A Birthday and Christmas Prep

Having grandchildren coming to stay with us at Christmas has added a higher than ever level of expectation of fun around the festive period.  I keep envisaging their excitement when the big day comes.  For example, I’m looking forward to the wonderment of First Grandchild (who is now three years old) when the sherry, mince pie and carrots we will leave out for Father Christmas and his reindeer disappear overnight, to be replaced by present-filled stockings.  We are ready!

But first, the last few weeks have contained much enjoyment of different kinds.  First there was FG’s third birthday and a visit to Edinburgh to share in that.  Then we had friends from London staying with us, followed by a choral concert in the nearby town of Tetbury and a test of our grandparenting skills while looking after Second Grandchild unsupervised. 

In between, there has been preparation for Christmas, a bit of physiotherapy for my knee, wrapping up of my volunteering duties for the year at the local school and food bank, and the writing of a draft Parish Nature Action Plan for the Parish Council.  It’s not work but it’s felt quite busy.

As usual, we loved our time in Edinburgh.  The trip up in the car was pretty smooth (though the freezing cold weather slowing operation of some of the electric vehicle chargers on the way back was problematic).

Freezing Weather On The Way South From Edinburgh – Lovely To See But Limiting On EV Battery Capacity And Charging Rates!

Once in Edinburgh, the hospitality Eldest Son (ES) and his wife lay on was as lovely as ever and further enhanced by their newly refurbished kitchen.  It was great too to see ES’s parents in law, as we usually do, over a big Indian takeaway.  We got out and about to see some of the sights that are now becoming familiar to us.  Plus, of course, the centrepiece of our visit was FG’s birthday party.

Happy Birthday Boy

FG’s birthday party was shared with that of his best male friend and it was very successful.  The bouncy castle was very popular and FG spent a lot of time on that.  There were a variety of other toys and activities around the room and these were also well used.  The brutal beating of a Piñata in the form of a cardboard donkey full of sweets felt a little incongruous and unsettling but was a highlight for the birthday boys.  For the adults, there were a few beers to provide some relaxation amid the hubbub of the kids scurrying around and the simple, raw excitement in the room.

Along The Water Of Leith Near Dean Village, Edinburgh

I skipped out of some of the post-party clearing up to watch Forest Green Rovers Football Club play (and win!) a vital top-of-the-table game on the television.  I also skipped out on one, sunny afternoon to walk down the Water of Leith to Dean Village and then to the Modern Art Galleries

View From Outside Modern One Gallery, Edinburgh

At Modern One gallery (there are two separate national galleries of modern art) I saw an exhibition by Everlyn Nicodemus.  It was a larger exhibition than I expected (especially given that it was free) and, by the end, I was also surprised by its variety.  I can’t confess to have been moved much by the work but a lot of it was wonderfully colourful and vibrant.  The whole experience of walking around the exhibition with so few others was quietly pleasing. It always seems worthwhile visiting Edinburgh’s art galleries.

Some Of The Colourful Paintings By Everlyn Nicodemus

We also always seem to make time to take FG to the Royal Botanic Garden and the National Museum of Scotland.  The Botanic Gardens are great year-round and FG likes the visits to the café there.   FG also loves both seeing the exhibits at the National Museum – especially the natural history section – and getting to and from it on the bus.  Watching FG’s mind take in all the sights in the museum is very rewarding and I never tire of going there.

Natural History Hall At The National Museum Of Scotland

Next month we are visiting Edinburgh again and, this time, for a month.  It will be a very different experience our usual long weekends with ES and his wife.  I hope the Air BnB we have chosen is as good as it looks. 

Although the weather is bound to be wintery, our stay will, at one level, feel like an extended holiday and we will be a couple of tourists taking in the sights again.  But, on another level, it is a bit of a trial run for seeing if we would like to move more substantially to Edinburgh.  We are both excited by the prospect of spending more time in the city; Edinburgh is such a wonderful place and being near ES’s family for a few weeks will enable a different relationship with all of them, at least temporarily.

Back home, we entertained our London guests with extended chat, Jane’s cooking, plenty of drink, a lunch at The Woolpack Inn in Slad (in our opinion, the best local pub food) and a walk by the Severn to see the Purton Hulks

Along The Canal Walk Towards The Severn And The Purton Hulks

These ‘hulks’ are boats deliberately run ashore and filled with debris and concrete to form a barrier between the tidal Severn River and the adjacent canal.  They create a rather ghostly atmosphere and an interesting historical distraction from the huge views up and down the Severn estuary.

One Of The Purton Hulks Overlooking The Severn Estuary (Tide Out)

Our entertaining skills were also tested when we looked after Second Grandchild (SG) for a few hours while Middle Son and his fiancée went out for lunch – their first outing together without SG since he arrived.  It turned out to be a breeze.  SG seemed curious about us substituting for his parents but calm and quietly playful.  When he refused to have a nap in his nursery, I took him out in his buggy.  While we were out, he was attentive to his surroundings, regarded me with apparent interest and occasional smiles, and then gently fell asleep.  What a pleasure retirement is when one can do things like that with a grandchild!

Now Christmas is approaching.  To get in the mood we went to a choral concert in a very Christmassy Tetbury.  The concert was in the main church which is very spacious and dominated by rows of high, enclosed pews.  The church looked marvellous with so many candles lit on huge chandeliers and elsewhere, and the concert sounded great when the choir was in full blooded flow. 

