Resolutions And Houghton Hall

I have made patchy progress in adhering to my 2024 New Year resolutions during the first half of this year.  I’m ok with alcohol targets and weight management.  As planned, I’m spending more quality time reading books and I’m listening to less (largely agitating or depressing) news on the radio and television.  However, I’m not doing enough back exercises despite grumbling about a stiff back.  Also, my resolve to step up my creative activity has been weak since my visible darning of a load of socks and my devising of an Easter treasure hunt for First Grandchild.

Additionally, since a good start early in the year, Jane and I have not been consistent in addressing our joint aim of embarking on more short trips away from home.  We set this target with the intention of responding to periods of good weather and our relatively flexible diaries to see bits of the UK we are not familiar with.  In part that has been because the abnormally cool, wet weather hasn’t been particularly conducive to such thinking.  Also, my diary has been less flexible since I took up a new commitment on Wednesday afternoons to listen to children read as part of the local ‘Read With Me’ scheme.

Houghton Hall And Gardens, Norfolk

We have done much better as the weather has improved and the school term drew to a close.  We have followed up our trip to Sissinghurst, Rye and Lewes with another lengthy excursion to Houghton Hall and Gardens in north Norfolk, and then on to visit friends in north Suffolk.  On all these travels this month, we were blessed with very good weather. 

Houghton Hall was impressive, the gardens-cum-sculpture park there were interesting and it was great to see our longstanding friends again.

Houghton Hall West Wing (From The Cafe)

We left early with the intention of arriving at the Houghton Hall at opening time but, after encountering tedious traffic jams around Kings Lynn, arrived a little after midday.  The car park was already extending into the overflow area but the grounds of the house are so huge that, once we got into them past the café and exhibitions (including a truly remarkable exhibition of the Cholmondeley Collection of Model Soldiers) in the splendid West Wing, the crowds seemed to melt away.

The Remarkable Model Soldier Collection of the 6th Marquess of Cholmondeley Spanning Two Densely Packed Rooms

The gardens double up as a sculpture park and, immediately, we could see Antony Gormley statues dotting the acres of lawn.  Jane explained that the 100 statues comprising his work called ‘Time Horizon’ had been installed so that they were all standing at the same height above sea level.  Given the undulating land of the gardens, this concept meant that some statues barely were barely visible – with just their heads showing – while others were on tall plinths.  We have seen the multiple statues (of himself) several times before in a variety of settings but this idea of consistent altitude was a new and amusing one for me.

Antony Gormley Statues – All At The Same Height Above Sea Level – At Houghton Hall Gardens

In the South Wing there was a small, temporary exhibition of Magdalene Odundo’s work called ‘Metamorphosis and Transformation’, an installation of blown glass vessels apparently based on an ancient Egyptian ear stud found.  That was impressive although I found some of her other work set out in the main house elegant but a little distracting in its contrast with the heavy furnishings and wall art there.

Metamorphosis and Transformation (2011) By Magdalene Odundo

Elsewhere in the gardens, we saw sculpture by other artists we have encountered before such as Richard Long, Sean Scully and Rachel Whiteread, plus several others I wasn’t familiar with.  I particularly enjoyed ‘Sybil Hedge’ by Anya Gallaccio.  This was an unusual ‘sculpture’ made from a large, winding beech hedge that worked well in the large scale of the garden.

‘Houghton Hut’ By Rachel Whiteread
A Section Of ‘Sybil Hedge’ By Anya Gallaccio At Houghton Hall Gardens

The Palladian style house was bathed in sun but, inside, the rooms were dark to preserve the furnishings, tapestries and artworks.  As Jane remarked, despite the size of the rooms, they felt almost claustrophobic after the expanses of the grounds.  The tapestries that adorned many of the walls contributed to that feeling but they were remarkably well preserved and had interesting content.  The sumptuous rooms, with their blurry views out onto the lawns and deer park though original, handmade glass, were well worth the extra visit fee.

Inside Houghton Hall

The highlight of the visit for me was the Walled Garden.  This was beautiful at every turn and a riot of colour.  An interesting twist was that vegetables were grown between the flowers and, here too, Gormley’s statues (on plinths here because of the lower altitude) were watching over us.  It was clear that the volunteers and gardeners that manage the garden are not blighted by the multitude of slugs and snails as we are back at home; everything looked vibrant and healthy.

