Betwixtmas in Belfast

The period between Christmas Day and New Years Eve appears to have a new name (new for me, anyway): Betwixtmas.  These few days at the end of December can feel like a strange little lull.  Christmas Day is such a climax of social interaction, celebration, eating and drinking.  Then, although we no longer stay up to see the New Year in, the advent of a New Year is another cause for celebration and new hope.  The days in between often feel calm but can also feel like filler.

Until quite late in my career, I usually drifted into work or ‘worked from home’ to get peripheral tasks done without using up precious holiday allowances.  Because so many colleagues were out of the office for the holiday period, I could often get a surprising amount done.  Later, I tended to take time off to chill out after Christmas away from London.  Now I’m retired, there are even more options to relax into Betwixtmas.

This year we were lucky enough to be able to spend Betwixtmas in Belfast with Youngest Son (YS) and his wife.  For us this year, Betwixtmas was busy and bright – certainly not ‘filler’.  Our Belfast trip followed our first Boxing Day for nearly 40 years without any offspring.  The uniqueness of that was tempered by a sunny walk, a very good lunch at a local and recently expanded pub (The Old Fleece), a brief visit to nearby friends and then an early night.

The weather in Belfast was very good for the time of year and the logistics of travel to get there worked.  Once we were in Belfast, we had a really relaxed and great time. 

Views From The Metropolitan Arts Centre, Belfast

YS and his wife are a brilliant team.  They are currently setting up a new osteopathy and Pilates business called Nellie Studio.  This will be on a floor of a Victorian warehouse in East Belfast that they are renovating.  They have grappled with the treacle of having to obtain planning permission and building regulations control for the listed building and are now pressing the letting agent and builders to get the space ready for income generating osteopathy treatments and Pilates workouts.  Observing the way they are working together to achieve all of this was inspiring.

Billie Studio’s Osteopathy Treatment Room Taking Shape

In between dashing across Belfast to source curtain poles and extra wood flooring, while we babysat their dog, YS and his wife entertained us with films and sport in their cosy lounge, trips to excellent restaurants and walks in surprisingly sunny weather.  For me, the only blemish to Betwixtmas was that Forest Green Rovers (the football team I support rather too obsessively) failed to win either of the televised games in the period.

Dog (Reggie) Sitting With A Very Relaxed Dog
Dog (Reggie) Sitting With A Very Relaxed Dog

Belfast is a significantly smaller city than Bristol or Edinburgh where our other sons live.  However, it is developing quickly as the Northern Ireland Troubles gradually recede into history.  Young entrepreneurs appear to be establishing new independent businesses and there is already a busy and excellent café, restaurant and bar scene.  There are far fewer of these than in, say, Edinburgh; but how many does one need?  Belfast has enough and is developing further between each of our visits.

Breakfasts are particularly well done.  Cultura again stood out for me as the most outstanding breakfast but we also had a great brunch at DRIP and the best coffee was at Established which has long been one of our favourite breakfast haunts. 

On an outing to the south of Belfast, we visited Fodder in the Woods for a burger lunch and then wandered around the associated gift and food shops and Finnebrogue Woods.  It seems that, well beyond Belfast, young businesses are starting up everywhere.

Fodder In The Woods And Finnebrogue Loch
Fodder In The Woods And Finnebrogue Loch

We also had a treat of a dinner at the new Capparelli at the Mill restaurant that has been established by one of Yotam Ottolenghi’s ex-chefs.  It is in a lovely building that has been expanded imaginatively and lovingly.  The service and food were outstanding and I can’t wait to go again.

Capparelli Mill
The Approach To Capparelli At The Mill

We ate very well throughout our stay.  YS, his wife and her mother all produced great home cooking for us on successive evenings.  We also visited a couple of pubs that we hadn’t been to before (The Jeggy Nettle, which had a lovely open fire, and Northern Lights, which had a range of twenty craft beers of the type I like).  YS also gave us the first margaritas we could recall drinking – complete with salt around the top of the glass – all very innovative and special for us!

'Archer Fam' Chicken Pie By YS's Wife - Delicious!
‘Archer Fam’ Chicken Pie By YS’s Wife – Delicious!

