Anniversary and Birthday in Edinburgh

Autumn is turning to winter but there is still some colour in the trees and the occasional sunny day provides a bit of autumnal sparkle.  I continue to feel fortunate to live in a pretty (but not prettified) part of Gloucestershire and we enjoyed showing it off a bit while some friends stayed with us at the end of October.  When the sun is low as it is now, the Cotswold stone of the houses glows beautifully and the crispening leaves on the trees glimmer in the breeze.

Local Autumn Colour

I am well behind on the bedding down of the garden and allotment for winter.  I have made some progress but, when the weather has been nice, I’ve tended to take the opportunity to go for local walks.  When the weather has been cold and wet, I’ve stayed close to the heating in our kitchen.  I feel that, as I get older, I feel the cold more than I did.

Chilly Early Starts

Our First Grandchild (FG) doesn’t seem to feel the cold anywhere near so much!  He is thriving up in Edinburgh.  We visited Edinburgh recently to celebrate his second birthday and his parents’ first wedding anniversary.  They have a lovely flat and, now there is a wood-burner in the lounge, a very cosy spot for the evenings.  FG can now lark about before bedtime in his nightwear – or just his nappy – without me feeling chilly by proxy. 

We stayed in Edinburgh for longer than usual but hopefully avoided overburdening the working parents by staying a couple of nights in a hotel rather than with them.  FG seemed to enjoy having two more people to order about especially once his birthday brought more toys for us all to play with. 

He also liked his usual trip with us to the Royal Botanic Garden, where we collected different colours and sizes of leaf.  It’s a wonderful, free resource regardless of the time of year.

Edinburgh’s Royal Botanic Gardens

On the actual day of his birthday, we all joined him on an extended visit to the National Museum of Scotland where he joyfully rushed from exhibit to exhibit.  It’s a great place for kids.

The National Museum Of Scotland

We had other lovely family outings in brilliant sunshine to Saughton Park, which had an interesting history and a goldfish pond which fascinated FG, and to Lauriston Castle gardens with its great views across the Firth of Forth.  Much to Jane’s satisfaction, each visit involved a café stop.  This is something that, when we are alone together, she finds hard to persuade me to indulge in.  With FG, it’s another little opportunity to watch him develop.

Lauriston Castle With The Firth Of Forth Beyond

It was convenient that we had our car, could get around easily with everyone, and that ES and his partner had some time off work so they could enjoy their anniversary and birthday fully.

Jane and I also went off on our own for perusal of Stockbridge’s shops (Jane) and walks by the Water of Leith (me).  The Water of Leith was gushing more than usual following the recent storms which made the riverside walk somehow even more pleasurable than usual, especially as the sun was shining.

We also managed to slide off for an hour in Spry, our favourite wine bar, and for a set of very tasty, innovative small lunch plates at Noto where Eldest Son (ES) and his partner had celebrated their anniversary a couple of nights before.

My Walk Along The Water Of Leith Led Me To Murrayfield

While FG and his parents went off to a birthday party of one of FG’s contemporaries in south Edinburgh, Jane and I took advantage of more sunny weather to climb Blackford Hill.  This afforded great views north of Arthur’s Seat and the city and I had a bit of an internal psychic glow knowing that this was where ES had proposed marriage.  

Views North From Blackford Hill

In between the anniversary and birthday festivities, and as the weather deteriorated, Jane and I visited the newly opened half of the National Gallery of Scotland.  This great new space doubles the size of the gallery and has some excellent works including many by the Glasgow Boys and the less renowned Glasgow Girls.

The New Galleries At The Scottish National Gallery

In a slight overdoing of cultural experience for one day, we also visited Dovecot Studios to see an exhibition called ‘Scottish Women Artists: Challenging 250 Years of Perception’.  This too had art by the Glasgow Girls.  I thought the exhibition was a bit uneven but particularly liked the works by Joan Eardley and a few others. 

Dovecote Studios: Scottish Women Artists (Including Joan Eardley And Alberta Whittle – bottom right and left respectively)

While we were in Edinburgh, ES’s partner cooked us lovely meals and we had great toast-laden breakfasts (Archipelago Bakery sells outstanding bread) plus a couple of substantial delivery meals from local food outlets.  Fortunately, this visit, we met ES’s partner’s parents again and we all tucked into an Indian spread while sharing FG-stories.  

FG’s birthday cake was a delightful mum-made ‘hedgehog cake’ with chocolate buttons for spines (he loved the candle blowing out process and the chocolate).  Later, his birthday dinner was a shared set of delivered pizzas.  Meals delivered to the door are rare treats for me; we don’t have them at home since the choice is limited and the distances feel too great.  I put on weight in Edinburgh but it was well worth it.

