A Bath Trip and Interesting Fungi

As part of our joint New Year Resolution to get out and about more when the sun is shining, Jane and I went to Bath earlier this month.  We always enjoy visiting Bath, in part because the architecture reminds us of Edinburgh which we have also come to love, but also in its own right. 

One Of The Georgian Crescents Below Sion Hill, Bath

Jane always seems to find a treasured, discreet parking spot on Sion Hill.  The walk from there to the centre of town takes us past takes us past Georgian terraces and crescents and through big open grassy slopes with broad vistas.  It is an early treat on our visits, especially on a sunny day.  Then in the city centre, there are the impressive squares and circuses of intact Georgian houses, the river and its bridges, and the Roman Baths and Cathedral, all clad in wonderful local stone.

Bath Cathedral

A highlight of most of our Bath visits is the opportunity to pick up sourdough bread from Landrace bakery in Walcot Street.  It is simply our favourite bread.  This time we also visited The Fine Cheese Company a few doors along.  The service from the French chap behind the counter was a little snooty (perhaps because we enquired about English cheese) but he was very efficient in giving us a taster of the smooth and luscious Old Winchester cheese which we went away with.

The Royal Crescent, Bath

Jane had spotted that there was an exhibition of Gwen John’s work on at the The Holburne Museum and, for all the attractions of picking up top quality bread and cheese, seeing that was the prime purpose of our Bath trip.  I was only vaguely familiar with Gwen John following a recent conversation with friends in our village who had seen an exhibition of her work in Chichester.  They had recommended it and, anyway, I trust Jane on choosing worthwhile exhibitions like this one. 

The exhibition proved to be small but interesting.  Gwen John was clearly a formidable and influential woman.  It seems that her popularity has grown since her death but in life she mixed with, modelled for and inspired a wide range of other artists and produced attractive and innovative paintings.  I particularly liked the set of paintings on show called the ‘Convalescent Series’.  These are portraits with muted colours with an unusual surface texture apparently produced by the oil paint soaking into a chalky glue mix which caused bubbles and then small perforations in the finish.

‘Woman Seated’; Part Of ‘The Convalescent Series’ by Gwen John

When Jane and I met up outside the exhibition room afterwards we both said how much we had enjoyed John’s paintings but, amusingly, we both through that the best painting on show was one that was hung to illustrate her influence on other artists.  This was an interior with a single female figure by a Dane, Vilhelm Hammershøi.  We both thought it lovely.

‘Interior With Writing Table And A Young Woman’ by Vilhelm Hammershøi

I recall seeing a Hammershøi painting in the Musee D’Orsay in Paris last year when I began to appreciate his work for the first time.  I love his understated views of rooms, his grey palette and the ambiguity that stems from not being able to see the faces of the figures in his pictures – or the lack of a figure at all in the case of the painting I saw in Paris.

Alongside the Gwen John exhibition was a small exhibition of rather strange works by Gillian Lowndes.  The point of these seemed to be to mix as many different materials as possible so they looked like weird debris dug up from a brownfield industrial site somewhere.  The results weren’t uninteresting but I wasn’t moved by them.

Two Of The Works By Gillian Lowndes On Show At The Holburne Museum

The Holburne Museum also had a display by Lubaina Himid called Lost Threads.  This involved piles and streams of beautiful, brightly coloured Dutch textiles strewn across the floors of the museum rooms and woven between the pillars at the front of the building.  Jane and I had been to see a substantial exhibition of her work at Tate Modern a couple of years ago.  Like then, while we enjoyed the vibrant colours, we weren’t bowled over by works.

The Holburne Museum Clad With Textiles By Lubiana Himid

Having got a dose of culture, we went for lunch at Oak.  We had a very tasty lunch of vegetarian small plates.  These arrived at a relaxed and, for us, ideal pace – always a pleasant surprise in small plates-oriented restaurants where, too often, things seem to arrive with a timing to suit the chef not the customers.

My life back at home has been largely routine.  The weather hasn’t been very conducive to gardening and, while I have recommenced work in the field, there is still a lot to do to ready the vegetable patches for the new season and to plant some pot-bound trees I acquired a couple of years ago. 

The weather hasn’t stopped some good local walks.  Indeed, between the bouts of rain, we have had some lovely sunny days.

February Sun Over Local Fields

I’ve enjoyed the displays of snowdrops and the growing enthusiasm for the coming Spring being demonstrated by small birds singing their hearts out. 

I have also spotted some interesting fungi which seem to be thriving in the mild damp.  Just yesterday I saw a great pile of some sort of puff ball mushroom.

Crazy Mound Of Puff Balls Looking Like A Pile of Discarded New Potatoes

A little earlier this week I saw, for my first time, a myriad of small bright red fungi growing on felled tree trunks and branches and dotted through a few square yards of undergrowth.  These are Scarlet Elf Cap fungi.  A friend tells me that it is from these little red cups that the wood elves drink the dew to refresh themselves each morning; nice story and a lovely sight.

Scarlet Elf Cap Fungi

While I have taken myself off for leisurely walks or lounged around rather too much, Jane has been very busy organising an exhibition of local artists work as part of the village’s cultural festival (called Horsley Unwrapped).  Trying to tie down artists to various deadlines for facts about the work they want to display and any sale prices has been like ‘herding sheep’ at times, but the display boards have arrived and hanging of the work has started.  After the exhibition this coming weekend, Jane is suddenly going to have a lot of discretionary time available! 