The Standish Consort And Ensemble La Notte at St Mary’s Church, Tetbury

Now we look forward to our sons arriving for Christmas.  Youngest Son arrives later today (unfortunately without new wife who is bound to Belfast by their dog for this trip).  Then Eldest Son’s entourage arrives next week before Middle Son, his fiancée and SG arrive on Christmas Eve.  The semi-planned Christmas schedule is full of fun and games, walks and meals, Secret Santa, and sitting around the wood-burner and kitchen playing and chatting with the little ones and adults alike. 

Now I have retired and I have no background (or foreground!) thoughts of work to contend with during the festive period, I can focus on all of the above.  It’s a treat and a luxury.

Autumn’s Hidden Notes and Gems

We are well into Autumn.  There are mushrooms underfoot and local trees are looking lovely in their yellows, browns and reds as they shut down for winter.  Our social whirl, which was so active with weddings and holidays a few weeks ago, has slowed but it hasn’t shut down.  We have enjoyed several very pleasurable outings and visits and have a few more lined up during the rest of the month. 

Local Autumn Colour

The backdrop to this has been activity to prepare our rental property for a new tenant after a several month gap for repairs and, now, moving furniture around to enable restoration of our house’s ground level wooden floors.  It’s been a busy period of the routine, of renewal and of entertainment gems. 

Little Autumn Gems Underfoot

Back in September, still in our ‘wedding period’, we attended Stroud’s annual Hidden Notes festival of electronic and ambient music.  We last attended in 2019 and the festival has become much more popular since then.  We underestimated that and only just managed to get a seat before the central concert event became standing room only.

We saw five different artists over a six-hour period (thank goodness we got those seats!).  Not all the music was to our tastes but all the performers were interesting in some way.  Laura Cannell kicked things off with pleasant, off-beat, folky music on violin and a strange-looking bass recorder. 

Hekla was even stranger.  She is an Icelandic expert in playing the ‘Theremin’ which is a Soviet invention from the 1920s and is now an instrument that makes sound without physical contact as the artist moves around it and disrupts the electric signals it emits.  It produced a rather bizarre, eerie sound and it was fun to watch Helka waving arms and hands around.

Mary Lattimore and Suzanne Ciani At St Lawrence Church, Stroud During The ‘Hidden Notes’ Festival

Echo Collective, a group of classically trained Belgian musicians, sounded rather sombre.  Their set was a rather slow burn but ultimately satisfying.  Then came Mary Lattimore, an American harpist.  I know her work well and was very much looking forward to hearing her in person.  I wasn’t disappointed; it was great to see how the sounds she makes on her albums are actually made.  Those sounds were lovely with occasional unexpected twists. 

The evening was completed by Suzanne Ciani.  She is an electronic music pioneer and she brought some very retro equipment with her.  The most remarkable thing about her performance was her sprightliness at the age of 78.  The music, however, was a difficult listen for our ears.  That didn’t dent our enjoyment of the Hidden Notes event; it’s a little gem in the Cotswolds.

A more substantial outing was, more recently, to South Somerset and ‘a restaurant with rooms’ called Holm.  I have wanted to revisit Wells Cathedral since passing it unexpectedly while following SatNav on the way back from Youngest Son’s Stag do in the summer.  Holm in South Petherton was a hotel and restaurant Jane had been attracted to during one of her Instagram searches.  Our trip was a win-win for us both.

Wells Cathedral (Top), Vicars Close (Medieval Houses Built For The Cathedral Choir), And The Bishops Palace

The whole outing was bathed in Autumn sunshine and was very rewarding.  The area immediately around Wells Cathedral and the Bishops Palace is beautiful.  Wells Cathedral itself has some really wonderful features. 

Views Inside Wells Cathedral

Holm provided very attractively decorated, comfortable rooms and innovative and excellent food.  Despite a problem with the hot water on the first morning, we had a very good stay.

The Studio at Holm and Our Tasteful Room

Holm is in the small market town of South Petherton.  The church was attractive, there were numerous interesting old houses mainly constructed from a limestone that had a lovely orange hue.

South Petherton Church And A Fives Wall (Bottom Right)

Perhaps most remarkably, South Petherton has a ‘fives’ wall in someone’s garden (and we saw another later in a nearby village).  The game of fives became a popular sport in South Somerset from the mid-18th century. Churchwarden accounts record damage from fives being played against church towers.  To prevent this, purpose-built fives walls were constructed in the yards of inns and large gardens and here was a surprising example of that (see below).

On the way to South Petherton we stopped off at the familiar and elegant At the Chapel for a coffee and then Hauser & Wirth in Bruton.  We have been to both several times before. 

At The Chapel, Bruton, Somerset

There always seems to be an exhibition at Hauser & Wirth that is worth seeing.  On this occasion it was an exhibition by Dame Phyllida Barlow who Jane seemed to be familiar with (I wasn’t).  Her work was both in the indoor exhibition spaces and in the gardens.  The scale of some of it was impressive and I quite liked the collection of small paintings but I don’t believe either of us was much moved.  Instead, we retreated to a good lunch in Da Costa, the new Hauser & Wirth restaurant..