From Houghton Hall we drove south to Eye in Suffolk.  By this time, we needed to charge up the car.  We have noticed a huge improvement in the availability of electric vehicle charging points during our last few trips around the United Kingdom.  Certainly, both our charge ups on this trip were very quick and easy.

Another of Gormley’s Statues, This Time In Houghton Hall Looking Out At Others (Incredibly, Given The Amount Of Work Involved In Setting It Up, The Installation Is Only Until October 2024)

We arrived at our friend’s house in time for drinks in the sunshine.  There was also time for an evening tour of their garden, the private allotments adjoining the garden which they own and manage, and the entrance to the woodland/wetlands beyond the allotments that are now owned by our friends and others in the community.  The various types of land they look after are lovely slices of nature.  They are also a labour of love although one task not needed is slug management – their chickens prodding around in the allotments seem to deal with that!

The excellent and copious hospitality we were given in terms of food and drink put my New Year resolution targets for weight and alcohol consumption under pressure but, as ever, it was great to catch up with old friends.  Plus, our target to have more days away from home exploring the UK was helped along.

New Year, New Trip

We chose Belfast rather than Edinburgh for Christmas but I couldn’t wait to see First Grandchild (FG) again and so we pitched up in Edinburgh early in January.  The added benefit of going then was that we could celebrate Eldest Son’s birthday with him.  As ever, we had a great time and experienced wonderful hospitality.

We did some of the usual things with an enthusiastic FG.  We spent a morning exploring the National Museum of Scotland and another wandering through the Royal Botanic Garden.  Both are great places to take toddlers and FG is very chatty now so trips like these are more pleasurable than ever. 

Morning Across Edinburgh To The Pentland Hills From The Royal Botanic Gardens

FG also has a soul mate in my wife, Jane, when it comes to visiting the cafés in these places.  Since I have pledged to overcome my fear of lukewarm/weak café coffee, and have added going to cafés when requested by Jane to my list of new year resolutions, I went along willingly with their desires.

We had driven up to Edinburgh and the journey was smooth with no problem with charging up the battery.  As a result, we had the option to drive FG and his parents beyond Edinburgh for an outing.  Since the weather was cold but clear, we chose to go to the beach at Yellowcraig near North Berwick. 

Yellowcraig Beach

We had a lovely time passing FG sticks, stones and chunks of seaweed that he could throw into the waves amid Yellowcraig’s open vistas and its big skies.

Looking North To North Berwick Law And Bass Rock From Yellowcraig Beach

Back in his flat, we threw ourselves into entertaining FG with drawing, tower building (and knocking them down), Playdoh moulding, and reading.  FG takes these activities very seriously and loves having control; I love that and it makes the times when he simply laughs and messes about even more enjoyable.  He’s developing so quickly. 

Before FG arrived, my wish was to see a grandchild before I died but now, inevitably, I want to live for decades so I see more and see them grow up. We are so looking forward to the arrival of a second grandchild in Bristol in a couple of months.

We did slip off for some ‘me-time’ too.  I walked down the Water of Leith to Leith town.  I’ve done that before but this time I went a little further to the edge of the port.  Leith is a vibrant town that is being transformed into a trendy outpost on the edge of Edinburgh with a new and frequent tram connection.  Next time we will try to get to see the Royal Yacht Britannia which has been retired to a berth there.

Late Afternoon In Leith And Leith Port
One Of Antony Gormley’s Water of Leith Statues Clad In A Hibernian Football Shirt For New Year

I also wandered through Stockbridge to see some of my favourite residential areas of Edinburgh.  We still debate whether moving to Edinburgh – or at least having a permanent second base there – would be viable and sensible.  The best Georgian flats and houses are lovely to look at and dream of owning.  More practically, a modern flat would be a better target but there’s no harm in looking! 

My Favourite (So Far) Edinburgh Square – Saxe Coburg Place

The drive home from Edinburgh always feels a lot less exciting than the journey up.  Although charging up the car was again problem-free on the way, there was an hour-long stoppage due to an accident a Range Rover towing a food truck strewn across three of the four lanes near Manchester – to further deflate the mood.  But getting home is always a relief and a pleasure of its own.  Now we are chilling out back in our weekly routine which includes evenings in front of the fire and series after series of streamed television. 

