Edinburgh Highlights: Eating, Drinking

Continuing the highlights of our month long stay in Edinburgh…… here the best of ways we found to sustain ourselves between our sightseeing.

Dinners

Restaurants in Edinburgh are worthy of a capital city; there is both high quality and diversity.  The best are also very popular and we couldn’t get a suitable booking at a couple of the restaurants on our wish list.  It seems from the evening restaurant experiences we did manage (in between more basic meals back at our rented accommodation) that the clientele is dominated by young professionals.  It seems that either the cost-of-living crisis is a fiction for this group.  Or perhaps they are spending their discretionary funds on the short-term pleasures of dining out rather than accumulating savings in the face of whatever jobs crisis Artificial Intelligence is promising to create for them.

Little Capo was my favourite evening dining experience.  The food, especially the burrata, was excellent and our seating at the bar put us in the centre of a buzzing atmosphere.  The service was excellent – friendly, attentive but not too quick.

Little Capo, Edinburgh
Little Capo, Edinburgh

A close second was a meal at Vinette.  A tiny entrance led to a rather labyrinthine space where, again, the service was very good and at a very comfortable pace.  Our table was somewhere between a corridor and a room and Jane had to spend the evening looking at a fridge of hanging beef which wasn’t ideal.  However, the food was unusual (we didn’t choose the steaks) and very tasty. 

Vinette, Edinburgh
Vinette, Edinburgh

Lunches

As we had when we visited Edinburgh for a month last year, we had lunch at The Port Of Leith Distillery.  This held some nostalgia for us since, last year, coming to the bar in the distillery had been our first real outing together after Jane had broken her shoulder.  It was interesting too to see the result of the demolition work we had a ring-side seat for last year.  My lunch was excellent but Jane said hers was too tepid to be really enjoyable.

View From Port of Leith Distillery: Last Year (Top) Versus This Year
View From Port of Leith Distillery: Last Year (Top) Versus This Year. Royal Yacht Britannia To The Right

Better for lunch and with an equally good view was Cafe Calton.  This is on Calton Hill and is very popular with residents and tourists alike.  We started with a shared, very tasty Scottish Rarebit and my chicken burger was very good with enough unusual touches to raise it above the ordinary.  The efficient, smiling staff seemed to be having a good time and so did we.

View From Outside Cafe Calton
View From Outside Cafe Calton

I know I wanted to avoid a list but I have to mention Sunday lunches at Brown’s of Leith.  This has only been open for a few months but it is already hugely popular.  It was perfect for informal lunch with a large canteen style dining area with three or four pop-up type food and drink providers around the edge including seafood and pizza.  We went twice and I will go again next time we are up.

Coffee and Wine

In my mind, Smith & Gertrude just trumped our old favourites from previous Edinburgh visits: Cairngorm, Toast and Spry Wine Bar and Ante Coffee.  I thought that Ante had the best coffee but they gave it to me in a cup with no handle so I couldn’t drink it easily while it was as hot as I like without burning my fingers; style over function in my view.

Smith and Gertrude with its turntable playing classic vinyl, lovely cheese and wine selection.  On one day, we dived in there as it opened at 4pm to have a swift glass of wine before picking up FG from nursery.  The frisson of mischievousness on our part from being 10 minutes later than usual in picking him up was memorable.

Pubs

One of our longer walks took us through the residential area of Trinity which is full of 18th and 19th century villas and solidly built terraced houses.  Just beyond, was the Firth of Forth and The Starbank Inn which provided a view of the sea and good food and beer.

The Firth of Forth Outside The Starbank Inn.  Gloomy Day But Nice To See The Sea!
The Firth of Forth Outside The Starbank Inn. Rather A Gloomy Day But Nice To See The Sea!

Although it was just over the road from where we were staying, we only managed to get into Teuchters Bar & Bunker, the scene of my rather unfortunate seating failure during last year’s visit, once. 

Because Teuchters majors on the rugby I called upon the outstanding knowledge of Eldest Son’s parents-in-law for suggestions for a venue to watch an Arsenal football game with Youngest Son (he’s a big Arsenal fan) on a rainy Sunday night.  They came up with Platform 5 which turned out to be perfect; a sports bar with a telly showing the Arsenal game in a sea of screens showing the (Glasgow) Rangers versus (Edinburgh) Hearts game in front of dozens of energised Scottish football fans.  The atmosphere was great, the cheering was raucous, broken glass was on the floor, the bar staff were working flat out and Arsenal won (but Hearts lost); great evening!

As usual, Edinburgh had much to offer.  There is still a lot that we have left to do there – I’ve still not been to a music concert there for example.  We love it.

Sunset Over Edinburgh
Sunset Over Edinburgh And The End Of Our Stay

Edinburgh: Holiday or Home?

We have visited Edinburgh many times since Eldest Son (ES) moved there and increasingly frequently since he and his wife had a son there.  We have fallen in love with the city. 

I have always liked city living.  Jane is more of a rural lover.  I too have really enjoyed my several years of retirement in a comfortable home, out in the beautiful countryside of Gloucestershire and our lovely community in the Stroud valleys.  But now we are beginning to recognise that our current levels of mobility won’t be forever and that we need to plan for that.  Living in a town or, better, a city like Edinburgh, might be the solution.

Classic Edinburgh View – The Castle From Princes Street

We have spent a lot of time debating the options and it is a privilege to have those choices.  To help in the decision making, we spent a month from late January in Edinburgh.  All our previous visits to Edinburgh had been little more than long weekends.  This time we wanted to see how it felt to get a more profound and thorough feel for the city, and to think about how it might be to live in it for at least a substantial part of the year.