Works By Dame Phyllida Barlow At Hauser & Wirth, Bruton
Hauser & Wirth Gardens With Dame Phyllida Barlow’s Sculptures

Of course, once settled into our very nice hotel room, we used Holm as a base to visit a few other local places of interest.  Once again, the life memberships of the National Trust that we were given as presents decades ago by my Mum and Dad came in very handy and were much re-appreciated. 

We visited Montacute House gardens and benefited from an informative guide to the late Elizabethan architecture.  The house itself was closed due to an ‘incident’ but, armed with our membership cards, there was no disappointment – we can simply come again another year.  The house is very impressive from the outside and the gardens were quiet and pleasant in the Autumn sunshine.

Montacute House, Somerset

We popped into East Lambrook Manor Gardens which is famous as an archetype cottage garden created by Margery Fish in the second half of the 20th century.  Because of the lateness of the season there was limited colour in the garden.  Even so, the mix of old buildings, autumnal trees, seed heads and densely planted beds were lovely.  All this was augmented by a selection of steel plant-like sculptures by a local artist (Chris Kampf).  We were left wondering how much longer the attractive set-up will last given the ‘For Sale’ sign we saw on the way out – we hope it does as it’s clearly lovingly looked after by the current incumbents and was another little hidden gem for us to see.

East Lambrook Manor Gardens, Somerset

Finally, we visited Barrington Court and its twin, Strode House.  This was owned by the Tate family of sugar, golden syrup and Tate Gallery fame.  The spacious gardens and vistas were wonderful in the late afternoon sun.  Inside the house, was the long and interesting story of restoration and development of the house – first by the Tate family and then the National Trust.  This restoration is ongoing but the areas that were open were very nicely presented.

Barrington Court And Strode House, Somerset

Back home we went to a gem of very local entertainment: a rather surreal but very funny village pantomime.  It poked fun at the local village of Horsley and its hamlets, the misplacement of parcels delivered to village residents and other local peculiarities – all in a very quirky way along the theme of Alice in Wonderland.  In a village of just 300 households there is a lot of talent and the entertainment provided was priceless.

The Village Panto: ‘Alice’s Adventures In Horsley’

The rest of the last few weeks has been more routine but with highlights of visits by Eldest Son’s family and his parents in law, and a few visits by Middle Son and his fiancée.  It is so heart-warming to see our grandchildren.  It’s a different love to that we felt towards our own kids.  Maybe recollections of our love for them when they were growing up is blurred by time.  Oddly, my love for our sons feels even greater now, and my adoration of both grandchildren is incredibly intense; we both love it when they visit us.

We have more visits by London friends and another visit to Edinburgh for First Grandchild’s third birthday coming up in the next few weeks.  Each event will be a welcome distraction from disturbing international events and a little fillip to our lives; autumnal gems for the memory banks.

Joy At A Belfast Wedding

The last weekend of September was one of life’s memorable high points.  I’m still humming from the pleasure of that weekend during which our Youngest Son (YS) got married to a lovely Belfast woman who he has known for almost 10 years.

Belfast City Hall

The tear-jerking (for me, anyway) formal ceremony itself was in the impressive Belfast City Hall.  Before and after these formalities, there were great opportunities to meet up with the bride and grooms’ friends and family and to celebrate the marriage.  There were weekend events in a hipster brewery bar, in a traditional central Belfast pub, at the newly married couple’s home and at an impeccably organized and delivered reception at Waterman House.  The vast majority of our close family was there – including both our grandchildren.  Jane and I loved every minute.  I think the bride and groom had a rather special time too!

Sun Shining, A Beautiful Building And A Happy Couple

Life can be wonderful (if you can avoid things like climate-change-accentuated weather catastrophe’s, poverty, wars, and ill health).  I have always been a ‘half-empty’ person who worries about the news and the future.  However, Jane would say that we need to live in and appreciate the current moments and certainly this Belfast wedding weekend was compelling encouragement to think that way. 

Awww… Happy!

Jane and I know how fortunate we are to be able to have experienced grandchildren and to see our sons married to such lovely people.  It is now just Middle Son (MS) to go on the marriage front but he and his fiancée have already given us the privilege of Second Grandchild.  He was a little marvel throughout the Belfast trip and celebrations.  He was so calm as he was passed around the revellers and I was personally chuffed by the number of instant and gorgeous smiles I got from him during the weekend. 

First Grandchild (FG) was a treat too.  Although he struggled with my explanations of the concept of marriage, he fell further in love with the bride – perhaps that was because she was dressed a bit like an angel – and he loved the hugs he got from her. 

In Love With An Angel?

We, and our two elder sons and their families, stayed at the ideally located, cool and very comfortable Bullitt Hotel.  Our room was large enough for us to give Eldest Son and his wife a break by playing indoor games with FG.  Jane played a card pairing game and we introduced him to the idea of paper planes.  He played enthusiastically with one for ages; who needs manufactured toys!?

Jane also took FG off during the wedding reception since he was struggling with the noise levels and needed a break.  Jane only just made it back in time to deliver her speech.  I found a draft version of her speech on my phone in case I needed to step in but the Master of Ceremonies – a naturally funny and larger-than-life Australian friend of the now married couple – had the situation under control.  Jane returned just in time to deliver perfectly.  All the speeches including those from the bride’s parents and another Australian friend of the married couple were amusing and hit their mark.

