sun is low as it is now, the Cotswold stone of the houses glows beautifully and the crispening leaves on the trees glimmer in the breeze.

Local Autumn Colour

I am well behind on the bedding down of the garden and allotment for winter.  I have made some progress but, when the weather has been nice, I’ve tended to take the opportunity to go for local walks.  When the weather has been cold and wet, I’ve stayed close to the heating in our kitchen.  I feel that, as I get older, I feel the cold more than I did.

Chilly Early Starts

Our First Grandchild (FG) doesn’t seem to feel the cold anywhere near so much!  He is thriving up in Edinburgh.  We visited Edinburgh recently to celebrate his second birthday and his parents’ first wedding anniversary.  They have a lovely flat and, now there is a wood-burner in the lounge, a very cosy spot for the evenings.  FG can now lark about before bedtime in his nightwear – or just his nappy – without me feeling chilly by proxy. 

We stayed in Edinburgh for longer than usual but hopefully avoided overburdening the working parents by staying a couple of nights in a hotel rather than with them.  FG seemed to enjoy having two more people to order about especially once his birthday brought more toys for us all to play with. 

He also liked his usual trip with us to the Royal Botanic Garden, where we collected different colours and sizes of leaf.  It’s a wonderful, free resource regardless of the time of year.

Edinburgh’s Royal Botanic Gardens

On the actual day of his birthday, we all joined him on an extended visit to the National Museum of Scotland where he joyfully rushed from exhibit to exhibit.  It’s a great place for kids.

The National Museum Of Scotland

We had other lovely family outings in brilliant sunshine to Saughton Park, which had an interesting history and a goldfish pond which fascinated FG, and to Lauriston Castle gardens with its great views across the Firth of Forth.  Much to Jane’s satisfaction, each visit involved a café stop.  This is something that, when we are alone together, she finds hard to persuade me to indulge in.  With FG, it’s another little opportunity to watch him develop.

Lauriston Castle With The Firth Of Forth Beyond

It was convenient that we had our car, could get around easily with everyone, and that ES and his partner had some time off work so they could enjoy their anniversary and birthday fully.

Jane and I also went off on our own for perusal of Stockbridge’s shops (Jane) and walks by the Water of Leith (me).  The Water of Leith was gushing more than usual following the recent storms which made the riverside walk somehow even more pleasurable than usual, especially as the sun was shining.

We also managed to slide off for an hour in Spry, our favourite wine bar, and for a set of very tasty, innovative small lunch plates at Noto where Eldest Son (ES) and his partner had celebrated their anniversary a couple of nights before.

My Walk Along The Water Of Leith Led Me To Murrayfield

While FG and his parents went off to a birthday party of one of FG’s contemporaries in south Edinburgh, Jane and I took advantage of more sunny weather to climb Blackford Hill.  This afforded great views north of Arthur’s Seat and the city and I had a bit of an internal psychic glow knowing that this was where ES had proposed marriage.  

Views North From Blackford Hill

In between the anniversary and birthday festivities, and as the weather deteriorated, Jane and I visited the newly opened half of the National Gallery of Scotland.  This great new space doubles the size of the gallery and has some excellent works including many by the Glasgow Boys and the less renowned Glasgow Girls.

The New Galleries At The Scottish National Gallery

In a slight overdoing of cultural experience for one day, we also visited Dovecot Studios to see an exhibition called ‘Scottish Women Artists: Challenging 250 Years of Perception’.  This too had art by the Glasgow Girls.  I thought the exhibition was a bit uneven but particularly liked the works by Joan Eardley and a few others. 

Dovecote Studios: Scottish Women Artists (Including Joan Eardley And Alberta Whittle – bottom right and left respectively)

While we were in Edinburgh, ES’s partner cooked us lovely meals and we had great toast-laden breakfasts (Archipelago Bakery sells outstanding bread) plus a couple of substantial delivery meals from local food outlets.  Fortunately, this visit, we met ES’s partner’s parents again and we all tucked into an Indian spread while sharing FG-stories.  

