Edinburgh: Holiday or Home?

We have visited Edinburgh many times since Eldest Son (ES) moved there and increasingly frequently since he and his wife had a son there.  We have fallen in love with the city. 

I have always liked city living.  Jane is more of a rural lover.  I too have really enjoyed my several years of retirement in a comfortable home, out in the beautiful countryside of Gloucestershire and our lovely community in the Stroud valleys.  But now we are beginning to recognise that our current levels of mobility won’t be forever and that we need to plan for that.  Living in a town or, better, a city like Edinburgh, might be the solution.

Classic Edinburgh View – The Castle From Princes Street

We have spent a lot of time debating the options and it is a privilege to have those choices.  To help in the decision making, we spent a month from late January in Edinburgh.  All our previous visits to Edinburgh had been little more than long weekends.  This time we wanted to see how it felt to get a more profound and thorough feel for the city, and to think about how it might be to live in it for at least a substantial part of the year.

The month we spent in Edinburgh deepened our regard for it.  We managed to get to the cinema once and the pub a few times, but barely scratched the surface of the nightlife that is available.  However, I could already see that there is a lot going on and that I could resume my love of small-venue music gigs that absorbed me in the latter years of my working life in London.  It seemed clear too from a couple of visits to the local pub with ES’s parent-in-law, that making new friends wouldn’t be too hard.

In the event, I don’t think that we are closer to a decision about where our next couple of steps will take us in terms of where we live.  We continue to toss ideas around. 

I think that we have concluded two things.  First, that the model of hiring a flat in central Edinburgh for a month is one that we want to repeat (although the flat we stayed in this time was really good and set a high expectation for next time); we had a great time and I think the arrangements were helpful to ES and his wife without putting so much pressure on them to provide the hospitality. 

The second thing is that we want to keep a base in the Gloucestershire area so that we can stay close to Jane’s roots and the ones I have put down since we moved here, and be close to Middle Son, his fiancé and Second Grandchild.  Now we need to work out what that means.  Fortunately, we don’t have to make a decision immediately; to an extent, we can see how events unfold and influence things – goodness knows that recent world events have shown how quickly perspectives can change.

Our Rural Idyll – Different From Edinburgh But Not Too Shabby As A Location

Regardless of all that, our winter Edinburgh month left us with a huge number of happy memories.

Best Solo Moments for me during this visit were those alone with First Grandchild (FG).  One was when Jane was rather immobilised with her broken arm, and I took FG out to a local park.  He played wonderfully considerately in the playground and then we went on a long walk during which we chatted incessantly.  I felt so proud of him .

Me: “It’s Like A Trampoline”
FG: “It Is a Trampoline Grandad!”

The other, was when I was babysitting and putting FG to bed but couldn’t work out how to zip up his sleeping bag.  FG (like me) is a person who likes routine and I could see that he was struggling to manage his emotions about my zip incompetence and the impending break in routine.  Just as he visibly got control of those emotions, I finally worked out that the zip went downwards not upwards and we could celebrate together.

Best Moment with Jane was probably one of her earliest ventures out after her accident when we went to The Port of Leith Distillery for lunch.  This a building that stands alone amid demotion works On one side it overlooks the port and the Firth of Forth and, on the other, The Royal Yacht Britannia and the adjacent, drastic demolition and renovation of a chunk of Leith.  The views were great, the demolition work was entertaining to watch (for me, anyway), lunch and drinks were nice and going to Leith on the tram felt like a very positive step in Jane’s recovery.

Port Of Leith Distillery: The View From Our Table, The Building And The Inside

Best Pub was Teuchters Bar & Bunker just over the road from where we were staying.  It has a great range of local beers, really good comfort food and a very convivial atmosphere.  ES’s father-in-law took me there a couple of times and he seemed to know everyone which led me to…..

….Most Embarrassing Moment was in Teuchters when, leaning back to meet yet another new acquaintance standing just behind me, I slid off my chair onto the floor.  I did say the beer was good! 