A Cosy Fire At Home

Until the next trip to Edinburgh and more memory creation with the little one…..

Heading To The Waves!

Richness of London

Some great and long-standing friends of ours from London visited us about a month ago.  During their stay they offered to put me, and Jane, up for a couple of nights in London so I could attend a ‘Boys Night Out’ with some other mutual friends.  These nights out with half a dozen other longstanding London-based friends have been going on for several years.  We meet each time in a restaurant where country’s cuisine matches our progression through the alphabet. 

From London Bridge (Unusually, With Tower Bridge Up)

We have made it through to ‘W’ which this time meant we had to meet in a Welsh, Western Samoan or Western Saharan restaurant.  Perhaps controversially given the current politics in north west Africa, we went for the latter and settled on a Moroccan restaurant in Covent Garden.  There, we were deposited in the basement where we were largely left to our own devices and had a relaxed evening of catch up while avoiding issues of Brexit, politics and climate change which might have provoked argument.  We may be mates but we have diverse views on life!

Visiting London for this evening out and capitalizing on the hospitality of our hosts, provided a great opportunity to experience the rich range of exhibitions and galleries of this great city.  Having sold my weekday bolt-hole 18 months ago, we rarely visit London these days.  We are no longer members of the big cultural institutions and hadn’t planned well enough in advance to see the most popular and celebrated exhibitions.  But exhibitions in the next tier down from the greatest were amusement enough.

Jane had accompanied me to London and, before she went off to meet up with London friends of her own, we went to the Natural History Museum to see the Wildlife Photographer of the Year exhibition.  I have visited this many times and always love the photographs and the way they are presented in backlit screens.  The range of material and the detail in the images is astounding to me.

From The Wildlife Photographers Exhibition – My Favourite I Think, By Olivier Gonnet

I hung around the Natural History Museum for a while to help me recall bringing our sons to the museum on many Saturday mornings when they were small.  I saw several of the rooms including the new dinosaur section (including a robotic, moving tyrannosaurus dressed as Father Christmas!), and a small but diverting exhibition of photos of research and military stations in the Arctic by Gregor Sailer.

One Of Gregor Sailer’s Photos

I then crossed London in wonderfully sunny weather, to the brand new Antony Gormley exhibition at White Cube Gallery

Classic Antony Gormley At The White Cube

The first thing that astonished there was the transformation since my last visit.  Then, all the rooms were filled with massive piles of rubble and shelving packed with dimly lit industrial artifacts put together by Anselm Kiefer in celebration of Finnegan’s Wake by James Joyce.  Gormley did fill the biggest of the rooms with more stone constructions – fired clay blocks positioned to represent 244 ‘body forms’ – but the whole exhibition was sparse and minimalist; a total contrast to Kiefer’s last exhibition here.

‘Resting Place’ By Antony Gormley (2023)

I was joined by one of our London hosts and together we did another circuit of the exhibition.  I enjoyed it.  I like the fact that I have now seen a range Gormley’s work in a variety of places and see at least some of the linkages and evolutions in his thinking.

We headed off to find a local Bermondsey pub for a pint (of Magazine Cover by DEYA Brewing Company – one of my favourite beers and local to our home not London) and a light lunch.  Then we ‘Citymappered’ our way to Greenwich to see the Astronomy Photographer of the Year exhibition at the National Maritime Museum.

Like the Wildlife Photography exhibition, this is an exhibition I have visited often over the last several years.  It tends to be more repetitive in terms of content than the wildlife photography but I find it amazing nonetheless. 

‘Aurora Over the Great Pollet Sea Arch’ (Donegal) By Brendan Alexander

I don’t really understand the techniques and equipment involved in producing the images.  Indeed, I admire the photos that are relatively simple single take shots rather than the ones clearly involving huge telescopes, time lapse photography and overlays of multiple pictures.  In any case, the results are, almost uniformly, incredibly beautiful.

‘A Rocky Rise’ (Pembrokeshire) By Carl Evans

We failed to get to the Royal Naval College in time to see the Painted Hall there before it closed for the day (my fault!).  But we did get some good views of the Cutty Sark and the Thames as the sun went down in a clear sky.

