Art, Gardens and a Big Anniversary

Our time in Edinburgh – the bread on either side of our Fife sandwich filling – was busy. 

We did some of the usual things with First Grandchild (FG); going to the playground, visiting the National Museum of Scotland and meeting his hopeful requests: ‘can you play with me?’. 

Playing Cards With First Grandchild (FG)
Playing Cards With First Grandchild (FG)

We also went to the Museum Of Childhood for the first time.  FG loved the activities available and we liked the nostalgia of seeing the toys from our own childhoods and those of our sons.  Entrance to the museum was free and we will definitely be going back with FG.

Construction Toys From My Youth Including Betta Builder, My Favourite
A Display of Toys From My Youth At The Edinburgh Museum Of Childhood, Including Betta Bilda, One Of My Favourites

FG also had a tremendous time at the Newhailes Gardens and Adventure Park near Musselburgh.  This is owned by the Scottish National Trust and is a wonderful facility.  I wandered the grounds while FG loved all the activities.  I then joined him to build towers, and to watch him get some experience of sack and egg and spoon races.

Newhailes House, Front And Back
Newhailes House, Front And Back

We did spend some time away from our Edinburgh family so they could get back to something resembling their routine.  A huge highlight of this was a visit to the Andy Goldsworthy exhibition at the National Gallery of Scotland.  Based on reviews I had seen, I was expecting great things and it truly was an excellent display.  The exhibition was so good, I’ll cover our visit in a separate blog post after this one.

Jane and I visited a few other galleries while in Edinburgh.  In the basement of the National Gallery was an exhibition of work by Paul Furneaux who we know our Eldest Son admires.  I liked his paintings too.

'Temple Path' By Paul Furneaux At the Scottish National Gallery
‘Temple Path’ By Paul Furneaux At the Scottish National Gallery

Furneaux also featured in the Open Eye Gallery which is always worth visiting as was The Scottish Gallery opposite.  The latter had an exhibition of paintings by Alexander Goudie who I enjoyed getting to know a bit.

Another Painting BY Paul Furneuax, This Time At The Open Eye Gallery, Edinburgh
Another Painting By Paul Furneuax (‘Rain City’), This Time At The Open Eye Gallery, Edinburgh

One afternoon, I slipped off and went to a free show of Post-Modern art at the City Art Centre.  A little embarrassingly, I got told off for taking a photo here (see below, top) – I just didn’t see the signs prohibiting photography.  Otherwise, my visit was very satisfactory as previous shows there have been.  I particularly enjoyed the rather macabre painting by John Bellany of men gutting fish (also below).  Bellany had a separate (but not free) exhibition at the centre but I didn’t pop in.

Scottish Post Modern Art At The City Art Centre, Edinburgh
Scottish Post Modern Art At The City Art Centre, Edinburgh

Jane and I also visited the Scottish National Gallery of Modern Art briefly to see three or four rooms of works by Louise Bourgeois, Robert Mapplethorpe and Helen Chadwick.  This was mildly diverting but only Bourgeois’s spider, which we had both seen variants of before at the Hayward Gallery in London, and the famous photo of Mapplethorpe’s disembodied head (see below) left much of an impression  on me.

Beyond the art and beyond Edinburgh, we also took some time out to explore some gardens.  Recalling these visits now reminds me that I failed to mention in my last blog post a very pleasant hour or so spent in the St Andrews Botanic Garden during our time in Fife.  It was a longer walk out of the St Andrews town centre than we expected but well worth a visit to see a rather wild and experimental garden that is investigating how gardens, and the insects that live in them, can cope with our changing climate. Semi-wild gardens, busy with insect life, can be very attractive at this time of year.

St Andrews Botanic Gardens
St Andrews Botanic Gardens

Now we travelled south from Edinburgh to the Pentland Hills and Tweed Valley to Dawyck Botanic Garden.  This is a 65-acre arboretum with a lot of mature indigenous trees and a large number planted using seed collected a couple of centuries ago in America by a traveller called David Douglas.  He met a sticky end in Hawaii after falling into an animal trap already occupied by a bull, but his legacy at Dawyck is impressive. 

Dawyck Botanic Garden
Dawyck Botanic Garden, Scottish Borders

The setting is lovely with gorgeous views across heavily wooded valleys to open hillsides beyond.  It would be worth visiting again in Spring when more of the azaleas and rhododendrons are in flower.

We then went on to  Little Sparta, the home and garden of Scottish poet and artist Ian Hamilton Finlay whose work I have often seen in various places in and around Edinburgh including, during this visit, the City Art Centre. This year is the centenary of his birth.

Little Sparta
Little Sparta, South Lanarkshire

The garden is in the middle of nowhere.  It is both a little chaotic and very sweet.  Throughout the garden are little paths and about 200 individual art works from golden heads to simple inscriptions and stone sculptures.  I particularly liked the open area beyond the wooded garden which included an attractive lake.

Little Sparta
Little Sparta

Of course, we ate and drank well while in Edinburgh as usual.  A highlight was a drink at the Newbarns Brewery and Taproom followed by an excellent dinner at Ardfern.  We will be going to both (and Ardfern’s sister restaurants) again.

Our stay in Edinburgh was completed with a rather splendid lunch at Timberyard.  This was with our extended Edinburgh family including ES’s wife’s parents and was to celebrate Jane and my 40th wedding anniversary.  FG provided the rubies from his toy treasure chest and then got on with some drawing, leaving us to enjoy a splendid three courses.  The restaurant is a lovely space and the service and food are top notch. 