On My Way To Get The Newspaper: Winter Sunrise

My only contribution to the festival so far has been supporting Jane with some of the collateral materials for her exhibition.  However, next week I am organising a Fun All-Comers Darts evening as part of the Festival.  Goodness knows how that will go – I haven’t played darts for a few decades!  I’ve bought some darts and am ready to go.  More on this next time perhaps….

Football Footnote: Forest Green Rovers, who I support through thick and thin, have just had their first league win since October 2023 following a run of 15 winless league games.  Incredibly there is a team worse than us in our Division (English Football League 2) and the win took us off the bottom.  This one win has turned hopelessness into absurd levels of hope that we can avoid a consecutive relegation this season.  But as someone on the FGR Fans Forum often says, ‘it’s the hope that kills you’.  Hope will either burgeon or turn to dust again this coming weekend as we play again the team we beat last October. My fingers are crossed….

Darn It!

One of my New Year resolutions was to do more creative things.  I think I have met that challenge, albeit rather mundanely this month, by darning several pairs of socks.  I had bought the materials to do this some time ago but had left them languishing in a drawer.  I got them out again and followed a YouTube video showing me how to bring a bunch of socks back to life.  I admit that the holes were quite small and the finished products are not works of art, but I was proud of myself for doing it rather than just throwing the socks away and buying new ones.

Not Beautiful But Newly Functional

My wife Jane has also been darning and even went on a workshop to facilitate more complex darning processes than I had attempted. Her main output was a repaired soft toy – called ‘Robert’ apparently – that my late mother had knitted for our Middle Son (MS) and which he still remembers adoring as a small child. MS and his fiancé are expecting a baby in March and, touchingly, MS wanted the baby to have a smartened up ‘Robert’ for his or her nursery. As with my socks, the repairs are, fashionably I’m told, very visible. Hopefully, both socks and ‘Robert’ will have a new lease of life.

‘Robert’. 30 Years Old And Going Strong. Thanks Mum!

Most of my other New Year Resolutions have started well. I’ve been walking a lot, watching my weight and my alcohol intake, and have countered my fear of average, lukewarm coffee by going to a cafe with Jane when she has requested (only once so far). I’ve reduced my intake of the miserable world news a bit. I’ve also remembered to do my back exercises on most days and although they are limited, they are also pain free. While doing them, I have enjoyed remembering that these exercises weren’t really possible a year ago after I put my back out with an unexpected, untimely and big sneeze; that’s good progress.

Only the gardening resolution is untouched but, so far in January, the weather has been either too cold and frosty (lovely to walk in), too windy or too rainy.  Climate chaos certainly seems to be producing very varied winter weather and convenient excuses not to get out working in the garden.

Frosty Mornings On The Way Into Town

In the last two or three weeks, there has been plenty of cloudless sky in between the storms.  Jane and I had a lovely walk through some woods on the other side of the Stroud Five Valleys from our home.  Lack of parking places forced us to alter our plans slightly but it is always rewarding to find new places to stroll through and the Five Valleys are blessed with a vast network of well-tended footpaths.

Striding Through Sunlit Oldhills Woods On The Chalford Biodiversity Trail

I have revisited some of the long walks around our village for the first time for months.  I’ve loved these sunny walks, their views and their solitariness and the time they give me to think (but not about very much).  The frozen ground meant there were no worries about the mud and the mix of bright sun and deep frost everywhere has been spectacular at times.

I Love This Old Barn Complex. I Hadn’t Been Past It For Ages
Big Skies And Views

Some of the recent winter sunrises have been spectacular too. 

The Sky On Fire Behind Our House

Spring is on its way.  I often find upcoming February is the toughest month to negotiate; I get impatient for the ever longer days and daunted by the amount of work there is to do to prepare the garden for planting.  Darn it, perhaps I should have focused a little less on mending socks in recent days, and a little more on gardening so as to have got ahead of tasks on the vegetable patch and in the field.  Even in retirement, time is too short.

New Year, New Trip

We chose Belfast rather than Edinburgh for Christmas but I couldn’t wait to see First Grandchild (FG) again and so we pitched up in Edinburgh early in January.  The added benefit of going then was that we could celebrate Eldest Son’s birthday with him.  As ever, we had a great time and experienced wonderful hospitality.

We did some of the usual things with an enthusiastic FG.  We spent a morning exploring the National Museum of Scotland and another wandering through the Royal Botanic Garden.  Both are great places to take toddlers and FG is very chatty now so trips like these are more pleasurable than ever. 

Morning Across Edinburgh To The Pentland Hills From The Royal Botanic Gardens

FG also has a soul mate in my wife, Jane, when it comes to visiting the cafés in these places.  Since I have pledged to overcome my fear of lukewarm/weak café coffee, and have added going to cafés when requested by Jane to my list of new year resolutions, I went along willingly with their desires.

We had driven up to Edinburgh and the journey was smooth with no problem with charging up the battery.  As a result, we had the option to drive FG and his parents beyond Edinburgh for an outing.  Since the weather was cold but clear, we chose to go to the beach at Yellowcraig near North Berwick. 

Yellowcraig Beach

We had a lovely time passing FG sticks, stones and chunks of seaweed that he could throw into the waves amid Yellowcraig’s open vistas and its big skies.