Next morning, Jane left for home and I made my way across London to Kings Cross to take a train to Nottingham.  Again, the weather was clear and bright.  I loved my walk across the centre of the city while renewing my acquaintance with London’s diversity, vibrancy and bustle.  Its such a rich city – in more ways than one!

The British Library And The St Pancras Renaissance Hotel, London

Then to Nottingham for a rather whistle-stop stay with my sister, a game of Mahjong, and a nice meal out with my Dad whose birthday followed the next day.  He is 92.  That is 90 years older than First Grandchild whose birthday we celebrated just a couple of weeks before.  Incredible!

Anniversary and Birthday in Edinburgh

Autumn is turning to winter but there is still some colour in the trees and the occasional sunny day provides a bit of autumnal sparkle.  I continue to feel fortunate to live in a pretty (but not prettified) part of Gloucestershire and we enjoyed showing it off a bit while some friends stayed with us at the end of October.  When the sun is low as it is now, the Cotswold stone of the houses glows beautifully and the crispening leaves on the trees glimmer in the breeze.

Local Autumn Colour

I am well behind on the bedding down of the garden and allotment for winter.  I have made some progress but, when the weather has been nice, I’ve tended to take the opportunity to go for local walks.  When the weather has been cold and wet, I’ve stayed close to the heating in our kitchen.  I feel that, as I get older, I feel the cold more than I did.

Chilly Early Starts

Our First Grandchild (FG) doesn’t seem to feel the cold anywhere near so much!  He is thriving up in Edinburgh.  We visited Edinburgh recently to celebrate his second birthday and his parents’ first wedding anniversary.  They have a lovely flat and, now there is a wood-burner in the lounge, a very cosy spot for the evenings.  FG can now lark about before bedtime in his nightwear – or just his nappy – without me feeling chilly by proxy. 

We stayed in Edinburgh for longer than usual but hopefully avoided overburdening the working parents by staying a couple of nights in a hotel rather than with them.  FG seemed to enjoy having two more people to order about especially once his birthday brought more toys for us all to play with. 

He also liked his usual trip with us to the Royal Botanic Garden, where we collected different colours and sizes of leaf.  It’s a wonderful, free resource regardless of the time of year.

Edinburgh’s Royal Botanic Gardens

On the actual day of his birthday, we all joined him on an extended visit to the National Museum of Scotland where he joyfully rushed from exhibit to exhibit.  It’s a great place for kids.

The National Museum Of Scotland

We had other lovely family outings in brilliant sunshine to Saughton Park, which had an interesting history and a goldfish pond which fascinated FG, and to Lauriston Castle gardens with its great views across the Firth of Forth.  Much to Jane’s satisfaction, each visit involved a café stop.  This is something that, when we are alone together, she finds hard to persuade me to indulge in.  With FG, it’s another little opportunity to watch him develop.

Lauriston Castle With The Firth Of Forth Beyond

It was convenient that we had our car, could get around easily with everyone, and that ES and his partner had some time off work so they could enjoy their anniversary and birthday fully.

Jane and I also went off on our own for perusal of Stockbridge’s shops (Jane) and walks by the Water of Leith (me).  The Water of Leith was gushing more than usual following the recent storms which made the riverside walk somehow even more pleasurable than usual, especially as the sun was shining.

We also managed to slide off for an hour in Spry, our favourite wine bar, and for a set of very tasty, innovative small lunch plates at Noto where Eldest Son (ES) and his partner had celebrated their anniversary a couple of nights before.

My Walk Along The Water Of Leith Led Me To Murrayfield

While FG and his parents went off to a birthday party of one of FG’s contemporaries in south Edinburgh, Jane and I took advantage of more sunny weather to climb Blackford Hill.  This afforded great views north of Arthur’s Seat and the city and I had a bit of an internal psychic glow knowing that this was where ES had proposed marriage.  

Views North From Blackford Hill

In between the anniversary and birthday festivities, and as the weather deteriorated, Jane and I visited the newly opened half of the National Gallery of Scotland.  This great new space doubles the size of the gallery and has some excellent works including many by the Glasgow Boys and the less renowned Glasgow Girls.

The New Galleries At The Scottish National Gallery

In a slight overdoing of cultural experience for one day, we also visited Dovecot Studios to see an exhibition called ‘Scottish Women Artists: Challenging 250 Years of Perception’.  This too had art by the Glasgow Girls.  I thought the exhibition was a bit uneven but particularly liked the works by Joan Eardley and a few others. 