We squeezed some culture and some walks into the schedule.  As on previous Belfast visits we strolled through the Botanic Gardens to the Ulster Museum

Inside The Ulster Museum
Inside The Ulster Museum

Here, the exhibition on the origin and history of The Troubles is well put together and informative.  We had seen this before but there is too much to absorb in any one visit and this time I focused on the videos spelling out origins of The Troubles.  We have seen the excellent, recent TV series Say Nothing, Trespasses and (most of) Once Upon a Time in Northern Ireland and the Ulster Museum provided another dimension to our understanding of the issues and the way they have been, at least partially, resolved.

Collection OF Ceramics By Local Artists At The Ulster Museum
Collection OF Ceramics By Local Artists At The Ulster Museum

On our last morning, we popped into the Metropolitan Arts Centre (MAC) where there were exhibitions by William McKeown, Niamh Seana Meehan, Marie Hanlon & Rhona Clarke.  Each one was diverting in their diverse ways and the building itself is interesting.  I’m sure we will visit the Ulster Museum and the MAC again during future Belfast trips.

Sea Skin By Niamh Seana Meehan At MAC
Sea Skin By Niamh Seana Meehan At MAC

So, Betwixtmas was very successful for us this year.  It came following a wonderful Christmas Day with Second Grandchild (SG), Middle Son (MS), his fiancée and her mother in Bristol.  MS treated us to not only brunch but then a very tasty Christmas dinner of chicken, ham, pigs in blankets, stuffing and about six vegetable side dishes – my plate near overfloweth! 

MS Was So Impressively In Control OF Chrismas Lunch (Ably Supported BY His Sous Chefs) That He Was Able To Take Us For a Walk Through St Werburghs, A Very Bohemian Part Of Bristol
MS Was So Impressively In Control Of Christmas Lunch (Ably Supported By His Sous Chefs) That He Was Able To Take Us For a Walk Through St Werburghs, A Very Bohemian Part Of Bristol With Gaudi-esque Buildings

Betwixtmas ends with New Year’s Eve.  As we move past New Years Day and into the early days of the new year, there is a chance to think about hopes and resolutions for 2026.  Maybe I’ll write about those New Year Resolutions later this month if I can sustain actually doing them for that long.  Meanwhile, Happy New Year to all!

Great As It Is To Travel Away From Home, It Is Always Good To Come Back - Ruskin Mill In Winter Sun
Great As It Is To Travel Away From Home, It Is Always Good To Come Back – Ruskin Mill In Winter Sun

Belfast Christmas

Christmas in Belfast started at a furious pace.  Youngest Son (YS) picked us up from George Best City Airport and whisked us off to an Asian small-plates restaurant in the centre of town called Yugo.  We had an early, swift and tasty dinner there before zooming off again to traditional Irish bar in the old docklands, The American Bar.  Here, we met up with YS’s future parents-in-law and had a catch-up chat while staying well out of the way of the regulars who seemed very proprietorial about their seats at the bar.

The Lagan At Christmas, Belfast

Then we crossed the road to the Dockers Club for a gig by George Houston who was an excellent warm up act for Joshua Burnside.  Both artists were amusing between the enlivening music and they both had songs with interesting lyrics. 

George Houston At The Dockers Club

It was a great venue; apparently the gig was sold out but it wasn’t too crowded.  The acoustics were great.  I could make out all the words of the songs as long as I didn’t stand behind the enthusiastic woman who thought she knew them all and thought we’d benefit from bellowing them out.  Plus, the Guiness was creamy and proper.  Seeing a gig in such a lively, functional venue was a real treat.

Joshua Burnside And Band

It was interesting to see YS and his fiancé bumping into several acquaintances and friends.  Belfast is small compared to London where meeting up at a gig would be unlikely unless planned in advance.  It is clear that YS’s partner has a huge network of friendships in Belfast through living in the city through her youth and, now, through her work as an osteopath and as a Pilates and yoga teacher.  It is great to see how settled – and successful – they have become in Belfast.

It was late by the time we got back to their house and Reggie, their one-year-old dog was suffering cabin fever and then overexcitement as we walked in.  Let’s just say he had an unsettled night of whining and moaning….  To be fair, he was very quiet on the other nights of our stay and he has settled down a lot since we last saw him in Spring.  He no longer chews the furniture and stairs – though his history of this remains evident – and he is a very gentle dog whose only anxiety seems to be worry that everyone in his ‘family’ are close by.  I’m looking forward to even more maturity by the next time we visit.