Looking North To North Berwick Law And Bass Rock From Yellowcraig Beach

Back in his flat, we threw ourselves into entertaining FG with drawing, tower building (and knocking them down), Playdoh moulding, and reading.  FG takes these activities very seriously and loves having control; I love that and it makes the times when he simply laughs and messes about even more enjoyable.  He’s developing so quickly. 

Before FG arrived, my wish was to see a grandchild before I died but now, inevitably, I want to live for decades so I see more and see them grow up. We are so looking forward to the arrival of a second grandchild in Bristol in a couple of months.

We did slip off for some ‘me-time’ too.  I walked down the Water of Leith to Leith town.  I’ve done that before but this time I went a little further to the edge of the port.  Leith is a vibrant town that is being transformed into a trendy outpost on the edge of Edinburgh with a new and frequent tram connection.  Next time we will try to get to see the Royal Yacht Britannia which has been retired to a berth there.

Late Afternoon In Leith And Leith Port
One Of Antony Gormley’s Water of Leith Statues Clad In A Hibernian Football Shirt For New Year

I also wandered through Stockbridge to see some of my favourite residential areas of Edinburgh.  We still debate whether moving to Edinburgh – or at least having a permanent second base there – would be viable and sensible.  The best Georgian flats and houses are lovely to look at and dream of owning.  More practically, a modern flat would be a better target but there’s no harm in looking! 

My Favourite (So Far) Edinburgh Square – Saxe Coburg Place

The drive home from Edinburgh always feels a lot less exciting than the journey up.  Although charging up the car was again problem-free on the way, there was an hour-long stoppage due to an accident a Range Rover towing a food truck strewn across three of the four lanes near Manchester – to further deflate the mood.  But getting home is always a relief and a pleasure of its own.  Now we are chilling out back in our weekly routine which includes evenings in front of the fire and series after series of streamed television. 

A Cosy Fire At Home

Until the next trip to Edinburgh and more memory creation with the little one…..

Heading To The Waves!

Resolutions, Resolutions

Jane and I celebrated New Year Eve in our local pub but, I’m afraid to say, were in bed by 10.30pm.  Despite not lasting out the end of year festivities, the turn of the year does always seem to me to be a highlight and a chance to think afresh about the world, and our actions within it.  What better time is there to check on past personal resolutions, set some new ones and think as hopefully as possible about what lies ahead.

My New Year resolutions have largely been the same from year to year and have revolved primarily around walking more, drinking less alcohol and managing my weight.  I’ve done ok in hitting targets in these areas and am not inclined to tighten the targets here.  I walk enough, my weight is stable and I enjoy drinking beer, wine and whiskey too much to reduce my intake to, for example, the “UK Chief Medical Officers (CMOs) low risk drinking guidelines, based on up-to-date scientific evidence”.  I may regret that one day, but not yet.

Beyond My Normal Walking Routes – An Old Cemetery in Woodchester, Near Stroud

Another of the New Year’s resolutions last year was to do more day tripping with Jane.  The idea was to capitalise on the flexibility of my retirement and her limited working hours to decide at short notice, when the weather forecast was positive, to go on a short excursion.  We did manage that a few times – a big success, for example, was our day trip very early in 2023 to Clevedon.  But our joint resolve petered out so this New Year we have renewed it.

The Severn Estuary – A Totally Different Landscape To That We Are Used To

Once again, we have started well.  Already we have made it to Frampton on Severn, embarked on a walk along part of the Severn Estuary in squally weather, and dropped into The Bell at Frampton on Severn for a drink in a previously unvisited (by me at least) pub.  Now we have to keep that up and I’m definitely counting our trip to Edinburgh this weekend in the tally.

The Gloucester And Sharpness Canal, Frampton On Severn

As targeted, I did manage to read one more book in 2023 than the paltry total I managed in 2022.  I want to read more novels and will especially focus on easy-reading crime and historical thrillers.  It is unfortunate for my resolution target that the book I have just started is a sprawling 560 page novel (by Philippa Gregory) with a tiny typeface. However, it is exactly the sort of historical novel I tend to enjoy so I hope to up my reading pace.

I have added a few more New Year Resolutions to the usual set.  One is to watch, and listen to, less ‘news’.  Its depressing, I tend to talk over it with my views and critique, and listening to it at breakfast, at lunch, before dinner and then again before bed is repetitive and needless: stop!

I really need to get out in the garden more.  There is always so much to do and the build-up of gardening tasks is one of the things that causes me anxiety while, once I get out there, gardening is one of the things that really relaxes me.  It is also good exercise despite being challenging to my back.  To compensate, I have added a resolution to stop talking about doing my routine back exercises and just do them.

There are a couple of others that will be harder to track.  I want to do something a bit more creative but need to think harder about what sorts of things that might entail (watch this space – maybe….).  Finally, I want to do a better job of satisfying my wife Jane’s frequent desire to have a coffee in town on the days we walk in together.  Being stuck in my ways, I always prefer the very hot, strong coffee we make at home but I know Jane likes the sense of occasion having a cup in a café for a change.

In the interests of transparency, here is the full set of resolutions with 2023 performance against those carried forward.  The key will be to stay healthy so their achievement is possible and hope the world doesn’t go to hell in a handbasket in the meantime.