Dovecote Studios: Scottish Women Artists (Including Joan Eardley And Alberta Whittle – bottom right and left respectively)

While we were in Edinburgh, ES’s partner cooked us lovely meals and we had great toast-laden breakfasts (Archipelago Bakery sells outstanding bread) plus a couple of substantial delivery meals from local food outlets.  Fortunately, this visit, we met ES’s partner’s parents again and we all tucked into an Indian spread while sharing FG-stories.  

FG’s birthday cake was a delightful mum-made ‘hedgehog cake’ with chocolate buttons for spines (he loved the candle blowing out process and the chocolate).  Later, his birthday dinner was a shared set of delivered pizzas.  Meals delivered to the door are rare treats for me; we don’t have them at home since the choice is limited and the distances feel too great.  I put on weight in Edinburgh but it was well worth it.

Birthday Joy

It’s a long way to Edinburgh and back in our car (though we again had no real problems with charging it up as we travelled).  But we love Edinburgh.  Jane and I know that had ES not met someone from there who wanted to settle in the city, we would not have had such an opportunity to get to know Edinburgh so well.  There is so much more to see there and we look forward to another trip for ES and his partners’ birthdays early next year.

Four Exhibitions, Three Sons, Two Breakfasts And One Gig

For much of my working life, I was in London while the family were in Gloucestershire.  I usually only got to see Long-Suffering Wife (LSW) and our three sons during weekends when work often intruded and I wanted to rest.  Then the sons grew up and each of them spent time with me sleeping on the floor of my London flat while they took their first steps into the world of work.  The flat is very small so, although I got to know each so much better, the close proximity and sleeping arrangements were sometimes a stress.

Now, Eldest Son (ES), Middle Son (MS) and Youngest Son (YS) are all based in London and I have entered something of a golden period as a parent.  Now I am able to see them in short spells and in a relaxed way – over dinner, at breakfast, at a gig or in an exhibition. All I have to do is schedule the rendezvous around their diaries and enjoy the moment.  I plan to make the most of these arrangements while they last.

Last week, I was up in London again and was able to see all three sons.  The main reason for visiting London was to see a gig by Nuria Graham.  I first saw her in 2015 at Rough Trade and have now seen her twice since.  She is Spanish with some Irish heritage and writes some great tunes with intriguing English lyrics.  YS and I saw her at Jazz Servant Quarters which was just the type of venue I like: tiny (capacity for only 40 people) with a great sound system.  I loved the whole evening and plan to visit Jazz Servant Quarters again and also see Nuria once more next April.

Nuria Graham At Jazz Servant Quarters

Nuria Graham At Jazz Servant Quarters

Next morning, having stayed with YS overnight on their ailing inflatable bed, we went with his girlfriend for breakfast at the new Ozone Cafe in Hackney.  I love the treat of breakfast in London.  It often includes unusual and quality ingredients, it sets me up for the day of city exploration and usually obviates the need for lunch.

Ozone, Hackney

Ozone, Hackney

The previous day I had breakfasted at one of my favourite cafes – Ask For Janice in Smithfield – and had felt full most of the day.  At Ozone, I was a little more restrained since I was meeting an old friend for lunch at The Coach in Clerkenwell later.  Nonetheless, breakfast was ample and excellent and, of course, given its Ozone pedigree already tried elsewhere in the City, achingly trendy.

While in London I also went for dinner at Smokestak with MS, ES and his girlfriend.  Smokestak is only one or two steps up from fast food – we were in and out in an hour – but the food was great and the atmosphere was buzzy.  As MS said, despite the restaurant being famous for its meat dishes (and I loved the fried ox cheek), the vegetarian plates were perhaps the best.  I certainly ate well during my London visit.

Across the two days I was in London I went to four exhibitions.  On LSW’s recommendation from the previous weekend, I went to the Royal Academy to see the large Antony Gormley exhibition (now finished).  It was certainly impressive – not least the engineering that had gone into making several of the rooms dramatic, single-piece displays.