We ate extremely well and Watermans Restaurant did a tremendous job of delivering four choices of three courses of food to so many very efficiently and effectively.  The drinks flowed and the music and dancing started.  As the music got louder so I spent more time in the adjacent alley so I could hear conversations with my ageing ears.  My ageing knees didn’t prevent a bit of Dad-dancing though.  However, I saw from subsequently released video that the dancing became increasingly rumbustious after Jane and I left the youngsters to it.

In between all the wedding related events we enjoyed the sunny weather and Belfast.  Breakfast each day quickly settled into a routine of meeting with grandchildren and their parents at Established, a café we seem to visit during every Belfast trip.  The food is simple but just right for me and the Americano coffee is great.  We also had excellent lunches there and at General Merchants in Ormeau Road.  Belfast is small relative to, say Bristol, London or Edinburgh but it has become well equipped with enough excellent, modern cafes and restaurants.

Belfast’s Botanic Gardens And Ulster Museum

We wandered through the Botanic Gardens and visited the Ulster Museum again.  Our intention was to visit an exhibition on Belfast political murals.  That was closed so we diverted to another exhibition of textiles created around the world to illustrate conflict and humanitarian issues (“Threads of Empowerment: Conflict Textiles’ International Journey”).

Inside The “Threads of Empowerment” Exhibition
A Collective Catalonian Arpillera Called ‘Hands On’ Showing Community Self Help With Over 200 Characters – One Of The More Positive Pieces On Show

We had seen something similar at Kettles Yard, Cambridge about a year ago.  That had exhibited Palestinian embroidery.  This Ulster Museum exhibition covered a wider international scope.  Many of the works focused on South American conflicts and especially ‘The Disappeared’ but the most moving works for me were reflections on the Holocaust by Heidi Drahota, a German (below).

The museum has an excellent ceramics section and a very good permanent exhibition covering the Northern Irish Troubles which we saw last visit.  We saved revisiting the latter for another trip so as not to risk the upbeat mood of the weekend.  Not that much could have dented that. 

Inside Ulster Museum: The Ceramics Section

It was great that the wider family made the effort to come to the wedding, it was great to meet or re-meet the married couple’s friends, it was great that the sun shone and that the whole event passed off in lovely locations without a blemish.  It was a perfect Belfast wedding and we are very happy that YS and his partner have (finally) ‘tied the knot’ and that we have more visits to Northern Ireland in prospect.

Views Of Belfast – We’ll Be Back Soon!

Roman Wedding

The wedding of one of Jane’s nieces – the set piece event of our Italy trip – followed sharp on the heels of our family holiday near Orvieto in Italy.  We travelled south to Rome and dropped off First Grandchild and his parents with a couple of goodbye sniffles and sobs.  We then made our way to our Airbnb in central Rome to grab a bite to eat and change into our wedding garb.

The formal element of the wedding was held in the City Hall in the heart of Rome and adjoining the Piazza Del Campidoglio.   We gathered in a rather sumptuous room decorated in a deep red with several big flags and banners.  It was an impressive backdrop to a lovely bi-lingual ceremony in which Italian law set out the obligations of both bride and groom with regard to, among other things, living arrangements, looking out for one another and bringing up children.  There was much cheering, primarily and initially from the Italian groom’s side of the family, to underline the Italian-flavoured drama of the event.

Piazza Del Campidoglio (With The City Hall To The Right)

The reception was on the outskirts of Rome in and around a lovely old house which was accommodating the now married couple their closest relatives.  The food and drinks had been carefully selected by the groom and the local wines were various and, I thought, very good indeed.  The buffet of antipasto was splendid. I probably overindulged given that this was followed by a lovely four-course meal but the spiced cold pork on offer was to die for and I didn’t hold back.

Arriving At The Wedding Reception

The wedding speeches were delivered in Italian, English and Madagascan to reflect the roots of the main protagonists and their best men and women.  Printed transcriptions of these helped us understand the humour and the emotions in these speeches and they all added value.

Then, just as the evening chill was starting to become noticeable – especially for the relatively lightly-clad women at the party – there was dancing.  Following the initial wedding dance standards there was, as expected, an even more ebullient period of Madagascan music and dancing.  This included the Madagascan equivalent of the Conga executed with much enthusiasm.  The Madagascans in Jane’s wider family do love a good dance!

DJ’s took over and it was clear that, for some, it would be a long night of dance, song and drinking.  We grabbed a cab just before midnight and before my alcohol unit count became innumerable.  The whole day had been long but very memorable and enjoyable.

Next day, before our evening flight home, Jane and I did some walking and sightseeing around central Rome.  We had last been here together in the 1980’s before we had children.  I missed out on a subsequent visit with Jane due to pressure of work and a ‘persuasive’ boss so it was lovely to have another opportunity to see some of the iconic Roman buildings in great weather.

The Trevi Fountain – One Of Rome’s Many Tourist Magnets
The Parthenon (With Tourists Like Me!)

We wove through the massed crowds of tourists to see the Trevi Fountain and the Parthenon.  We strolled further afield to towards Piazza Navona take in the atmosphere and revisit the fountains there.  Unfortunately, these fountains, like many monuments in Rome, are currently under restoration in advance of the 2025 Rome Jubilee.  We satisfied ourselves with other sights and appreciated them in the early Autumn Roman sunshine.

Piazza Navona

In the afternoon, I spent a couple of hours meandering around the Colosseum and the large area of various ruins and buildings to the immediate west.  Much of this has been closed off to the non-paying public since I was last in Rome.  I couldn’t bear the idea of the queuing in crowds and heat for tickets and entrance.  Anyway, there was still more than enough to see for free before my knee started to complain and I needed a rest.