The month we spent in Edinburgh deepened our regard for it.  We managed to get to the cinema once and the pub a few times, but barely scratched the surface of the nightlife that is available.  However, I could already see that there is a lot going on and that I could resume my love of small-venue music gigs that absorbed me in the latter years of my working life in London.  It seemed clear too from a couple of visits to the local pub with ES’s parent-in-law, that making new friends wouldn’t be too hard.

In the event, I don’t think that we are closer to a decision about where our next couple of steps will take us in terms of where we live.  We continue to toss ideas around. 

I think that we have concluded two things.  First, that the model of hiring a flat in central Edinburgh for a month is one that we want to repeat (although the flat we stayed in this time was really good and set a high expectation for next time); we had a great time and I think the arrangements were helpful to ES and his wife without putting so much pressure on them to provide the hospitality. 

The second thing is that we want to keep a base in the Gloucestershire area so that we can stay close to Jane’s roots and the ones I have put down since we moved here, and be close to Middle Son, his fiancé and Second Grandchild.  Now we need to work out what that means.  Fortunately, we don’t have to make a decision immediately; to an extent, we can see how events unfold and influence things – goodness knows that recent world events have shown how quickly perspectives can change.

Our Rural Idyll – Different From Edinburgh But Not Too Shabby As A Location

Regardless of all that, our winter Edinburgh month left us with a huge number of happy memories.

Best Solo Moments for me during this visit were those alone with First Grandchild (FG).  One was when Jane was rather immobilised with her broken arm, and I took FG out to a local park.  He played wonderfully considerately in the playground and then we went on a long walk during which we chatted incessantly.  I felt so proud of him .

Me: “It’s Like A Trampoline”
FG: “It Is a Trampoline Grandad!”

The other, was when I was babysitting and putting FG to bed but couldn’t work out how to zip up his sleeping bag.  FG (like me) is a person who likes routine and I could see that he was struggling to manage his emotions about my zip incompetence and the impending break in routine.  Just as he visibly got control of those emotions, I finally worked out that the zip went downwards not upwards and we could celebrate together.

Best Moment with Jane was probably one of her earliest ventures out after her accident when we went to The Port of Leith Distillery for lunch.  This a building that stands alone amid demotion works On one side it overlooks the port and the Firth of Forth and, on the other, The Royal Yacht Britannia and the adjacent, drastic demolition and renovation of a chunk of Leith.  The views were great, the demolition work was entertaining to watch (for me, anyway), lunch and drinks were nice and going to Leith on the tram felt like a very positive step in Jane’s recovery.

Port Of Leith Distillery: The View From Our Table, The Building And The Inside

Best Pub was Teuchters Bar & Bunker just over the road from where we were staying.  It has a great range of local beers, really good comfort food and a very convivial atmosphere.  ES’s father-in-law took me there a couple of times and he seemed to know everyone which led me to…..

….Most Embarrassing Moment was in Teuchters when, leaning back to meet yet another new acquaintance standing just behind me, I slid off my chair onto the floor.  I did say the beer was good! 

This just beat another embarrassing moment when I again fell on my backside.  This time I was blown over by the a gust of wind during the last vestiges of Storm Eowyn.  At least I fared better than a magpie that was also caught out by the gusty wind and died yards away having been blown against a building.

Best Bar: Spry, as usual.  We managed to get there almost every week.

Spry Wine Bar

Best Cinema: Everyman Cinema.  It was our first visit to an Everyman cinema that serves food and drink to you in the auditorium while you relax on their sofa-like seats.  I made two mistakes; first I didn’t understand the ordering system and needed to be prompted by the staff to indulge.  Then I unwisely chose their largest bottle of beer – daft if you need to sit through a two-hour film without a loo visit.  We saw the Dylan biopic ‘A Complete Unknown’ and really enjoyed the whole experience.

Best Toastie: The toastie I had at the aptly named Toast in Morningside Road was exceptional.  But for consistency over several visits, I’d recommend Cairngorm Coffee just up the road from where we stayed.  We even had a special Valentines Day orange flavoured toastie there.

Best Restaurant: We didn’t make it to as many as planned but taking our Edinburgh family to The Free Company, a farm and restaurant in the outskirts of Edinburgh on the edge of the Pentland Hills was a real treat.  FG behaved impeccably and did some good dancing on the way out that put my Dad-Dancing to shame. 

The Free Company Restaurant As We Arrived (It Was Almost Full When We Left)

Best Museum was, of course, the National Museum of Scotland which we visit almost every time we are in Edinburgh.  However, for the first time, I also visited the Surgeons’ Hall Museum and enjoyed that.  This museum has several parts covering the origins, history and the future of surgery.  The section called the Wohl Pathology Museum was very impressive although, after 20 minutes of looking at exhibits showing deformed, vitamin-deficient skeletons and the results of cancer on internal organs, I felt a little squeamish and cut the visit short.

Outside The Surgeons’ Hall Museum (No Photos Allowed Inside)

Correction.  I covered best art galleries, cathedrals and graveyards in earlier posts.  However, before moving on from Edinburgh posts, I should just correct a prior statement about there being two cathedrals in Edinburgh.  ES’s father-in-law corrected me and pointed out that there is also St Mary’s Catholic Cathedral nestled next to the new St James’s Shopping Centre and overlooking a plaza with modern and old statues.  For completeness, here it is…..

St Mary’s Catholic Cathedral

Maybe we will pop inside and have a closer look during our next Edinburgh visit.