Belfast Christmas

Christmas in Belfast started at a furious pace.  Youngest Son (YS) picked us up from George Best City Airport and whisked us off to an Asian small-plates restaurant in the centre of town called Yugo.  We had an early, swift and tasty dinner there before zooming off again to traditional Irish bar in the old docklands, The American Bar.  Here, we met up with YS’s future parents-in-law and had a catch-up chat while staying well out of the way of the regulars who seemed very proprietorial about their seats at the bar.

The Lagan At Christmas, Belfast

Then we crossed the road to the Dockers Club for a gig by George Houston who was an excellent warm up act for Joshua Burnside.  Both artists were amusing between the enlivening music and they both had songs with interesting lyrics. 

George Houston At The Dockers Club

It was a great venue; apparently the gig was sold out but it wasn’t too crowded.  The acoustics were great.  I could make out all the words of the songs as long as I didn’t stand behind the enthusiastic woman who thought she knew them all and thought we’d benefit from bellowing them out.  Plus, the Guiness was creamy and proper.  Seeing a gig in such a lively, functional venue was a real treat.

Joshua Burnside And Band

It was interesting to see YS and his fiancé bumping into several acquaintances and friends.  Belfast is small compared to London where meeting up at a gig would be unlikely unless planned in advance.  It is clear that YS’s partner has a huge network of friendships in Belfast through living in the city through her youth and, now, through her work as an osteopath and as a Pilates and yoga teacher.  It is great to see how settled – and successful – they have become in Belfast.

It was late by the time we got back to their house and Reggie, their one-year-old dog was suffering cabin fever and then overexcitement as we walked in.  Let’s just say he had an unsettled night of whining and moaning….  To be fair, he was very quiet on the other nights of our stay and he has settled down a lot since we last saw him in Spring.  He no longer chews the furniture and stairs – though his history of this remains evident – and he is a very gentle dog whose only anxiety seems to be worry that everyone in his ‘family’ are close by.  I’m looking forward to even more maturity by the next time we visit.

After that exciting first evening, the pace slowed and became very relaxing.  YS loves a bit of technology and he has a huge telly with surround-sound in one room and a (pretty awesome) projector in another.  That meant that while YS and I could watch football in one room, his partner and Jane could watch a stream of Christmas holiday movies in the other.  The latter included Bernard and the Genie which we all watched.  I hadn’t seen it since our sons were very young and was surprised that, amid the hilarity, some bits are amusingly inappropriate for the young. 

We played games.  YS won at HeckMeck as usual but Jane and I were dominant during my first exposure to Articulate!  We had a hoot with that!  I was less good at Jenga 😊

Ormeau’s Bread and Banjo Bakery – Excellent And The Best We Have Found In Belfast So Far

We ventured out to the independent shops in the local Ormeau area primarily to get some very good bread and bagels.  Then, for the first time, we visited Lisburn Road, which also has an attractive range of shops, and picked up sherry and some interesting wine. 

Maven – A Cool Home Decoration Shop In Lisburn Road

I dipped out of some of the perusal of shops to walk through pleasant but wintery Ormeau Park.  That enabled me to get exercise sufficient to enable conscience-free consumption later

Carved In A Tree Stump With A Chainsaw By Hazy In Ormeau Park

On Christmas Eve we had a lovely walk along the Lagan River and into the woods near the Stanmillis Sluice Gates. 

Stranmillis Sluice Gate On The River Lagan

On Christmas Day we strolled through the Botanical Gardens and past the Queens University Sports Hall.  There is a surprisingly large amount of interesting green space near to the dense but attractive residential housing of Ormeau – much needed with a dog as big and energetic as Reggie.

Belfast Botanic Gardens In Winter

On Boxing Day, the weather was excellent in the morning and YS insisted that we fulfil what is becoming a tradition when we visit him in Belfast: a sunrise walk on a beach.  Fortunately, its winter so the need to see the sunrise was less demanding on our sleep patterns than in the past. 

Just Before Sunrise – Helens Bay, Belfast

We went to Helen’s Bay and Crawfordsburn Country Park and it was empty and gorgeous. 

Helens Bay With Reggie At Full Pelt

Fortunately, especially early in our walk, there were few other dogwalkers. Reggie the dog is gradually becoming more manageable with other dogs but he is over-enthusiastic and provokes fuss and bother.  Amusingly, when he gets into a tangle with another dog, YS and his fiancé’s strategy is to run away as fast as possible – not to ignore the problem, but to lure Reggie away promptly.  It sort-of works and some other dog owners found it funny.

Finally, it being Christmas and all, we ate and drank well.  YS had bought a selection of excellent beers with strange names from Boundary Brewing

On the food front, a highlight, of course, was the Christmas dinner itself which included YS’s terrific pigs-in-blankets.  We also feasted on a huge selection of local cheese that had been provided by YS’s next door neighbours in gratitude for tolerance in the last 6 months while they built a very substantial extension on the back of their house.  (Hopefully, one day, YS and his fiancé will be able to build an extension too!).  Then, on our last night, YS’s fiancé made a delicious prawn and orzo dish that I will try out at home.

A Full Plate Of Christmas Dinner – Lucky Us!

It was a lovely Christmas.  Three years ago, Covid broke the mould of the succession of Christmas get-togethers with all of Jane’s family at our house.  Then, two years ago, we decamped to the Isle of Skye for a small family Christmas with those sons and partners without a baby.  Last year was a relatively small affair at our house with sons and partners that focused on First Grandchild as much as Christmas.  And now we have done Belfast Christmas. 