The Colosseum, Rome

More Rome!

Indeed, a highlight was entering a church – I failed to note which one – which had some lovely baroque music playing, slumping onto a pew and relaxing to the point of a brief doze.  Bathed in all the memories of the wedding and the last week with the family, I felt chilled out and content. 

The Church Where I Dozed – Beautiful and Restful

With that, I made my way back to the Airbnb and then, with Jane, to our flight home.  Even the train strike causing cancellation of trains to the airport couldn’t shake my feeling of well-being.  It had been a very good week indeed.

Family Holiday In Italy

Jane and I, our three sons, their wives/fiancées and our two grandchildren all made our way to a rather splendid villa in Italy for what turned out to be a wonderful holiday; all that I had hoped for and more. 

The Dramatic First View Of Our Holiday Villa As We Arrived

Getting everyone together for a family holiday for the first time like that was a feat of flexibility on the part of those, unlike me, who are still managing careers.  It also involved precise scheduling and effective logistics including three hire cars, enterprising use of car boot space, and multiple airports and pick up points.  I felt very privileged and lucky that we could manage it.

We stayed in a villa near Lake Bolsena, about 90 minutes north of Rome (where, at the end of the holiday, Jane and I, plus Youngest Son and fiancée, went to the wedding of one of Jane’s nieces).  The villa was in a very rural, rather remote setting overlooking an ancient volcanic caldera and Lake Bolsena within that.  It was an elegant, comfortable and well-equipped villa.  Importantly, for the relative youngsters and, especially, the grandchildren, it had a substantial swimming pool.

The Evening View From Our Terrace With Lake Bolsena In The Distance

We had every breakfast and evening meal at the villa.  The group included excellent cooks and baristas plus willing clearer-uppers afterwards.  I barely got a look in on either aspect but took responsibility for the recycling and most of the considerable waste disposal.  Despite the local market and supermarkets being a little disappointing we ate extremely well and the bottles and cans recycling bins were repeatedly overflowing.

Catching Stray Wildlife In The Pool

Orvieto was about an hour’s drive away and is perched on the top of a prehistoric volcanic plug.  We had been there when our children were very young but while memories fade, of course, the key visitor sites were unchanged.  Given we visited the city just out of prime tourist season this time, the crowds felt substantial.  However, as ever, a few yards away from the main tourist routes, the streets were quiet and picturesque. 

Quiet Orvieto Square In Front Of The Church of Sant Andrea And A 12-sided Tower

After a very good lunch with the grandchildren and their parents, Jane and I left the group to visit Orvieto Cathedral which dominates the city and which can be seen from many miles away.  The façade is wonderfully preserved and impressive.  The other walls are also memorable – both inside and out – since they, and the internal columns supporting the roof, are unusually, horizontally striped with alternate layers of basalt and travertine.  It was great to be able to visit and remember it again.

Views Of Orvieto Cathedral

We visited a few of the smaller towns around Lake Bolsena.  Now edging beyond the tourist season, some of these reflected what we have read about small rural Mediterranean villages gradually emptying out and becoming inactive backwaters.  Our closest town was Grotte Di Castro.  It is beautifully (but seemingly precariously) situated on a high ridge; of course, these hill-top towns are two-a-penny in much of Italy but even so it seemed surprisingly quiet and there were a lot of ‘For Sale’ signs.

Views From And In Grotte Di Castro

Montefiascone on the opposite side of Lake Bolsena was bigger and busier.  It too had wonderful hill top vistas and inviting alleys and cobbled streets.  Their steps and sharp inclines challenged my currently dodgy left knee but I think the exercise did it good.  While in the town, we were lucky to avoid the storms that seemed to be gathering all around us and, having failed – not for the first time – to find a restaurant both open and selling pizza before sundown, we headed back to our villa via Bolsena. 

Stormy Weather Over Montefiascone With Views Of Lake Bolsena and Cattedrale Di Santa Margherita

The town of Bolsena was much closer to our villa and did offer takeaway pizza during the day.  We sampled that with First Grandchild (FG) in mind couple of times since he had said a few weeks before that pizza was what he was looking forward to most about the holiday.  In the end, I think we were more concerned about tracking down pizza than he was.

Bolsena

Bolsena is another attractive town perched on a volcanic outcrop.  Several of us had a good lunch in a restaurant adjacent to the lake.  While FG played with a new remote-control toy, several of us took turns to take very pleasant strolls down a street lined with huge plane trees and up through its pedestrianised alleys to the castle and main church.  From the top of the town there were broad views of the Lake Bolsena, its islands and the surrounding ridges.  Second Grandchild (SG) was entertainable, calm and happy (as usual), FG had his new toy, and we all had a relaxed time in the town.

Views of Bolsena

Lake Bolsena is the largest volcanic lake in Europe and there was volcanic activity within it as little as 2,000 years ago.  With it being so close to our villa, a swim in its waters was on the holiday agenda for many (but not me; I really don’t like getting wet!)  SG and his Dad also missed out because it was nap-time but the rest of the group had a boisterous time in the water.  FG loved the water and all the splashing with his Granny, Mum, Dad, aunts and uncles.  I took charge of capturing the action on camera with the big sky and gorgeous landscape around the lake in the background.