FG’s birthday cake was a delightful mum-made ‘hedgehog cake’ with chocolate buttons for spines (he loved the candle blowing out process and the chocolate).  Later, his birthday dinner was a shared set of delivered pizzas.  Meals delivered to the door are rare treats for me; we don’t have them at home since the choice is limited and the distances feel too great.  I put on weight in Edinburgh but it was well worth it.

Birthday Joy

It’s a long way to Edinburgh and back in our car (though we again had no real problems with charging it up as we travelled).  But we love Edinburgh.  Jane and I know that had ES not met someone from there who wanted to settle in the city, we would not have had such an opportunity to get to know Edinburgh so well.  There is so much more to see there and we look forward to another trip for ES and his partners’ birthdays early next year.

Edinburgh: Same Trip, Different Model

For our latest visit to Edinburgh, we changed the accommodation model from what we have done in the past.  This time we stayed in an Airbnb, converted mews building rather than stay in Eldest Son (ES) and his wife’s flat.  That meant we felt we could stay in Edinburgh for longer – a full week this time – and not be a burden on them as they worked and went about their daily lives. 

Edinburgh New Town (From Calton Hill) – Where First Grandchild Lives!

Because our accommodation was so close to them, we were able to pop over for, or just after, breakfast to see First Grandchild (FG) and, on his nursery days, enjoy the novelty of taking him to his nursery.  Overall, we saw ES, his wife and FG as much as ever, but they and we could also enjoy a bit more independence.  It worked for us anyway!

Our first few days were those when FG doesn’t go to nursery and so we had fun with him in Inverleith Park, the Royal Botanic Garden and the National Portrait Gallery (where FG ignored the art but loved going up and down the flights of steps).  We also loved playing with him at home playing with his toys.  It had been almost two months since we had last seen FG and, at his age (just over 18 months), that is a long time and a lot of growing up.  The way he now plays with his toys using his imagination in conversation with them is the main development I noticed.

Edinburgh Skyline From Inverleith Park

The highlight of these early days of our stay was a car trip to Jupiter Artland to the south west of Edinburgh.  This is an outdoor sculpture park exhibiting a wide variety of works of contemporary artists set in over 100 acres of woodland and open grassland.  It is a very impressive venture founded in 2009 by philanthropist art collectors Robert and Nicky Wilson. 

Jupiter Artland: Works By Shane Waltner, Ian Hamilton Finlay, Anish Kapoor And Cornelia Parker

FG walked with us but was a little bemused by our occasional sheltering under trees to avoid the showers.  He seemed to particularly enjoy the ‘Weeping Girls’ (rather macabre bronze figures looking very sad) by Laura Ford and the ‘Temple of Apollo’ by Ian Hamilton Finlay which had the sort of steps that he loves. 

Jupiter Artland: One Of The ‘Weeping Girls’ By Laura Ford

I believe that he also enjoyed the snacks at the café.  While he tried those out, I popped off to get a closer look at the earthworks by Charles Jencks that we had driven past on the way in to Jupiter Artland.  They are larger versions of those outside the Scottish Museum of Modern Art and are quite dramatic, especially as the heavens opened for another shower.

Jupiter Artland: Charles Jencks’ ‘Cells Of Life’

On the Sunday we had a lovely lunch with ES’s wife’s parents.  ES has certainly married into a family that knows hospitality and how to cook.  We had great breakfasts fueled by bread from excellent Archipelago Bakery and delightful gooseberry jam home made by ES’s mother-in-law.  On our Edinburgh visits ES’s wife has repeatedly demonstrated calm and efficient cooking of lovely meals and she did so again.  ES wasn’t to be outshone and he treated us to a very tasty vegetable curry too.  Overall, and as usual, we ate very well.

We also drank well including at our favourite Edinburgh bar, Spry and at Kay’s Bar which is a tiny, intimate pub tucked away in a side street right next to our Airbnb accommodation. 

Kay’s Bar, Edinburgh

Once we had dropped FG off at nursery – he seemed entirely unfazed by the change in those accompanying him – Jane and I had several hours in which to relax and see the sights of Edinburgh.  Our main excursion within Edinburgh was past the noisy royalists and noisier anti-royalists lining the Royal Mile to watch King Charles receive the Scottish crown jewels, and on to the National Museum of Scotland

‘Not My King’ Protesters On The Royal Mile, Edinburgh

There we saw an exhibition called Beyond the Little Black Dress.  This traced the history of the little black dress as a fashion item since the 1920’s to the present (and, with a bit of foresight, into the future).  Even I could see that the dresses were spectacularly good and almost all the famous designers I know were represented. 