Chilled Out Belfast Christmas

Next year the plan is to host at our house all three sons and their wives, partners and fiancés plus what will be two grandchildren by then.  It’s only a plan but it is clear that the time for extended 15 to 20-strong family Christmas lunch has, passed for us and, now I have retired and have no work constraints, I can envisage that we may be even more innovative in Christmas location and composition in the future.  Long may that continue.  Lucky us. Happy New Year!

Winter Lights and Festivities

Early December was cold and frosty; proper winter weather.  I love walking around the village in weather like that, especially when the skies are clear and the sun is at least giving and impression of warmth. 

Cold Cows And Local Winter Scenes

On one rather cold evening, I walked to Forest Green Rovers to see the football team I support.  On the way I saw the annual winter light display that Ruskin Mill College hold in the valley the college occupies among the lakes, the ponds and the trout fishery it manages.  I was already a bit tight on time so didn’t attempt to get a closer look.  However, on the way back – disheartened by yet another defeat in what has been a long succession – I walked through the base of the valley to see the remnants of the display.

Ruskin Mill Light Display Including A Dragonfly Above A Lake and A Mouse

Many of the candles had naturally expired by that time and no-one else was about.  The atmosphere was a strange mix of festivity and spookiness.  The overall feel and several of the individual light-works were impressive.  I felt lucky to have seen the display since it wasn’t officially open to the public and it only lasted a few hours.

Ruskin Mill Light Display

Jane has been investing a lot of time in getting our own Christmas lights up around our house.  We briefly debated whether to put a Christmas tree up this year since we are not at home for Christmas itself.  However, I was unsurprised when she arrived back one afternoon with a substantial tree and spent the rest of the day decorating it.  Jane loves Christmas and the tree looks lovely as usual.

Domestic Festive Lighting – Door and Tree

The festive lighting around the house is also lovely.  The excuse for it being even more extensive than usual is that, after several years of talking about having a drinks party for local friends and acquaintances, we finally arranged one. 

I think it went well.  It was great to see so many locals chatting animatedly with each other.  Jane relieved the hospitality burden on us by hiring a youngster to man the ‘bar’.  We both enjoyed the occasion while learning lessons about how to improve arrangements for the next one (should we get our act together again).

Plenty Of Festive Lights In Our Bit Of The Hamlet

That weekend felt very full because Jane spent much of the next day at our house with her siblings, sorting out a load of boxes of her late mother’s possessions.  Good progress was made I believe.  However, it’s a big task and there are still a number of crates and boxes in our spare room and corridors to examine.  The contents need to split into allocations by sibling, for charity, for the dump and for a celebratory bonfire of family memorabilia that no-one wants to keep.  The creation of this last stack of stuff is in line, Jane tells me, with one of several Swedish death-related cultural practices that celebrate the past while preventing our lofts getting filled with junk.

Now, with our Secret Santa presents already bought and no big family Christmas dinner to prepare for, we are in a quiet and welcome gap between our drinks party and Christmas itself.  For that, we are off to see Youngest Son and his fiancé in Belfast.  I fear we must prepare for a rainy Christmas not a cold, clear one but we are intent on having a great time.  I hope all you readers have a great festive period too!

Frosty!

Richness of London

Some great and long-standing friends of ours from London visited us about a month ago.  During their stay they offered to put me, and Jane, up for a couple of nights in London so I could attend a ‘Boys Night Out’ with some other mutual friends.  These nights out with half a dozen other longstanding London-based friends have been going on for several years.  We meet each time in a restaurant where country’s cuisine matches our progression through the alphabet. 

From London Bridge (Unusually, With Tower Bridge Up)

We have made it through to ‘W’ which this time meant we had to meet in a Welsh, Western Samoan or Western Saharan restaurant.  Perhaps controversially given the current politics in north west Africa, we went for the latter and settled on a Moroccan restaurant in Covent Garden.  There, we were deposited in the basement where we were largely left to our own devices and had a relaxed evening of catch up while avoiding issues of Brexit, politics and climate change which might have provoked argument.  We may be mates but we have diverse views on life!

Visiting London for this evening out and capitalizing on the hospitality of our hosts, provided a great opportunity to experience the rich range of exhibitions and galleries of this great city.  Having sold my weekday bolt-hole 18 months ago, we rarely visit London these days.  We are no longer members of the big cultural institutions and hadn’t planned well enough in advance to see the most popular and celebrated exhibitions.  But exhibitions in the next tier down from the greatest were amusement enough.

Jane had accompanied me to London and, before she went off to meet up with London friends of her own, we went to the Natural History Museum to see the Wildlife Photographer of the Year exhibition.  I have visited this many times and always love the photographs and the way they are presented in backlit screens.  The range of material and the detail in the images is astounding to me.

From The Wildlife Photographers Exhibition – My Favourite I Think, By Olivier Gonnet

I hung around the Natural History Museum for a while to help me recall bringing our sons to the museum on many Saturday mornings when they were small.  I saw several of the rooms including the new dinosaur section (including a robotic, moving tyrannosaurus dressed as Father Christmas!), and a small but diverting exhibition of photos of research and military stations in the Arctic by Gregor Sailer.