This just beat another embarrassing moment when I again fell on my backside.  This time I was blown over by the a gust of wind during the last vestiges of Storm Eowyn.  At least I fared better than a magpie that was also caught out by the gusty wind and died yards away having been blown against a building.

Best Bar: Spry, as usual.  We managed to get there almost every week.

Spry Wine Bar

Best Cinema: Everyman Cinema.  It was our first visit to an Everyman cinema that serves food and drink to you in the auditorium while you relax on their sofa-like seats.  I made two mistakes; first I didn’t understand the ordering system and needed to be prompted by the staff to indulge.  Then I unwisely chose their largest bottle of beer – daft if you need to sit through a two-hour film without a loo visit.  We saw the Dylan biopic ‘A Complete Unknown’ and really enjoyed the whole experience.

Best Toastie: The toastie I had at the aptly named Toast in Morningside Road was exceptional.  But for consistency over several visits, I’d recommend Cairngorm Coffee just up the road from where we stayed.  We even had a special Valentines Day orange flavoured toastie there.

Best Restaurant: We didn’t make it to as many as planned but taking our Edinburgh family to The Free Company, a farm and restaurant in the outskirts of Edinburgh on the edge of the Pentland Hills was a real treat.  FG behaved impeccably and did some good dancing on the way out that put my Dad-Dancing to shame. 

The Free Company Restaurant As We Arrived (It Was Almost Full When We Left)

Best Museum was, of course, the National Museum of Scotland which we visit almost every time we are in Edinburgh.  However, for the first time, I also visited the Surgeons’ Hall Museum and enjoyed that.  This museum has several parts covering the origins, history and the future of surgery.  The section called the Wohl Pathology Museum was very impressive although, after 20 minutes of looking at exhibits showing deformed, vitamin-deficient skeletons and the results of cancer on internal organs, I felt a little squeamish and cut the visit short.

Outside The Surgeons’ Hall Museum (No Photos Allowed Inside)

Correction.  I covered best art galleries, cathedrals and graveyards in earlier posts.  However, before moving on from Edinburgh posts, I should just correct a prior statement about there being two cathedrals in Edinburgh.  ES’s father-in-law corrected me and pointed out that there is also St Mary’s Catholic Cathedral nestled next to the new St James’s Shopping Centre and overlooking a plaza with modern and old statues.  For completeness, here it is…..

St Mary’s Catholic Cathedral

Maybe we will pop inside and have a closer look during our next Edinburgh visit.

New Year, New Trip

We chose Belfast rather than Edinburgh for Christmas but I couldn’t wait to see First Grandchild (FG) again and so we pitched up in Edinburgh early in January.  The added benefit of going then was that we could celebrate Eldest Son’s birthday with him.  As ever, we had a great time and experienced wonderful hospitality.

We did some of the usual things with an enthusiastic FG.  We spent a morning exploring the National Museum of Scotland and another wandering through the Royal Botanic Garden.  Both are great places to take toddlers and FG is very chatty now so trips like these are more pleasurable than ever. 

Morning Across Edinburgh To The Pentland Hills From The Royal Botanic Gardens

FG also has a soul mate in my wife, Jane, when it comes to visiting the cafés in these places.  Since I have pledged to overcome my fear of lukewarm/weak café coffee, and have added going to cafés when requested by Jane to my list of new year resolutions, I went along willingly with their desires.

We had driven up to Edinburgh and the journey was smooth with no problem with charging up the battery.  As a result, we had the option to drive FG and his parents beyond Edinburgh for an outing.  Since the weather was cold but clear, we chose to go to the beach at Yellowcraig near North Berwick. 

Yellowcraig Beach

We had a lovely time passing FG sticks, stones and chunks of seaweed that he could throw into the waves amid Yellowcraig’s open vistas and its big skies.

Looking North To North Berwick Law And Bass Rock From Yellowcraig Beach

Back in his flat, we threw ourselves into entertaining FG with drawing, tower building (and knocking them down), Playdoh moulding, and reading.  FG takes these activities very seriously and loves having control; I love that and it makes the times when he simply laughs and messes about even more enjoyable.  He’s developing so quickly. 