Birthday Joy

It’s a long way to Edinburgh and back in our car (though we again had no real problems with charging it up as we travelled).  But we love Edinburgh.  Jane and I know that had ES not met someone from there who wanted to settle in the city, we would not have had such an opportunity to get to know Edinburgh so well.  There is so much more to see there and we look forward to another trip for ES and his partners’ birthdays early next year.

Edinburgh: Same Trip, Different Model

For our latest visit to Edinburgh, we changed the accommodation model from what we have done in the past.  This time we stayed in an Airbnb, converted mews building rather than stay in Eldest Son (ES) and his wife’s flat.  That meant we felt we could stay in Edinburgh for longer – a full week this time – and not be a burden on them as they worked and went about their daily lives. 

Edinburgh New Town (From Calton Hill) – Where First Grandchild Lives!

Because our accommodation was so close to them, we were able to pop over for, or just after, breakfast to see First Grandchild (FG) and, on his nursery days, enjoy the novelty of taking him to his nursery.  Overall, we saw ES, his wife and FG as much as ever, but they and we could also enjoy a bit more independence.  It worked for us anyway!

Our first few days were those when FG doesn’t go to nursery and so we had fun with him in Inverleith Park, the Royal Botanic Garden and the National Portrait Gallery (where FG ignored the art but loved going up and down the flights of steps).  We also loved playing with him at home playing with his toys.  It had been almost two months since we had last seen FG and, at his age (just over 18 months), that is a long time and a lot of growing up.  The way he now plays with his toys using his imagination in conversation with them is the main development I noticed.

Edinburgh Skyline From Inverleith Park

The highlight of these early days of our stay was a car trip to Jupiter Artland to the south west of Edinburgh.  This is an outdoor sculpture park exhibiting a wide variety of works of contemporary artists set in over 100 acres of woodland and open grassland.  It is a very impressive venture founded in 2009 by philanthropist art collectors Robert and Nicky Wilson. 

Jupiter Artland: Works By Shane Waltner, Ian Hamilton Finlay, Anish Kapoor And Cornelia Parker

FG walked with us but was a little bemused by our occasional sheltering under trees to avoid the showers.  He seemed to particularly enjoy the ‘Weeping Girls’ (rather macabre bronze figures looking very sad) by Laura Ford and the ‘Temple of Apollo’ by Ian Hamilton Finlay which had the sort of steps that he loves. 

Jupiter Artland: One Of The ‘Weeping Girls’ By Laura Ford

I believe that he also enjoyed the snacks at the café.  While he tried those out, I popped off to get a closer look at the earthworks by Charles Jencks that we had driven past on the way in to Jupiter Artland.  They are larger versions of those outside the Scottish Museum of Modern Art and are quite dramatic, especially as the heavens opened for another shower.

Jupiter Artland: Charles Jencks’ ‘Cells Of Life’

On the Sunday we had a lovely lunch with ES’s wife’s parents.  ES has certainly married into a family that knows hospitality and how to cook.  We had great breakfasts fueled by bread from excellent Archipelago Bakery and delightful gooseberry jam home made by ES’s mother-in-law.  On our Edinburgh visits ES’s wife has repeatedly demonstrated calm and efficient cooking of lovely meals and she did so again.  ES wasn’t to be outshone and he treated us to a very tasty vegetable curry too.  Overall, and as usual, we ate very well.

We also drank well including at our favourite Edinburgh bar, Spry and at Kay’s Bar which is a tiny, intimate pub tucked away in a side street right next to our Airbnb accommodation. 

Kay’s Bar, Edinburgh

Once we had dropped FG off at nursery – he seemed entirely unfazed by the change in those accompanying him – Jane and I had several hours in which to relax and see the sights of Edinburgh.  Our main excursion within Edinburgh was past the noisy royalists and noisier anti-royalists lining the Royal Mile to watch King Charles receive the Scottish crown jewels, and on to the National Museum of Scotland

‘Not My King’ Protesters On The Royal Mile, Edinburgh

There we saw an exhibition called Beyond the Little Black Dress.  This traced the history of the little black dress as a fashion item since the 1920’s to the present (and, with a bit of foresight, into the future).  Even I could see that the dresses were spectacularly good and almost all the famous designers I know were represented. 