One Of Gregor Sailer’s Photos

I then crossed London in wonderfully sunny weather, to the brand new Antony Gormley exhibition at White Cube Gallery

Classic Antony Gormley At The White Cube

The first thing that astonished there was the transformation since my last visit.  Then, all the rooms were filled with massive piles of rubble and shelving packed with dimly lit industrial artifacts put together by Anselm Kiefer in celebration of Finnegan’s Wake by James Joyce.  Gormley did fill the biggest of the rooms with more stone constructions – fired clay blocks positioned to represent 244 ‘body forms’ – but the whole exhibition was sparse and minimalist; a total contrast to Kiefer’s last exhibition here.

‘Resting Place’ By Antony Gormley (2023)

I was joined by one of our London hosts and together we did another circuit of the exhibition.  I enjoyed it.  I like the fact that I have now seen a range Gormley’s work in a variety of places and see at least some of the linkages and evolutions in his thinking.

We headed off to find a local Bermondsey pub for a pint (of Magazine Cover by DEYA Brewing Company – one of my favourite beers and local to our home not London) and a light lunch.  Then we ‘Citymappered’ our way to Greenwich to see the Astronomy Photographer of the Year exhibition at the National Maritime Museum.

Like the Wildlife Photography exhibition, this is an exhibition I have visited often over the last several years.  It tends to be more repetitive in terms of content than the wildlife photography but I find it amazing nonetheless. 

‘Aurora Over the Great Pollet Sea Arch’ (Donegal) By Brendan Alexander

I don’t really understand the techniques and equipment involved in producing the images.  Indeed, I admire the photos that are relatively simple single take shots rather than the ones clearly involving huge telescopes, time lapse photography and overlays of multiple pictures.  In any case, the results are, almost uniformly, incredibly beautiful.

‘A Rocky Rise’ (Pembrokeshire) By Carl Evans

We failed to get to the Royal Naval College in time to see the Painted Hall there before it closed for the day (my fault!).  But we did get some good views of the Cutty Sark and the Thames as the sun went down in a clear sky.

Next morning, Jane left for home and I made my way across London to Kings Cross to take a train to Nottingham.  Again, the weather was clear and bright.  I loved my walk across the centre of the city while renewing my acquaintance with London’s diversity, vibrancy and bustle.  Its such a rich city – in more ways than one!

The British Library And The St Pancras Renaissance Hotel, London

Then to Nottingham for a rather whistle-stop stay with my sister, a game of Mahjong, and a nice meal out with my Dad whose birthday followed the next day.  He is 92.  That is 90 years older than First Grandchild whose birthday we celebrated just a couple of weeks before.  Incredible!

Anniversary and Birthday in Edinburgh

Autumn is turning to winter but there is still some colour in the trees and the occasional sunny day provides a bit of autumnal sparkle.  I continue to feel fortunate to live in a pretty (but not prettified) part of Gloucestershire and we enjoyed showing it off a bit while some friends stayed with us at the end of October.  When the sun is low as it is now, the Cotswold stone of the houses glows beautifully and the crispening leaves on the trees glimmer in the breeze.

Local Autumn Colour

I am well behind on the bedding down of the garden and allotment for winter.  I have made some progress but, when the weather has been nice, I’ve tended to take the opportunity to go for local walks.  When the weather has been cold and wet, I’ve stayed close to the heating in our kitchen.  I feel that, as I get older, I feel the cold more than I did.

Chilly Early Starts

Our First Grandchild (FG) doesn’t seem to feel the cold anywhere near so much!  He is thriving up in Edinburgh.  We visited Edinburgh recently to celebrate his second birthday and his parents’ first wedding anniversary.  They have a lovely flat and, now there is a wood-burner in the lounge, a very cosy spot for the evenings.  FG can now lark about before bedtime in his nightwear – or just his nappy – without me feeling chilly by proxy. 

We stayed in Edinburgh for longer than usual but hopefully avoided overburdening the working parents by staying a couple of nights in a hotel rather than with them.  FG seemed to enjoy having two more people to order about especially once his birthday brought more toys for us all to play with. 

He also liked his usual trip with us to the Royal Botanic Garden, where we collected different colours and sizes of leaf.  It’s a wonderful, free resource regardless of the time of year.

Edinburgh’s Royal Botanic Gardens

On the actual day of his birthday, we all joined him on an extended visit to the National Museum of Scotland where he joyfully rushed from exhibit to exhibit.  It’s a great place for kids.

The National Museum Of Scotland

We had other lovely family outings in brilliant sunshine to Saughton Park, which had an interesting history and a goldfish pond which fascinated FG, and to Lauriston Castle gardens with its great views across the Firth of Forth.  Much to Jane’s satisfaction, each visit involved a café stop.  This is something that, when we are alone together, she finds hard to persuade me to indulge in.  With FG, it’s another little opportunity to watch him develop.

Lauriston Castle With The Firth Of Forth Beyond

It was convenient that we had our car, could get around easily with everyone, and that ES and his partner had some time off work so they could enjoy their anniversary and birthday fully.

Jane and I also went off on our own for perusal of Stockbridge’s shops (Jane) and walks by the Water of Leith (me).  The Water of Leith was gushing more than usual following the recent storms which made the riverside walk somehow even more pleasurable than usual, especially as the sun was shining.