Timberyard, Edinburgh
Timberyard, Edinburgh

ES’s wife asked what advice we had, given we have achieved 40 married years together.  I mumbled something about needing patience to adjust as circumstances and each partner change at different times.  I’m not sure if retirement brings a requirement for more patience.  Certainly, intermittent contact with grandchildren and no work to worry about allows much more time to think about getting along than full blown parental childcare and employment ever did!

We took our time over Timberyard’s food but there was still time to take in England Woman’s Football Team winning the European Championship after extra time and penalties.  It was a thrilling end to a lovely week and a half in Scotland.

Anniversary and Birthday in Edinburgh

Autumn is turning to winter but there is still some colour in the trees and the occasional sunny day provides a bit of autumnal sparkle.  I continue to feel fortunate to live in a pretty (but not prettified) part of Gloucestershire and we enjoyed showing it off a bit while some friends stayed with us at the end of October.  When the sun is low as it is now, the Cotswold stone of the houses glows beautifully and the crispening leaves on the trees glimmer in the breeze.

Local Autumn Colour

I am well behind on the bedding down of the garden and allotment for winter.  I have made some progress but, when the weather has been nice, I’ve tended to take the opportunity to go for local walks.  When the weather has been cold and wet, I’ve stayed close to the heating in our kitchen.  I feel that, as I get older, I feel the cold more than I did.

Chilly Early Starts

Our First Grandchild (FG) doesn’t seem to feel the cold anywhere near so much!  He is thriving up in Edinburgh.  We visited Edinburgh recently to celebrate his second birthday and his parents’ first wedding anniversary.  They have a lovely flat and, now there is a wood-burner in the lounge, a very cosy spot for the evenings.  FG can now lark about before bedtime in his nightwear – or just his nappy – without me feeling chilly by proxy. 

We stayed in Edinburgh for longer than usual but hopefully avoided overburdening the working parents by staying a couple of nights in a hotel rather than with them.  FG seemed to enjoy having two more people to order about especially once his birthday brought more toys for us all to play with. 

He also liked his usual trip with us to the Royal Botanic Garden, where we collected different colours and sizes of leaf.  It’s a wonderful, free resource regardless of the time of year.

Edinburgh’s Royal Botanic Gardens

On the actual day of his birthday, we all joined him on an extended visit to the National Museum of Scotland where he joyfully rushed from exhibit to exhibit.  It’s a great place for kids.

The National Museum Of Scotland

We had other lovely family outings in brilliant sunshine to Saughton Park, which had an interesting history and a goldfish pond which fascinated FG, and to Lauriston Castle gardens with its great views across the Firth of Forth.  Much to Jane’s satisfaction, each visit involved a café stop.  This is something that, when we are alone together, she finds hard to persuade me to indulge in.  With FG, it’s another little opportunity to watch him develop.

Lauriston Castle With The Firth Of Forth Beyond

It was convenient that we had our car, could get around easily with everyone, and that ES and his partner had some time off work so they could enjoy their anniversary and birthday fully.

Jane and I also went off on our own for perusal of Stockbridge’s shops (Jane) and walks by the Water of Leith (me).  The Water of Leith was gushing more than usual following the recent storms which made the riverside walk somehow even more pleasurable than usual, especially as the sun was shining.

We also managed to slide off for an hour in Spry, our favourite wine bar, and for a set of very tasty, innovative small lunch plates at Noto where Eldest Son (ES) and his partner had celebrated their anniversary a couple of nights before.

My Walk Along The Water Of Leith Led Me To Murrayfield

While FG and his parents went off to a birthday party of one of FG’s contemporaries in south Edinburgh, Jane and I took advantage of more sunny weather to climb Blackford Hill.  This afforded great views north of Arthur’s Seat and the city and I had a bit of an internal psychic glow knowing that this was where ES had proposed marriage.  

Views North From Blackford Hill

In between the anniversary and birthday festivities, and as the weather deteriorated, Jane and I visited the newly opened half of the National Gallery of Scotland.  This great new space doubles the size of the gallery and has some excellent works including many by the Glasgow Boys and the less renowned Glasgow Girls.

The New Galleries At The Scottish National Gallery

In a slight overdoing of cultural experience for one day, we also visited Dovecot Studios to see an exhibition called ‘Scottish Women Artists: Challenging 250 Years of Perception’.  This too had art by the Glasgow Girls.  I thought the exhibition was a bit uneven but particularly liked the works by Joan Eardley and a few others. 

Dovecote Studios: Scottish Women Artists (Including Joan Eardley And Alberta Whittle – bottom right and left respectively)

While we were in Edinburgh, ES’s partner cooked us lovely meals and we had great toast-laden breakfasts (Archipelago Bakery sells outstanding bread) plus a couple of substantial delivery meals from local food outlets.  Fortunately, this visit, we met ES’s partner’s parents again and we all tucked into an Indian spread while sharing FG-stories.  

FG’s birthday cake was a delightful mum-made ‘hedgehog cake’ with chocolate buttons for spines (he loved the candle blowing out process and the chocolate).  Later, his birthday dinner was a shared set of delivered pizzas.  Meals delivered to the door are rare treats for me; we don’t have them at home since the choice is limited and the distances feel too great.  I put on weight in Edinburgh but it was well worth it.

Birthday Joy

It’s a long way to Edinburgh and back in our car (though we again had no real problems with charging it up as we travelled).  But we love Edinburgh.  Jane and I know that had ES not met someone from there who wanted to settle in the city, we would not have had such an opportunity to get to know Edinburgh so well.  There is so much more to see there and we look forward to another trip for ES and his partners’ birthdays early next year.