More Anthony Gormley At The Royal Academy

Iron Baby (1999), Matrix (2019) and Clearing VII (2019) By Antony Gormley At The Royal Academy

One room was filled with seemingly continuous loops of metal (8 kilometres worth) resembling a huge circular scribble.  Another was a room filled with silt and water.  Another had two huge cast iron baubles hanging from the roof.  And then another had Gormley’s trademark human forms, also cast in iron, set at various angles and amongst which the crowds could meander.

Host (2019), Piles (2018), Lost Horizon (2008) and Fruit (1993) By Antony Gormley At The Royal Academy

Host (2019), Piles (2018), Lost Horizon (2008) and Fruit (1993) By Antony Gormley At The Royal Academy

These were all certainly memorable but, at the time, I confess I enjoyed looking at his numerous workbooks more.  These showed how the ideas were generated rather than the final forms and it was more calming to look at these rather than negotiate the crowds in the rooms holding Gormley’s main works.

Some Of Antony Gormley's Workbooks

Some Of Antony Gormley’s Workbooks

Subject II By Anthony Gormley At The Royal Academy

Subject II By Antony Gormley At The Royal Academy

The Bridget Riley Exhibition at the Hayward Gallery was also impressive.  Photos of much of her work don’t work because they play with our way of seeing so much.  For example, Horizontal Vibration (1961) really does seem to vibrate before your eyes. ‘Current’ (1964) is like an optical illusion that feels destabilising if looked at for more than a few seconds.  These are clever and, I’m sure, were ground-breaking in their time but I love her brightly coloured works with stripes and diagonals more.

Though organised by topic rather than chronologically, the exhibition did a good job of tracing her thinking from her early drawings and the influence of Seurat on her work.  It covered her black and white visual exercises, her moves into curves and then colour and, finally, recent works that resembled Hirst’s dot paintings but which were clearly rooted in what she has done before.  The exhibition was an enlightening and cheering way to pass an afternoon.

Stripes And Diagonals By Bridget Riley At The Hayward Gallery

Currents (1961) And Stripes And Diagonals By Bridget Riley At The Hayward Gallery

I squeezed in a visit to the British Library to see the Buddhism exhibition there. Most of the exhibits were brilliantly, brightly coloured 19th century picture books showing the events in the life of the historical Buddah. There were also much older scrolls, wood panels and palm leaves inscribed with delicate texts and images. Once more, it was hard not to be impressed but, for me, the exhibition lacked a theme and was little more than the sum of its parts.

A Scroll Depicting Mahakala (A Protector Deity) And Tales From The Historical Buddha's Life In Folding Books

A 16th Century Tibetan Scroll Depicting Mahakala (A Protector Deity) And Tales From The Historical Buddha’s Life In 19th Century Folding Books

Nepalese Buddhist Palm Leaf Texts (17th and 12th Century)

Nepalese Buddhist Palm Leaf Texts (17th and 12th Century)

The fourth (and, in my view, best) exhibition I saw was that of a recent body of work by Anselm Keifer at White Cube Gallery in Bermondsey.  Anselm had been featured the day before I visited in the Guardian newspaper and the exhibition had been recommended by a friend.  I had not heard of Anselm previously and I went with no great expectations.

As soon as I entered the gallery I was blown away by the rhythm and enormity of the work in the central hall and then, as I moved into the adjoining rooms, by the scale of the paintings, their depth and the overall sense of brooding dystopia.  The paintings worked from a distance and right up close and I was fascinated even though I didn’t really understand what I was seeing.

Superstrings, Runes, The Norns, Gordian Knot By Anselm Keifer

Superstrings, Runes, The Norns, Gordian Knot By Anselm Keifer (Here Showing Just Part Of A 30 Vitrine Installation)

The White Cube is a tremendous, huge space; it needed to be to accommodate the work.  The exhibition is on until 26 January next year and I would like to go again (unlike the other exhibitions I saw, its free!).

The White Cube Gallery With Anselm Keifer Paintings

The White Cube Gallery With Anselm Keifer Paintings

Anselm Keifer At White Cube

The Gordian Knot By Anselm Keifer At White Cube (With A Real Axe And Real Blackened Branches)

Superstrings By Anselm Kiefer At White Cube Gallery

Superstrings By Anselm Kiefer At White Cube Gallery

I’m planning one more visit to London before Christmas.  I’m looking forward to another round of exhibitions, breakfasts and meeting up with one or more of our sons.