We also managed to slide off for an hour in Spry, our favourite wine bar, and for a set of very tasty, innovative small lunch plates at Noto where Eldest Son (ES) and his partner had celebrated their anniversary a couple of nights before.

My Walk Along The Water Of Leith Led Me To Murrayfield

While FG and his parents went off to a birthday party of one of FG’s contemporaries in south Edinburgh, Jane and I took advantage of more sunny weather to climb Blackford Hill.  This afforded great views north of Arthur’s Seat and the city and I had a bit of an internal psychic glow knowing that this was where ES had proposed marriage.  

Views North From Blackford Hill

In between the anniversary and birthday festivities, and as the weather deteriorated, Jane and I visited the newly opened half of the National Gallery of Scotland.  This great new space doubles the size of the gallery and has some excellent works including many by the Glasgow Boys and the less renowned Glasgow Girls.

The New Galleries At The Scottish National Gallery

In a slight overdoing of cultural experience for one day, we also visited Dovecot Studios to see an exhibition called ‘Scottish Women Artists: Challenging 250 Years of Perception’.  This too had art by the Glasgow Girls.  I thought the exhibition was a bit uneven but particularly liked the works by Joan Eardley and a few others. 

Dovecote Studios: Scottish Women Artists (Including Joan Eardley And Alberta Whittle – bottom right and left respectively)

While we were in Edinburgh, ES’s partner cooked us lovely meals and we had great toast-laden breakfasts (Archipelago Bakery sells outstanding bread) plus a couple of substantial delivery meals from local food outlets.  Fortunately, this visit, we met ES’s partner’s parents again and we all tucked into an Indian spread while sharing FG-stories.  

FG’s birthday cake was a delightful mum-made ‘hedgehog cake’ with chocolate buttons for spines (he loved the candle blowing out process and the chocolate).  Later, his birthday dinner was a shared set of delivered pizzas.  Meals delivered to the door are rare treats for me; we don’t have them at home since the choice is limited and the distances feel too great.  I put on weight in Edinburgh but it was well worth it.

Birthday Joy

It’s a long way to Edinburgh and back in our car (though we again had no real problems with charging it up as we travelled).  But we love Edinburgh.  Jane and I know that had ES not met someone from there who wanted to settle in the city, we would not have had such an opportunity to get to know Edinburgh so well.  There is so much more to see there and we look forward to another trip for ES and his partners’ birthdays early next year.

Last Day In Ghent

On the morning of our second and last full day in Ghent, Jane and I set off north again to the Museum of Industry.  The sun was already shining again, the temperature was pleasant and we seemed to be finding, together, a good pace and combination of visiting the sights of Ghent and of casually taking in its atmosphere.

Gent is a significant industrial centre and, it seems, has been so for centuries.  The museum focused on Ghent’s history in textiles and printing. 

Museum of Industry, Ghent: An Original ‘Mule Jenny’ Brought to Belgium Illegally From The UK To Spawn The Textile Industry In Ghent

There were working machines and technical descriptions but what was even more interesting were the accounts of peoples lives as the city’s industry developed.  These were presented among relevant artifacts through short videos that I found very informative.  This was an excellent museum.

Museum of Industry, Ghent Including Some Very Large Looms And A Lot Of Old But Operational Printing Equipment

Following a quick stop for a revitalising coffee and off-the-beaten-track people watching at Peaberry, we used our trusty ‘CityCard’ to embark on a guided boat ride around some of Ghent’s waterways.  The sun helped make this a very pleasant and novel excursion.  The boat also took Jane towards another linen store that had been recommended at the Museum of Industry. 

Views From The Ghent Watertram

While she sought out the linen she wanted and then sat in another bar, I went off to visit the Bijloke campus

Bijloke Campus: A Mix Of Old And New

This campus is a monastery and hospital founded in the 13th century that is now a collection of buildings of various vintages that include the Ghent City Museum and a concert hall.  I spent longer in the City Museum than I had planned – I found it very interesting and its contents dovetailed nicely into what I had learnt in the Museum of Industry earlier in the day. 

Inside Ghent City Museum: The Monastery Refectory and Cloister

By the time I got back to Jane, I was ready for a beer and planning for the evening.  Guess what?  More beer and another burger!

This time we ate at the Artevelde brewery and I cleared another item off my Belgian bucket list: drinking a sample tray of beers.  All of the beers was good and the accompanying burger, almost overwhelmed by chips, was one of the best we had while in Belgium.

Artevelde Brewery

We had a final beer in the rather luxurious bar in our hotel.  This time we got free beer and snacks courtesy of the fact that we had eschewed a laundry change during our stay – apparently a small encouragement to eco-practices pursued by hotel management.  That was a nice bonus to round off our stay.

On our final morning, Jane did a bit more shopping while I took a farewell look at Ghent from the top of the Ghent Belfry (Belfort).  Once again, the presentation of information – once I had found the way in – was very good.  I was glad that I went early in the day though, since the stairwell was not built for crowds!

Ghent From The Belfry (Belfort)

Our journey back to Brussels and then London and then home was uneventful. There was plenty of time to contemplate a very good city-break holiday and how, after all these years of going on holiday together, Jane and I have both compromised to find, I think, a good balance between sight-seeing and chilling out in cafes and bars.  We must plan another.