Frolics In Lake Bolsena Under A Lovely Blue Sky

Much more swimming, splashing and fun and games were done at our villa.  It was lovely to see both grandchildren ignoring the coolness of the water and just loving every moment in it.  I also loved the opportunity to take both of them around the villa on little walks.  FG is old enough now to appreciate nature and we had lots of lizards, millipedes and ants to observe and blackberries to eat on our ‘adventures’ (as he called them).

Quality Time With FG

And then it was time for us to leave all this fun and conviviality.  It had been so good to see everyone enjoy the holiday with its mix of group and separate activity, the games, the food and drink and the diverse chat.  I hope we can repeat the model again but practicalities may intervene to prevent that so, for now, I am just going to continue to soak up the happy memories.

Goodbye, Family Holiday In Italy

A Stag In Active August

Retirement in August has felt busy so far.  There have been several separate events to enjoy.  In between these, I have been walking while listening to political podcasts, tidying our field and garden, visiting the local recycling tip with multiple dumpy bags of green (mainly thistle, bramble and bindweed) waste, and enjoying our local community hub: the village pub. 

I visited my Dad and sister in Nottingham for the first time since the end of his innovative and apparently very successful cancer treatment.  I’m really proud of him; he has stuck with all the hospital visits, the injections and the infusions and they have not only benefitted him, but furthered cancer research.  It was great to catch up with them and, for a change, win at our games of Mahjong. 

Dad Ringing The Hospital ‘Ward Bell’ To Celebrate His End Of Treatment

The football season has restarted and, during my brief stay in Nottingham, I managed to get to Boston in Lincolnshire to see my dear Forest Green Rovers treat me to a rare, stonking win.  After two successive, distressing relegations, we seem to have found our natural level again.

Boston Football Club: Nickname The Pilgrims Because So Many Original Pilgrim Fathers Migrated To The Americas From Boston

Whilst in Boston I had time to climb the church tower and take in some aerial views of Boston and the very flat surrounding landscape.  The church is large and the tower is impressive.  The port and its surrounding sluice gate system was also substantial but is now looking run down.  Indeed, much of the town looked as though it needs a face lift.

Views Across Boston, The Port And The Church
An Attractive Part Of Boston Next to The River Witham With The Tide In

Also in August, Jane and I have visited Bath, dropped in on Second Grandchild in Bristol, hosted Youngest Son (YS) as he has worked his way through his busy month of multiple stag dos, weddings and video shoots, and attended a talk on artistic gardening in Stroud. 

Amid all this activity the most unusual event for me was the opportunity to attend part of YS’s own Stag Weekend.  That was a lot of fun – even though I opted out of the most boisterous activities and those requiring the heaviest drinking penalties.  It was lovely to be invited and great to catch up with old friends and meet a few of YS’s best mates who I didn’t already know. 

Sunset Over Stag Weekend Tents

Middle Son kindly gave up his bed to allow me a relatively comfortable, though rather hungover, sleep in a large tent also shared by Oldest Son; it was my first experience of something resembling camping since YS was at Primary School and a lot more restful than then!

The main purpose of a visit to Bath was to equip YS and myself with light suits for YS’s wedding and for the wedding of one of Jane’s nieces in Italy next month.  With that aspect of the trip satisfactorily achieved, I visited The Holburne Museum to see a Henry Moore exhibition. 

This was a small exhibition of Henry Moore’s small works.  Many of his familiar themes such as mother and child, helmets, family groups, reclining figures in stone, wood and metal were covered in a single room.  The breadth was admirable but it took a while to get used to the delicacy of the work having been used to the more massive Henry Moore sculptures I have seen in the past.  In truth, only a few of the displays in this exhibition really stood out for me but a couple were lovely and it was worth the visit.

On the way out I popped into a separate exhibition in the Museum by Mr Doodle (aka Sam Cox).  He is clearly into fun art and the room completely covered in his ‘doodles’ (see below) certainly raised a smile.

Closer to home we went to a talk on ‘Where Gardening Meets Art’ at the Museum in the Park in Stroud.  The Museum has a lovely terraced and walled garden that I hadn’t visited since shortly after it was built and planted several years ago.  The sun was shining and the garden looked splendid.

The Walled Garden At Museum In The Park, Stroud

The talk itself was preceded by an exhibition of gardening and plant inspired artworks by Cleo Mussi, who’s work we know well, and Fiona Haser Bizony, founder of Electric Daisy Flower Farm.  I liked several of Cleo’s mosaics, especially the simpler ones, but we quickly moved outside to the garden in evening sun and a small bar offering locally brewed beer.

Cleo Mussi’s Hands Mosaics At Museum In The Park, Stroud

Jane had booked the evening and I didn’t know what to expect from the talk.  In the event, it was efficiently introduced and a thoroughly entertaining.  The main speaker was Charlotte Molesworth who has a renowned garden in Benendon, Kent.  She was terrific.  She had a lot of good sense to share and did it very amusingly.  Her anecdotes were warm and lovely and she had a great answer to every question.  The whole evening exceeded my expectations severalfold.

Charlotte Molesworth Speaking About Where Gardening Meets Art

August – and, unfortunately, summer – is now drawing to a close.  The final week will be punctuated by further visits to The Hog, our local pub, for its Summer Bank Holiday Hogfest (a beer, music and food festival) and then the monthly quiz.  I am also looking forward hugely to Forest Green Rovers’ first home game of the season on the club’s brand-new, hybrid (5% plastic) pitch. 