The Little Black Dress Exhibition At The Scottish National Museum

Rather than follow a purely chronological route, the exhibition was mainly structured around themes that have underpinned the use of the little black dress by designers and those who wear it.  There were sections on ‘Well Mannered Black’ (emphasising elegance during cocktail hour), ‘Spiritual Black’ (reflecting religious undertones), ‘Subcultural Black’ (such as the Goth look), and ‘Subversive Black’ (including the erotic and nuances of bondage).  Others showed, for instance, how Japanese designers used different ‘Shades of Black’ and how sustainable fashion is emerging. 

Little Black Dresses At The Exhibition At The Scottish National Museum (With A 3-D Printed Dress Bottom Right)

I liked the displays very much and I felt I learnt something in an area I know little about.  I was particularly struck by the last exhibit which was a short video called ‘Her Dreams Are Bigger’ by Osman Yousefzada.  This showed poor textile workers in Bangladesh – the sort that make mass-produced little black dresses – and related what they imagined the wearers of the clothes they make do and think.  The punchline is in the title of the video.  It was quite unexpectedly moving.

While Jane went off to peruse shops, I walked over to Old Calton Burial Ground and Calton Hill.  Both offered great views of Edinburgh in wonderfully sunny weather and clear air. 

Old Calton Burial Ground

I hadn’t seen the burial ground before and it is a secluded, private space easily overlooked by tourists.  It is dominated by a tall obelisk erected in memory of members of the Friends of the People who campaigned for universal suffrage in the late 18th century but who were deported to Australia for their efforts.  It got me researching ‘one man one vote’ campaigns and I was amazed to find out how long it took for rich property owners to lose their monopoly of electoral privilege.  It was only in the early 20th century that the UK passed legislation to enable all men to vote; womens’ suffrage followed shortly after.

View Across Edinburgh Old Town From Calton Hill

On another day, Jane and I popped into The Scottish Gallery, a private gallery which had completely changed its exhibitions since the last time we visited and now included some lovely porcelain pottery by Jack Doherty (not someone I knew but who Jane follows and likes). 

Jane and I also visited both buildings comprising the Scottish National Gallery of Modern Art where I briefly revisited the retrospective of Alberta Whittle’s work (and, as during our last visit, enjoyed the abstract watercolours more than the more prominent fabric and photo-collage works).  We wandered through the galleries and again I was struck by the number of famous artists (that is, the ones I know!) represented on the walls.  It was nice to be able to spend the time rather aimlessly taking in such a wide range of art.

Modern Art Galleries of Scotland 1 and 2

The relative flexibility of our longer stay in Edinburgh than usual (without impinging overmuch on ES and his wife) and the fact that we drove up (with no recharging delays or issues at all) and so had a car with us, afforded the opportunity to travel further afield.  I’ll cover our day trip to Glasgow separately……

Arthur’s Seat From Calton Hill

Places to Go, Things to Do

Our three sons came from Edinburgh, Bristol and Belfast to stay with us to attend Jane’s Mum’s funeral and then my birthday brunch.  The funeral was very well attended and passed flawlessly, peacefully and movingly.  My birthday was low key but very enjoyable.  It was great to have all three sons in one place for the first time for a while, to hear them banter with each other, and to chat to.

Beautiful Funeral Flowers

Two of them asked, independently, what on earth I fills my time in retirement.  I’m not sure I was entirely candid about my occasional post-lunch snoozes or the rather excessive amount of time I spend looking at my mobile phone – though they are also fairly guilty of the latter so they would understand.  But what struck me once again as I tried to answer is how busy my life still seems to be. 

The routine of walking to the nearest town for the daily shopping and the newspaper, reading that newspaper and the weekly Economist magazine, preparing lunch and (50% of the time) dinner, all takes up hours of relatively relaxed time.  I spend up to a day a week in local climate action and other village activities and another half a day at the Stroud Foodbank.  I have recently inserted an hour or two of gardening into the routine (not enough, but it’s a start) partially at the cost of my frequent walks around the local countryside that usually constitute my main exercise.