More Sun in Ghent

Following our day in Bruges, we had two full days in Ghent.  As in Bruges, we spent quite a bit of time just walking the streets.  However, there were churches, museums and galleries we wanted to see and, to facilitate that, we bought a pair of Ghent ‘CityCards’.  Despite the significant up-front cost, these proved good value and reduced the hassle around ticket buying and queuing.  Also, they encouraged us to venture into a couple of places that we might not have bothered with if an entrance fee had been required.

Ghent Waterways: (Quite) Early Morning

First though, we had to fortify ourselves with breakfast.  On our way to Bruges the previous day we had passed a café, STEK, that had looked promising and we made the first of what turned out to be two visits there.  The breakfast was excellent – rivalling the brunch we had had the previous day in Bruges – and again I was sold on the inclusion of peanut butter in my banana crumble.  I have been adding nut butter to my breakfasts at home ever since.

Lovely Belgian Breakfasts: Blackbird (Bruges) vs STEK (Ghent)

Our first gallery visit in Ghent was to the Municipal Museum of Contemporary Art Ghent (S.M.A.K.) to the south of the city.  This was only established in 1999 and, frankly, the collection betrayed that.  The gallery has some big rooms – all white as is usual for galleries of this type – but there wasn’t a huge amount on show.  I enjoyed the peace and quite of the place but we didn’t stay long.

In S.M.A.K.

We strolled over the road to the Museum of Fine Arts Ghent (MSK).  This holds a vastly more comprehensive collection than S.M.A.K.  It’s collection represented art across several centuries, a solid coverage of Belgian art and a diverse set of artists from Hieronymus Bosch (who I always find interesting) to Rubens, Rodin and Magritte. 

St Bavos Cathedral – A Painting By Belgian, Pierre Francois de Noter at MSK

I was initially impressed by the incredibly well-preserved colours in the medieval religious works, then flagged a bit through the portrait rooms, before reviving as I moved into the galleries of more modern art.  The gallery has been renovated recently and it was very comfortable, quiet and well laid out according to chronology but also thematically.

A More Modern Belgian Painting – ‘Skeleton Looking At Chinoiseries’ By James Ensor

Having had our culture infusion for the day, Jane and I strolled back in increasing sunshine towards the centre.  We popped into Saint Peter’s Abbey but were confused by the lack of things to see and took what turned out to be a wrong turn into the attractive, but unremarkable, adjacent gardens and vineyards.  It turned out that these were open to the general public and we were now locked out of the Abbey.  It was not the only time during our stay in Belgium that a combination of our lack of language skills and dubious signage confused our sight-seeing.

St Peter’s Abbey And Church, Ghent

We found our way back to the Abbey entrance but since there was no exhibition on, we moved swiftly next door to Our Lady of St Peter’s Church.  This was part of the original abbey complex which was one of the earliest settlements that ultimately became Ghent.  It dates back to the 12th century and was rebuilt in a Baroque style in the 17th century.  It was impressive inside and out.

Inside Our Lady Of St Peter’s Church

The sun was well out by now and we continued a relaxed walk along the Ghent waterways, past the new and radically modern-looking library to St Bavo’s Cathedral

Ghent City Library

As expected, the Cathedral was crowded with tourists most of whom were seeking a view of the famous Ghent Altarpiece which was completed in 1432 by the Van Eyck brothers. 

The altarpiece has survived clandestine sales of some of its parts, thievery, war and religious uprisings.  It has been restored in recent years – indeed, we saw part of this process during our visit to the Fine Arts Museum.  It is now largely back in St Bavos and is a huge tourist attraction, including a virtual reality tour (which I opted out of).

Inside St Bavos (With The Ghent Altarpiece To The Right)

While Jane sought out places to buy Belgian linen, I visited St Michael’s Church and St Nicholas’ Church.  In the latter, there was an ongoing service so I didn’t loiter. 

Our Hotel (1898 The Post) And St Nicholas Church From St Michael’s Bridge, Ghent (From a Similar Angle to The Painting By de Noter Above)

St Michael’s Church was rather lovely – probably my favourite of the churches in Ghent that I saw.  It is another very old church; it was started in 1440 but its tower was only completed in 1825.  Its internal brickwork was beautiful in the dappled sunshine coming into the nave past nearby trees and, although ornate in parts, it felt slightly less polished and more homely than some of the other churches we had seen.

Inside St Michael’s Church; Empty, Airy And Beautifully Sunlit

Whoa!  It had been a very full, long morning.  By now we were ready for something other than churches and galleries.  Food and Belgian beer beckoned.

I spotted that the brewery for the beer I had drunk on our first night in Ghent, DOK, was open for food as well as drinks.  It was at the northern end of the waterways surrounding the centre of the city and we set off in what was by now warm, continuous sun.  As we approached the brewery, we passed Bar Broei, a rough and ready looking bar that nonetheless sold good, homemade snacks and excellent beer.  We chilled out there very comfortably and with a very personable barman for a couple of hours.

Bar Broei – Rough And Ready But Just What We Needed After A Long Morning Sight-seeing

We resumed our walk to Dok Brewery and discovered that it was in an industrial area surrounded by a variety of street food outlets busy with, it seemed, mainly local residents.  This was perfect for us and we tucked into more beer and, of course, a beef burger. 

Dok Brewery: Vibrant Eating And Drinking Establishments

Such meat eating was becoming the norm.  So were the early nights back at the hotel, first in the bar and then our room.  We still had another day in Ghent to go.

Our Final Night Scene, Ghent