But then my thoughts will turn to our family holiday in Italy prior to Jane’s niece’s wedding in Rome.  I can’t wait to see the two grandchildren together amongst our sons and their partners.  It is going to be a real treat to have everyone together.

Resolutions And Houghton Hall

I have made patchy progress in adhering to my 2024 New Year resolutions during the first half of this year.  I’m ok with alcohol targets and weight management.  As planned, I’m spending more quality time reading books and I’m listening to less (largely agitating or depressing) news on the radio and television.  However, I’m not doing enough back exercises despite grumbling about a stiff back.  Also, my resolve to step up my creative activity has been weak since my visible darning of a load of socks and my devising of an Easter treasure hunt for First Grandchild.

Additionally, since a good start early in the year, Jane and I have not been consistent in addressing our joint aim of embarking on more short trips away from home.  We set this target with the intention of responding to periods of good weather and our relatively flexible diaries to see bits of the UK we are not familiar with.  In part that has been because the abnormally cool, wet weather hasn’t been particularly conducive to such thinking.  Also, my diary has been less flexible since I took up a new commitment on Wednesday afternoons to listen to children read as part of the local ‘Read With Me’ scheme.

Houghton Hall And Gardens, Norfolk

We have done much better as the weather has improved and the school term drew to a close.  We have followed up our trip to Sissinghurst, Rye and Lewes with another lengthy excursion to Houghton Hall and Gardens in north Norfolk, and then on to visit friends in north Suffolk.  On all these travels this month, we were blessed with very good weather. 

Houghton Hall was impressive, the gardens-cum-sculpture park there were interesting and it was great to see our longstanding friends again.

Houghton Hall West Wing (From The Cafe)

We left early with the intention of arriving at the Houghton Hall at opening time but, after encountering tedious traffic jams around Kings Lynn, arrived a little after midday.  The car park was already extending into the overflow area but the grounds of the house are so huge that, once we got into them past the café and exhibitions (including a truly remarkable exhibition of the Cholmondeley Collection of Model Soldiers) in the splendid West Wing, the crowds seemed to melt away.

The Remarkable Model Soldier Collection of the 6th Marquess of Cholmondeley Spanning Two Densely Packed Rooms

The gardens double up as a sculpture park and, immediately, we could see Antony Gormley statues dotting the acres of lawn.  Jane explained that the 100 statues comprising his work called ‘Time Horizon’ had been installed so that they were all standing at the same height above sea level.  Given the undulating land of the gardens, this concept meant that some statues barely were barely visible – with just their heads showing – while others were on tall plinths.  We have seen the multiple statues (of himself) several times before in a variety of settings but this idea of consistent altitude was a new and amusing one for me.

Antony Gormley Statues – All At The Same Height Above Sea Level – At Houghton Hall Gardens

In the South Wing there was a small, temporary exhibition of Magdalene Odundo’s work called ‘Metamorphosis and Transformation’, an installation of blown glass vessels apparently based on an ancient Egyptian ear stud found.  That was impressive although I found some of her other work set out in the main house elegant but a little distracting in its contrast with the heavy furnishings and wall art there.

Metamorphosis and Transformation (2011) By Magdalene Odundo

Elsewhere in the gardens, we saw sculpture by other artists we have encountered before such as Richard Long, Sean Scully and Rachel Whiteread, plus several others I wasn’t familiar with.  I particularly enjoyed ‘Sybil Hedge’ by Anya Gallaccio.  This was an unusual ‘sculpture’ made from a large, winding beech hedge that worked well in the large scale of the garden.

‘Houghton Hut’ By Rachel Whiteread
A Section Of ‘Sybil Hedge’ By Anya Gallaccio At Houghton Hall Gardens

The Palladian style house was bathed in sun but, inside, the rooms were dark to preserve the furnishings, tapestries and artworks.  As Jane remarked, despite the size of the rooms, they felt almost claustrophobic after the expanses of the grounds.  The tapestries that adorned many of the walls contributed to that feeling but they were remarkably well preserved and had interesting content.  The sumptuous rooms, with their blurry views out onto the lawns and deer park though original, handmade glass, were well worth the extra visit fee.

Inside Houghton Hall

The highlight of the visit for me was the Walled Garden.  This was beautiful at every turn and a riot of colour.  An interesting twist was that vegetables were grown between the flowers and, here too, Gormley’s statues (on plinths here because of the lower altitude) were watching over us.  It was clear that the volunteers and gardeners that manage the garden are not blighted by the multitude of slugs and snails as we are back at home; everything looked vibrant and healthy.

From Houghton Hall we drove south to Eye in Suffolk.  By this time, we needed to charge up the car.  We have noticed a huge improvement in the availability of electric vehicle charging points during our last few trips around the United Kingdom.  Certainly, both our charge ups on this trip were very quick and easy.

Another of Gormley’s Statues, This Time In Houghton Hall Looking Out At Others (Incredibly, Given The Amount Of Work Involved In Setting It Up, The Installation Is Only Until October 2024)

We arrived at our friend’s house in time for drinks in the sunshine.  There was also time for an evening tour of their garden, the private allotments adjoining the garden which they own and manage, and the entrance to the woodland/wetlands beyond the allotments that are now owned by our friends and others in the community.  The various types of land they look after are lovely slices of nature.  They are also a labour of love although one task not needed is slug management – their chickens prodding around in the allotments seem to deal with that!