Before FG arrived, my wish was to see a grandchild before I died but now, inevitably, I want to live for decades so I see more and see them grow up. We are so looking forward to the arrival of a second grandchild in Bristol in a couple of months.

We did slip off for some ‘me-time’ too.  I walked down the Water of Leith to Leith town.  I’ve done that before but this time I went a little further to the edge of the port.  Leith is a vibrant town that is being transformed into a trendy outpost on the edge of Edinburgh with a new and frequent tram connection.  Next time we will try to get to see the Royal Yacht Britannia which has been retired to a berth there.

Late Afternoon In Leith And Leith Port
One Of Antony Gormley’s Water of Leith Statues Clad In A Hibernian Football Shirt For New Year

I also wandered through Stockbridge to see some of my favourite residential areas of Edinburgh.  We still debate whether moving to Edinburgh – or at least having a permanent second base there – would be viable and sensible.  The best Georgian flats and houses are lovely to look at and dream of owning.  More practically, a modern flat would be a better target but there’s no harm in looking! 

My Favourite (So Far) Edinburgh Square – Saxe Coburg Place

The drive home from Edinburgh always feels a lot less exciting than the journey up.  Although charging up the car was again problem-free on the way, there was an hour-long stoppage due to an accident a Range Rover towing a food truck strewn across three of the four lanes near Manchester – to further deflate the mood.  But getting home is always a relief and a pleasure of its own.  Now we are chilling out back in our weekly routine which includes evenings in front of the fire and series after series of streamed television. 

A Cosy Fire At Home

Until the next trip to Edinburgh and more memory creation with the little one…..

Heading To The Waves!

Proper Baby-Sitting and Grayson Perry

We have babysat First Grandchild (FG) a few times for short periods during visits to Edinburgh during the last year or so.  It’s been a joy and a privilege to be able to do so. Plus we always enjoy visiting his parents and seeing Edinburgh.

The Water of Leith From Dean Bridge – The Steep Gradients So Near To The Centre Of Edinburgh Still Surprise Me

Our baby-sitting responsibilities went up a notch at the beginning of September when First Grandchild’s (FG’s) parents went to a wedding of an old friend in Spain.  Jane and I were thankful to be asked to baby sit for the 36 hours they were away but were unsure how the experience would go for us and for FG. 

His other grandparents do a lot of babysitting and look after him all day on Thursdays.  But it would be the first time that someone other than a parent would get FG up in the morning (twice), manage his afternoon nap (twice), put him to bed (once), plus feed, entertain and keep him safe in between.  It was our first go at proper grandchild babysitting!

Eldest Son and his wife had departed in the small hours of the night.  Apart from 15 minutes of full-on anxiety and yelling after he woke up that morning, and another five minutes of low-grade moaning after his first nap, FG was fine with the whole weekend. 

First Grandchild Exactly Where We Wanted Him – Asleep With His Monkey and Other Soft Toys

FG knows his routine down to the fine details: which soft toy needs to be kissed goodnight in what order, which book is the last book to be read before bedtime, which bedroom light goes on and off when.  As long as we stuck to that routine and provided plenty of book reading, tower and garage building, and other activities at other times, he was very happy.  FG, his parents in Spain and, certainly, the two of us, all had (tiring) fun.

Of course, we visited a few Edinburgh playgrounds and, as usual, the Royal Botanic Garden with FG while we were with him.  The weather was kind to us and we were able to walk, to and from everywhere and around the gardens, at FG’s pace. 

Like most kids his age he loves being able to take mini-decisions about what to do when and, as grandparents, we have the time to allow that.  That Jane has had a motherhood bringing up three boys and then a career in providing parental advice to troubled mums and dads really helps.  I learnt a lot from her about how to give toddlers options so they feel a semblance of decision making while the adults actually remain in control.

A highlight with FG was a trip to Portobello beach.  We got there early so the crowds were yet to gather in large numbers in the sunny and warm weather.  FG loves the outdoors and the novelty of visiting the coast.  He loved wandering along the shoreline and collecting shells and other debris along it (and, in some sort of memory throwback to my own childhood, so did I).  It was a great way to spend a morning.