Peak Bluebells And Wild Garlic

The early evenings comprise of the ‘Quick Crossword’ over a cup of tea and/or visits to the local pub.  Later, we watch streamed TV series (we tend to gravitate to dark European crime thrillers) and then its time for the BBC News, 15 minutes reading in bed and sleep. 

So, even in weeks without trips to Edinburgh or funerals to attend (and there have been two in the last month unfortunately), I feel pretty occupied.  How did I fit 10 hours a mid-week day on work?  It was interesting to hear Middle Son start to feel the same way now he has given up his job for a bit of downtime before a ‘gap-month’ travelling in Columbia.  He too seems to have found that available time just gets filled with activity.  In retirement, those activities are mainly non-urgent and discretionary; suits me!

Our trip to Edinburgh last month to see First Grandchild (FG) and his parents was as rewarding as usual.  FG is discovering the desire to exert control and is developing a temper, a willingness to do things but only at his pace and when he is ready, and a sense of humour.  Its lovely to see his development in the videos we are sent but even more so face to face.  Maybe I just lack the recall power but I think work got in the way of appreciating all of this in my own children at FG’s age.

The Splendid Roof Of The Scottish National Museum’s Main Hall

As usual, taking FG out to the National Museum of Scotland, to the Royal Botanic Garden and to the local playgrounds were highpoints during our Edinburgh trip.  It’s wonderful to see that everything through his eyes is so new and something to learn about. 

Royal Botanic Garden, Edinburgh: Rhododendrons Out In April!

However, there were many other treats amid the hospitality offered by Eldest Son and his wife and the fun of being with FG.  Jane and I walked to Leith where I bought her birthday present in advance and with her close guidance.  On the way back we stopped off at Spry, our favourite wine bar in the city. 

We also visited the Scottish National Gallery of Modern Art to see an exhibition of Alberta Whittle’s work.  We had seen an exhibition by her in Bath a few months earlier which we had enjoyed.  However, although the exhibition in Edinburgh was much broader in ambition, neither of us enjoyed the individual works so much this time.

‘Taking A Leap Toward The Ancestors’ By Alberta Whittle (2022)

Our cultural immersion while in Edinburgh continued with a brief stop at the private The Scottish Gallery (mainly to see some pretty floral paintings by Angie Lewin) before exceeding all our daily steps targets by crossing the city again to visit the Dovecot Studios.  This was a real highlight.

Part of the Kaffe Fassett ‘Power Of Pattern’ Exhibition

Not only was there an excellent exhibition of textiles by and inspired by Kaffe Fassett called ‘The Power of Pattern’, but the tapestry studios themselves were fascinating.  I was only vaguely familiar with Kaffe Fassett but I loved a lot of the work on show here – mainly because of the vibrancy of the colour – and I learned a lot about his philosophy, way of working and his collaborations with others. 

Close-ups Of Quilted and Tapestry Works By Kaffe Fassett And Followers

The tapestry studios at Dovecote are restored and re-purposed swimming baths that were part of the now defunct infirmary.  The space is airy and dramatic.  The floor – what presumably was the bottom of the swimming pool – is an art space that is currently occupied by a series of looms of varying sizes and types.  Each contained part-finished tapestries that suggested the huge effort that has to go into each.  Upstairs, completed tapestries illustrating various techniques and styles are on display.  We really enjoyed the experience.

Dovecot Studios

To round out the cultural aspect of our Edinburgh trip, I also managed an hour or so in the Scottish National Portrait Gallery.  The entrance hall is stunning and I wanted to see that again.  Inside there was no special exhibition this time but the permanent displays – especially the modern section – were interesting enough.

The Scottish National Portrait Gallery Atrium

The Scottish National Portrait Gallery: Two Unusual, Medical Portraits (By Ken Currie)

Back home we have been enjoying an admittedly rather wet spring.  The wild garlic, bluebells and cow parsley adorn the lanes and the woods.  In the garden, the daffodils, the amelanchier and most of the tulips have been and gone but there are allium flower heads about to burst and green shoots everywhere.  In our lush and green field cum orchard, the cowslips and wild geraniums have proliferated and our eyes are peeled for orchids.