The Little Black Dress Exhibition At The Scottish National Museum

Rather than follow a purely chronological route, the exhibition was mainly structured around themes that have underpinned the use of the little black dress by designers and those who wear it.  There were sections on ‘Well Mannered Black’ (emphasising elegance during cocktail hour), ‘Spiritual Black’ (reflecting religious undertones), ‘Subcultural Black’ (such as the Goth look), and ‘Subversive Black’ (including the erotic and nuances of bondage).  Others showed, for instance, how Japanese designers used different ‘Shades of Black’ and how sustainable fashion is emerging. 

Little Black Dresses At The Exhibition At The Scottish National Museum (With A 3-D Printed Dress Bottom Right)

I liked the displays very much and I felt I learnt something in an area I know little about.  I was particularly struck by the last exhibit which was a short video called ‘Her Dreams Are Bigger’ by Osman Yousefzada.  This showed poor textile workers in Bangladesh – the sort that make mass-produced little black dresses – and related what they imagined the wearers of the clothes they make do and think.  The punchline is in the title of the video.  It was quite unexpectedly moving.

While Jane went off to peruse shops, I walked over to Old Calton Burial Ground and Calton Hill.  Both offered great views of Edinburgh in wonderfully sunny weather and clear air. 

Old Calton Burial Ground

I hadn’t seen the burial ground before and it is a secluded, private space easily overlooked by tourists.  It is dominated by a tall obelisk erected in memory of members of the Friends of the People who campaigned for universal suffrage in the late 18th century but who were deported to Australia for their efforts.  It got me researching ‘one man one vote’ campaigns and I was amazed to find out how long it took for rich property owners to lose their monopoly of electoral privilege.  It was only in the early 20th century that the UK passed legislation to enable all men to vote; womens’ suffrage followed shortly after.

View Across Edinburgh Old Town From Calton Hill

On another day, Jane and I popped into The Scottish Gallery, a private gallery which had completely changed its exhibitions since the last time we visited and now included some lovely porcelain pottery by Jack Doherty (not someone I knew but who Jane follows and likes). 

Jane and I also visited both buildings comprising the Scottish National Gallery of Modern Art where I briefly revisited the retrospective of Alberta Whittle’s work (and, as during our last visit, enjoyed the abstract watercolours more than the more prominent fabric and photo-collage works).  We wandered through the galleries and again I was struck by the number of famous artists (that is, the ones I know!) represented on the walls.  It was nice to be able to spend the time rather aimlessly taking in such a wide range of art.

Modern Art Galleries of Scotland 1 and 2

The relative flexibility of our longer stay in Edinburgh than usual (without impinging overmuch on ES and his wife) and the fact that we drove up (with no recharging delays or issues at all) and so had a car with us, afforded the opportunity to travel further afield.  I’ll cover our day trip to Glasgow separately……

Arthur’s Seat From Calton Hill

Places to Go, Things to Do

Our three sons came from Edinburgh, Bristol and Belfast to stay with us to attend Jane’s Mum’s funeral and then my birthday brunch.  The funeral was very well attended and passed flawlessly, peacefully and movingly.  My birthday was low key but very enjoyable.  It was great to have all three sons in one place for the first time for a while, to hear them banter with each other, and to chat to.

Beautiful Funeral Flowers

Two of them asked, independently, what on earth I fills my time in retirement.  I’m not sure I was entirely candid about my occasional post-lunch snoozes or the rather excessive amount of time I spend looking at my mobile phone – though they are also fairly guilty of the latter so they would understand.  But what struck me once again as I tried to answer is how busy my life still seems to be. 

The routine of walking to the nearest town for the daily shopping and the newspaper, reading that newspaper and the weekly Economist magazine, preparing lunch and (50% of the time) dinner, all takes up hours of relatively relaxed time.  I spend up to a day a week in local climate action and other village activities and another half a day at the Stroud Foodbank.  I have recently inserted an hour or two of gardening into the routine (not enough, but it’s a start) partially at the cost of my frequent walks around the local countryside that usually constitute my main exercise.

Peak Bluebells And Wild Garlic

The early evenings comprise of the ‘Quick Crossword’ over a cup of tea and/or visits to the local pub.  Later, we watch streamed TV series (we tend to gravitate to dark European crime thrillers) and then its time for the BBC News, 15 minutes reading in bed and sleep. 

So, even in weeks without trips to Edinburgh or funerals to attend (and there have been two in the last month unfortunately), I feel pretty occupied.  How did I fit 10 hours a mid-week day on work?  It was interesting to hear Middle Son start to feel the same way now he has given up his job for a bit of downtime before a ‘gap-month’ travelling in Columbia.  He too seems to have found that available time just gets filled with activity.  In retirement, those activities are mainly non-urgent and discretionary; suits me!