First Grandchild (FG) And Granny On Portobello Beach

Another morning with FG was consumed with a trip on the new tram service to and from Leith.  FG was more concerned with engaging with fellow passengers willing to smile at him than with looking out of the window.  He enjoyed the journey and a big vegan biscuit at Williams and Johnson Coffee Co.  Leith appears to be an increasingly cool place to live and work and the tram extension is surely a catalyst for that.

Leith

Before FG’s parents shot off for their whirlwind jaunt to the wedding, we managed a good dose of art and culture by visiting The Scottish Gallery, a nearby private gallery we have visited several times before, and the National Gallery of Scotland.

‘Folk At Heart’ At The Scottish Gallery, Edinburgh

The Scottish Gallery was showing a range of artists embracing traditional folk art.  Although the gallery is quite small, there was plenty to admire.  I particularly liked the woven baskets, the muted colours of some of the naïve style paintings and prints and, downstairs, the textiles by Jane Keith which were innovatively displayed given the compact space.

Textiles By Jane Keith At The Scottish Gallery

The headline exhibition at the National Gallery was a substantial retrospective of Grayson Perry’s work.  I’ve enjoyed Grayson Perry exhibitions before – notably the Summer Exhibition at the Royal Academy in 2018 and, more recently, in Bath.  The latter was a small exhibition of his ceramics where Grayson explained the pieces in his own words. 

Grayson provided the captions for each piece at the National Gallery exhibition too and, apart from the art itself, this was one of the most attractive features of the show.  His art is very accessible anyway but his thoughtful captions alongside each piece were unpretentious, clear and highly explanatory of the themes that have dominated his work since he was a very young man and how they have developed in his mind.

Examples Of Grayson Perry’s Ceramics, Iron And Tapestry Works – With Typical Intense Detail

From the first work – a plate he made in 1983 called ‘Kinky Sex’ – the irreverence of his approach and the courage of his anti-establishmentarianism came through.  But rather than be just a series of bold, even brash statements, the exhibition and particularly Grayson’s own words, drew me into what I see the Guardian newspaper calls ‘a thrumming conversation’. 

Grayson’s ‘Tomb Of The Unknown Craftsman’ (2011)

Some of the pieces on show were beautiful to my eyes, some were rather ugly, but every one of them had something to say and was engaging in some way.  Rather than say more here, this is a link to a video hosted by Grayson describing much of the show: Grayson Perry’s Smash Hits.  Watch out for references to ‘Alan Measles’ who is Grayson’s (troubled) childhood teddy bear who, entertainingly, crops up in various guises throughout the exhibition.

‘Kenilworth AM1’ (Including Alan Measles’s ‘Stunt Double’ In The Box On The Back)

The only downside to the exhibition was that, somehow, I missed the last room and exited prematurely.  Nonetheless I thought it was brilliant.

As was the whole weekend!  Proper baby-sitting was a resounding success and we look forward to doing it again (we are scheduled for a longer stint in April next year during another Spanish wedding trip). 

Having said that, it was great to get home, slot into routines less driven by a 21-month-old, and have a bit of a rest in what remained of summer in our home and garden. 

Late Summer In Our Garden

London 2 Edinburgh 1; But Edinburgh Wins

Long-Suffering Wife (LSW) and I have travelled twice to London and once to Edinburgh in the last couple of weeks.  Our trips to London related to our preparations to sell our flat in the Barbican.  It is no longer required now that I have retired and our sons no longer have any great need for it.  I shall be sad to see it go – it was my base 5 days a week for pretty much 20 years of London working – but go it must.

We got those preparations for sale done very satisfactorily and the flat is on the market.  However, we also found time to visit a few exhibitions and bar and restaurant venues; London is always a great place to visit and the flat was, as ever, a very comfortable place to stay. 

Our Barbican Flat, Ready For Sale

Our trip to Edinburgh was sandwiched between those London trips.  Edinburgh is, of course, a much smaller city than London but it is a national capital and has many of the same sorts of sights and attractions.  Above all, it now is home to our First Grandchild (FG) and we currently need no greater attraction.  As any parent or grandparent will know, it is amazing how fast babies develop and start to take on a character of their own.  We are lucky to be able to see this with FG and it was such an enjoyable trip!