Exotic Garden Tulips And Perfect Apple Blossom

A recent visit to The Ethicurean with Middle Son and his partner for Sunday lunch included a wander around the gardens that provide many of the vegetable ingredients for the cooking.  The lunch itself was multi-course but much more than a tasting menu; it was really imaginative, tasty and filling, and delivered at a perfectly slow pace in the gorgeous surroundings of a converted Victorian greenhouse.  We’ll go again.

The Rather Wonderful The Ethicurean Restaurant

Since then, rather inspired by The Ethicurean’s gardens, I have made progress in clearing most of the vegetable patches, planting beetroot, chard, onions and potatoes and getting bean, courgette and squash seeds on the go. 

This year I have applied a method Jane used for some of her flower seeds to the germination of the beans seeds I recovered from my last two harvests.  Instead of popping them in composted seed trays, I put them between two sheets of wet kitchen roll and put the result in zip lock plastic bags.  I left the bags on the floor of our kitchen which has underfloor heating and, lo and behold, I had a 100% success rate for germination! 

My (Janes!) New Ziplock Plastic Bag Method Of Seed Germination

I have transferred the germinated beans to the small pots and now hope they will grow on with, unlike previous years, zero seed wastage.  Success in a busy retirement schedule is sweet!

Visiting Two Sons

A couple of weekends ago we drove the 350 miles north to Edinburgh to get another hugely welcome dose of Eldest Son (ES), his wife and their delightful son.  My dodgy back more than held up through the drives up and down, the weather was clear and dry, the electric car charging points we used were all working and available, and so both journeys were smooth. 

The (Long) Road To Edinburgh At Keele Services

Throughout our visit, First Grandchild (FG) was an unalloyed joy.  He only had one 30 minute spell when he was tired and grumpy, but he is now old enough to be distractible and consolable.  Whilst his parents have to deal with more of the everyday stresses and strains (and some very early mornings) than I can really remember from our own parenting days, they are settling into their own parenthood, married life and their flat; and FG seems to be loving life!

We had many little trips out with the little one including to the National Museum of Scotland and the Royal Botanic Garden Edinburgh.  Both venues have become fixtures in our itinerary for every trip since they are both so toddler-friendly and free (while presumably relying in large part on donations). 

Water Of Leith At Leith, Edinburgh

We managed a trip out to South Edinburgh with FG, ES and wife to a lovely, relatively new café (Elliott’s) and we twice slipped into Spry Wine Shop and Bar which is, so far, my favourite bar in Edinburgh.  Jane commented that being on our own in Spry felt like being naughtily awol from grand-parenting duties but we did babysit later to enable ES and his wife to visit the same bar one evening.

It was a lovely few days of catch-up, good food and of being able to see, first hand, First Grandchild’s developing physicality, brainpower and, perhaps most of all, his sense of humour.  The videos we now play every day (sometimes multiple times a day) are those of him mucking about and giggling.  As grandparents he is just an absolute treat and we are lucky to be able to see him every couple of months or so.

Grey Skies Over Edinburgh From The Royal Botanical Gardens

We were able to visit Middle Son and his partner in Bristol shortly after our return from Edinburgh.  A highlight was to be able to see, open/close and touch their new bedroom wardrobes.  These were custom made by a craftsman cabinet maker from our village who is near retirement but who is very skilled and has done work in the past in our house.  We are so pleased we could help make the connection to him.  The wardrobes looked great.

We then all went to a very swish new Spanish restaurant called Paco Tapas which is run by an apparently Michelin starred chef (Peter Sanchez-Inglesias).  His reputation and that of his kitchen clearly goes before him and brings in the crowds – the restaurant was packed despite a cost of living crisis and relatively high prices.  Certainly the food was very good and some of the small plates were exceptional.  I especially liked the lamb rump, pork ribs, patatas bravas and citrusy fennel.  I also loved that I faced the kitchen where much was cooked over open flames in a way that provided a bit of extra theatre.