Our trip to Edinburgh last month to see First Grandchild (FG) and his parents was as rewarding as usual.  FG is discovering the desire to exert control and is developing a temper, a willingness to do things but only at his pace and when he is ready, and a sense of humour.  Its lovely to see his development in the videos we are sent but even more so face to face.  Maybe I just lack the recall power but I think work got in the way of appreciating all of this in my own children at FG’s age.

The Splendid Roof Of The Scottish National Museum’s Main Hall

As usual, taking FG out to the National Museum of Scotland, to the Royal Botanic Garden and to the local playgrounds were highpoints during our Edinburgh trip.  It’s wonderful to see that everything through his eyes is so new and something to learn about. 

Royal Botanic Garden, Edinburgh: Rhododendrons Out In April!

However, there were many other treats amid the hospitality offered by Eldest Son and his wife and the fun of being with FG.  Jane and I walked to Leith where I bought her birthday present in advance and with her close guidance.  On the way back we stopped off at Spry, our favourite wine bar in the city. 

We also visited the Scottish National Gallery of Modern Art to see an exhibition of Alberta Whittle’s work.  We had seen an exhibition by her in Bath a few months earlier which we had enjoyed.  However, although the exhibition in Edinburgh was much broader in ambition, neither of us enjoyed the individual works so much this time.

‘Taking A Leap Toward The Ancestors’ By Alberta Whittle (2022)

Our cultural immersion while in Edinburgh continued with a brief stop at the private The Scottish Gallery (mainly to see some pretty floral paintings by Angie Lewin) before exceeding all our daily steps targets by crossing the city again to visit the Dovecot Studios.  This was a real highlight.

Part of the Kaffe Fassett ‘Power Of Pattern’ Exhibition

Not only was there an excellent exhibition of textiles by and inspired by Kaffe Fassett called ‘The Power of Pattern’, but the tapestry studios themselves were fascinating.  I was only vaguely familiar with Kaffe Fassett but I loved a lot of the work on show here – mainly because of the vibrancy of the colour – and I learned a lot about his philosophy, way of working and his collaborations with others. 

Close-ups Of Quilted and Tapestry Works By Kaffe Fassett And Followers

The tapestry studios at Dovecote are restored and re-purposed swimming baths that were part of the now defunct infirmary.  The space is airy and dramatic.  The floor – what presumably was the bottom of the swimming pool – is an art space that is currently occupied by a series of looms of varying sizes and types.  Each contained part-finished tapestries that suggested the huge effort that has to go into each.  Upstairs, completed tapestries illustrating various techniques and styles are on display.  We really enjoyed the experience.

Dovecot Studios

To round out the cultural aspect of our Edinburgh trip, I also managed an hour or so in the Scottish National Portrait Gallery.  The entrance hall is stunning and I wanted to see that again.  Inside there was no special exhibition this time but the permanent displays – especially the modern section – were interesting enough.

The Scottish National Portrait Gallery Atrium

The Scottish National Portrait Gallery: Two Unusual, Medical Portraits (By Ken Currie)

Back home we have been enjoying an admittedly rather wet spring.  The wild garlic, bluebells and cow parsley adorn the lanes and the woods.  In the garden, the daffodils, the amelanchier and most of the tulips have been and gone but there are allium flower heads about to burst and green shoots everywhere.  In our lush and green field cum orchard, the cowslips and wild geraniums have proliferated and our eyes are peeled for orchids.

Exotic Garden Tulips And Perfect Apple Blossom

A recent visit to The Ethicurean with Middle Son and his partner for Sunday lunch included a wander around the gardens that provide many of the vegetable ingredients for the cooking.  The lunch itself was multi-course but much more than a tasting menu; it was really imaginative, tasty and filling, and delivered at a perfectly slow pace in the gorgeous surroundings of a converted Victorian greenhouse.  We’ll go again.

The Rather Wonderful The Ethicurean Restaurant

Since then, rather inspired by The Ethicurean’s gardens, I have made progress in clearing most of the vegetable patches, planting beetroot, chard, onions and potatoes and getting bean, courgette and squash seeds on the go. 

This year I have applied a method Jane used for some of her flower seeds to the germination of the beans seeds I recovered from my last two harvests.  Instead of popping them in composted seed trays, I put them between two sheets of wet kitchen roll and put the result in zip lock plastic bags.  I left the bags on the floor of our kitchen which has underfloor heating and, lo and behold, I had a 100% success rate for germination! 

My (Janes!) New Ziplock Plastic Bag Method Of Seed Germination

I have transferred the germinated beans to the small pots and now hope they will grow on with, unlike previous years, zero seed wastage.  Success in a busy retirement schedule is sweet!