Once again we stayed in the Premier Inn Hub in Rose Street.  It is inexpensive, very comfortable, small but perfectly formed.  It is close to where Eldest Son (ES) and his partner live.  It is central and close to all the main city sights.  The Premier Inn Hub chain has become our go-to hotel and, once the London flat is sold, I can envisage us using it in London too.

Once again too, we visited the Joan Eardley exhibition (now finished) at the Scottish National Gallery of Modern Art.  I enjoyed it hugely during our first visit.  This time we had FG duties (very willingly undertaken) so the visit was briefer but, not having heard of Eardley before last Autumn, she now has a firm place in my compendium of favourite artists.  FG wasn’t fussed by the art but seemed to like the ceiling lights.

‘Boats On The Shore’ By Joan Eardley (1963)

We also visited an exhibition (also now finished) in the Scottish National Gallery of JMW Turner watercolours.  These had been collected by Henry Vaughan , a great admirer of Turner, and then bequeathed by him to the Gallery in 1900.  As he did so, he specified that, to preserve their colour, they only be shown in the typically dull days of January.  This exhibition was a rare occasion when all 38 had been brought together in a single show. 

Turner is definitely one of my long standing artists and the exhibition demonstrated many of his best traits – the atmospheric glows of storms and skies, the complex colouring and the huge vistas.  There were also some more delicate portrayals such as an empty chair indicating the recent death of a friend.  No one painting felt great but the ‘whole’ created by the 38 pictures was interesting.

JMW Turner Watercolours From The Henry Vaughan Bequest At The Scottish National Gallery

Another highlight from this Edinburgh trip was our first walk all the way to Leith. 

Andrew Gormley Sculpture On The Walk To Leith

Leith has a rather different feel from the other parts of Edinburgh we have come to know.  Whereas large parts of the New Town area where ES lives are unchanged in a hundred years, Leith is developing quickly and has a slightly different, almost East London, buzz about it. 

Leith (Old Customs House To The Left)

In New Town, LSW and I spent an afternoon perusing the high quality art galleries in ES’s street (Dundas Street) and then had a relaxed drink or two in a relatively new bar called Spry.  Incredibly, despite it only apparently having about a dozen seats, we got a table by the window and liked the ambience very much.

Exotic And Rather Lovely Baskets By Gudrun Pagter and Baba Tea Company (Ghana) At The Scottish Gallery, Edinburgh

As on previous trips, we ate well.  ES’s partner produced another lovely meal, we had a surprisingly relaxed evening at Pizza Express with a sleepy FG, and a substantial Indian takeaway.  It was great to meet up with ES’s partner’s parents again (especially as the football team I support happen to have beaten one of the teams her Dad supports in the afternoon 🙂 ).  And it was especially great to see FG smiling, growing and, between rather sleep-deprived nights, giving his new Mum and Dad some real joy.

Back in London, I visited the National Maritime Museum to see the Astronomy Photographer of the Year exhibition.  I’ve seen this exhibition in previous years and, while I don’t understand the techniques used in taking the photographs, I love seeing the results.  It’s a little-known pleasure.

Astronomy Photographers Of The Year At The National Maritime Museum

LSW and I also had another pleasant (and, incredibly, free) dose of Isamu Noguchi; this time an exhibition of his relatively recent work in the large spaces of the White Cube Gallery.  It was, of course, a much smaller exhibition than that we had seen last month at the Barbican, but it reflected many of the same themes which I found reinforcing and strangely comforting. 

Works By Isamu Noguchi At The White Cube Gallery

On the way, we discovered a good new breakfast venue: Watch House at Tower Bridge.  Ozone, which is our normal breakfast haunt is also very good and both are open early.  Edinburgh has some excellent breakfast places but few open early enough for us.  It’s a small area for potential improvement in the comparison between London and Edinburgh.  However, First Grandchild puts a gloss on Edinburgh that makes it the go to city for me at the moment!

LSW and FGs’ Hands