After that exciting first evening, the pace slowed and became very relaxing.  YS loves a bit of technology and he has a huge telly with surround-sound in one room and a (pretty awesome) projector in another.  That meant that while YS and I could watch football in one room, his partner and Jane could watch a stream of Christmas holiday movies in the other.  The latter included Bernard and the Genie which we all watched.  I hadn’t seen it since our sons were very young and was surprised that, amid the hilarity, some bits are amusingly inappropriate for the young. 

We played games.  YS won at HeckMeck as usual but Jane and I were dominant during my first exposure to Articulate!  We had a hoot with that!  I was less good at Jenga 😊

Ormeau’s Bread and Banjo Bakery – Excellent And The Best We Have Found In Belfast So Far

We ventured out to the independent shops in the local Ormeau area primarily to get some very good bread and bagels.  Then, for the first time, we visited Lisburn Road, which also has an attractive range of shops, and picked up sherry and some interesting wine. 

Maven – A Cool Home Decoration Shop In Lisburn Road

I dipped out of some of the perusal of shops to walk through pleasant but wintery Ormeau Park.  That enabled me to get exercise sufficient to enable conscience-free consumption later

Carved In A Tree Stump With A Chainsaw By Hazy In Ormeau Park

On Christmas Eve we had a lovely walk along the Lagan River and into the woods near the Stanmillis Sluice Gates. 

Stranmillis Sluice Gate On The River Lagan

On Christmas Day we strolled through the Botanical Gardens and past the Queens University Sports Hall.  There is a surprisingly large amount of interesting green space near to the dense but attractive residential housing of Ormeau – much needed with a dog as big and energetic as Reggie.

Belfast Botanic Gardens In Winter

On Boxing Day, the weather was excellent in the morning and YS insisted that we fulfil what is becoming a tradition when we visit him in Belfast: a sunrise walk on a beach.  Fortunately, its winter so the need to see the sunrise was less demanding on our sleep patterns than in the past. 

Just Before Sunrise – Helens Bay, Belfast

We went to Helen’s Bay and Crawfordsburn Country Park and it was empty and gorgeous. 

Helens Bay With Reggie At Full Pelt

Fortunately, especially early in our walk, there were few other dogwalkers. Reggie the dog is gradually becoming more manageable with other dogs but he is over-enthusiastic and provokes fuss and bother.  Amusingly, when he gets into a tangle with another dog, YS and his fiancé’s strategy is to run away as fast as possible – not to ignore the problem, but to lure Reggie away promptly.  It sort-of works and some other dog owners found it funny.

Finally, it being Christmas and all, we ate and drank well.  YS had bought a selection of excellent beers with strange names from Boundary Brewing

On the food front, a highlight, of course, was the Christmas dinner itself which included YS’s terrific pigs-in-blankets.  We also feasted on a huge selection of local cheese that had been provided by YS’s next door neighbours in gratitude for tolerance in the last 6 months while they built a very substantial extension on the back of their house.  (Hopefully, one day, YS and his fiancé will be able to build an extension too!).  Then, on our last night, YS’s fiancé made a delicious prawn and orzo dish that I will try out at home.

A Full Plate Of Christmas Dinner – Lucky Us!

It was a lovely Christmas.  Three years ago, Covid broke the mould of the succession of Christmas get-togethers with all of Jane’s family at our house.  Then, two years ago, we decamped to the Isle of Skye for a small family Christmas with those sons and partners without a baby.  Last year was a relatively small affair at our house with sons and partners that focused on First Grandchild as much as Christmas.  And now we have done Belfast Christmas. 

Chilled Out Belfast Christmas

Next year the plan is to host at our house all three sons and their wives, partners and fiancés plus what will be two grandchildren by then.  It’s only a plan but it is clear that the time for extended 15 to 20-strong family Christmas lunch has, passed for us and, now I have retired and have no work constraints, I can envisage that we may be even more innovative in Christmas location and composition in the future.  Long may that continue.  Lucky us. Happy New Year!