The Avon At Wapping Wharf, Bristol

The restaurant was in an area of Bristol that I didn’t know on the south bank of the Avon estuary called Wapping Wharf.  It was clearly once a heavily used port area.  Large, old cranes still dominate the harbourside while rail tracks criss-cross the roads.  There were still many boats on the quayside from modern cruisers (including one surmounted by a helicopter!), to small cargo ships, to The Matthew of Bristol which is a reconstruction of the boat John Cabot used to discover Newfoundland in 1497.

‘The Matthew At Bristol’ And Princes Wharf Cranes

It was raining so we didn’t loiter but the wharf and nearby marinas, container-based shopping units and restaurants looked interesting and meriting another visit.  Indeed, visiting the cities that our sons have moved to over the last year – Edinburgh, Bristol and Belfast – is one of our great pleasures these days.  However, later this week we are taking a break from that cycle to visit Paris…… whoop, whoop!

A Wedding and a Birthday

Amid much happiness, our Eldest Son (ES) and his partner were married a couple of weekends ago.  Long-Suffering Wife (LSW) and I had a lovely time in Edinburgh celebrating this huge event with them.  What made it extra special for us was that ES and his (now) wife pared down the events of the weekend to a very intimate affair.  Everyone who took part was someone very close to the marrying couple.  That meant that every conversation with everyone in attendance felt meaningful.

The Happy Threesome!

The Registry Office was a grand building with pleasantly decorated rooms and an overseer of the process who achieved the right balance of formality and relaxed bonhomie.  First Grandchild (FG), was rather unwell but nonetheless, was well behaved, wasn’t sick on anyone’s dress and loved playing with the room’s long curtains.  ES looked smart and the bride looked stunning.  As they shared their home-made vows, my tears welled up; their personalisation of the exchange was really moving.

A Touch Of Unseasonable Hayfever?

Later in the afternoon and well into the evening, a wedding reception was held at the married couple’s new flat.  The flat looked great and was just the right size for a party of about 30 enthusiastic relatives and friends.  A few of the latter were fellow new parents who brought contemporaries of FG which added to the lovely, informal conviviality.  Everyone was very happy.

Lovely Wedding Reception Table Layout In The Married Couple’s Flat

The mantelpieces and tables had been beautifully decorated and set out by ES’s new parents in law.   The caterers knew what they were doing (they had been under close instruction from ES’s wife), the food was excellent, and the drinks and conversation flowed.  FG was excited by the hubbub and rallied at the important moments to be giggling sweetness itself, despite his illness.  The speeches were short and heartfelt and the intimacy of the event shone throughout.  We loved it – not only the fact that ES was now married, but that he and his new wife (especially!) had organised what seemed to be an ideal way of doing it.

First Grandchild (FG) Checking The Wedding Presents

On the following day, we refreshed with a sunny morning walk around the Royal Botanic Garden and then met up with a very small number of close relatives for a wonderful lunch at Timberyard.  LSW and I had been there once before and had been very impressed by the food, decor and ambience.  We were very impressed again.  It was the centrepiece to another lovely day.

Walking In Sunny Royal Botanic Gardens, Edinburgh With Youngest And Middle Sons And Their Partners

My Dad and sister went back to rest at their hotel.  It had been marvellous that they had been able to come and they had made the most of their visit to Edinburgh by taking in a couple of art exhibitions as well as the wedding events.  Meanwhile, LSW and I retreated to the Air BnB that we had rented for ourselves, our Middle and Youngest Son and their partners.  There, we allowed our emotions to settle quietly in front of a second rate romantic comedy and assorted crisps.  What a couple of days!

And then the fun went on!  The Monday following the wedding was FG’s first birthday.  Unfortunately FG was still unwell and relatively subdued but he enjoyed early use of some of the presents and a trip to one of the local playgrounds.  Unlike him, we will remember his first birthday for ever.

Wedding Cake Cleverly Converting To Birthday Cake (FG Loves Penguins!)

We left Edinburgh late that afternoon leaving ES and wife to ponder how to manage FG’s illness while both are holding down a job working from home on the back of little sleep.  At that point we assumed that the conundrum they faced would be only for a day or two – it turned out to be another week.  Oh, the joys of parenthood!

Meanwhile, LSW and I set off for Dunkeld on the River Tay, on the southern edge of the Highlands for rather more rest and relaxation than the newly married couple were going to get.

Sun Setting On Edinburgh