The excellent and copious hospitality we were given in terms of food and drink put my New Year resolution targets for weight and alcohol consumption under pressure but, as ever, it was great to catch up with old friends.  Plus, our target to have more days away from home exploring the UK was helped along.

Birthday Rye

After a delightful visit to Sissinghurst Castle Gardens we travelled on to Rye for further celebration of Jane’s birthday.  Like Sissinghurst, we had visited Rye before but not for many years and so it felt like a new discovery to me.  Also, as at Sissinghurst, we were blessed with great weather throughout our stay.

Rye Town Gates

We got ourselves unloaded into a room in the new, neat complex of rooms making up the bulk of accommodation in The George In Rye.  This is an impressive-looking Georgian coaching inn cum hotel on the High Street.  It was renovated and re-opened in 2006 after falling into disrepair but was badly damaged by fire a few years ago.  It is now once again a very comfortable place to stay with some eclectic room decorations (including local pottery and wallpaper), a lovely bright courtyard for al fresco refreshments, and a timber framed bar area.  It was a nice retreat after our wanders around the town.

Rye Street Views (Including ‘Rye Water House’ – An Old Cistern, Top Right)

Jane had chosen a visit to Rye for her birthday treat mainly so she could visit her favourite textile and clothes pattern shop: Merchant & Mills.  She duly paid a couple of visits to the shop and made a few purchases while I perused the local sights.  Jane’s Christmas present from me this year is already organised and is a residential course at Merchant & Mills early next year – this present choosing and giving lark is getting easier and easier under Jane’s direction!

Rye is an interesting town with a long history.  Perhaps the most notable thing about its history and geography is that it was once a thriving fishing village and then a Cinque Port – part of a confederation of ports on the south coast of England working together for defence and trade purposes.  The sea has now retreated so now the harbour is a much-diminished facility on the River Rother that is a mile or two from the actual coast.

Rye Boatyards A Little Upstream From The Original Rye Harbour (Now Largely Silted Up)

We fitted in a bit of fresh air walking along that coast and sauntered for a while along Camber Sands.  We both always enjoy walking near the sea.  The tide was out and, apart from a large group doing outdoor yoga, the beach was almost empty, and it was a very relaxing place to be. 

Not Many People On Camber Sands!
Patterns In The Camber Sands

Nearby was a farm shop with several electric vehicle chargers; being able to charge up while looking at a sound plant selection and then drinking a coffee added to our chilled out feeling.

Because of its importance as a key defensive hub in the Middle Ages, Rye has town walls and a castle set on top of the hill overlooking the surrounding flatlands and river valleys.  There are many picturesque, cobbled streets of half-timbered houses surrounding the St Mary’s Church. 

St Mary’s Church, Rye

The church offered a trickily narrow, very steep and low-ceilinged stairway up past the church bells to a roof view of the town.  I only bumped my head on the way up once and the end result views were worth it.

Views Of Rye From The Church Tower: Lichen-Coloured Tiles and The River Rother Making Its Way To The Coast

In and around the High Street there are some interesting old buildings, shops and galleries.  We again took advantage of our National Trust membership to explore Lamb House.  This early Georgian house and garden has been home to a number of authors over the last century or so including Henry James.  We spent a pleasant hour there – the sort of visit that we might not have bothered with had we not had National Trust Membership but which turned out to be a very peaceful interlude.

Lamb House and Garden

Whilst in the sunshine there was plenty to enjoy and Jane had also done useful research on where to eat.  We had very good dinners at The George and The Union but the standout meal was lunch at The Fig.  I could have chosen anything on the menu – it all looked so inviting.  The items we actually selected were really tasty.  We found out afterwards that the chef was a finalist on ‘MasterChef’ and I wasn’t surprised given the high quality.

The weather was cloudier and cooler as we left Rye early next morning but Jane’s birthday treat wasn’t quite over since we decided to visit one of her favourite shops on the way back home: Freight in Lewes.  We had made a trip to Lewes about 18 months ago, again primarily to visit Freight.  As expected, Jane was able to find something she liked and, since it was only a day after her birthday, she came out with some new earrings.  Even I can see it is a lovely shop.

Freight, Lewes

While Jane did a circuit of some of the other shops, I wandered around the outer precincts of Lewes Castle

Lewes Castle And The Quaint ‘Round House, Nearby

Then we girded our loins for the lengthy drive home to complete a very fulfilling trip away from home.  In weeks when the sun is shining, the temperature is pleasant and the countryside is lush following a wet Spring, the UK is an absolute treat.

And now I’m off to vote in the UK General Election…. 🙏

Sissinghurst Castle Gardens

Jane said she didn’t want a present for her birthday – I had one planned, honest!  Instead, she wanted to go on a trip to Sussex and, specifically, to Rye.  She booked a hotel there and sorted out an itinerary of things to do.  Part of that itinerary was to visit Sissinghurst Castle Garden in Kent on the way.

Approaching Sissinghurst Castle Gardens

We had visited the garden early in our relationship, a few decades ago.  I barely remember that.  Even when confronted with the garden this time, I could only recall the old brick buildings not the walled gardens.  Jane thinks we went in a different season to this time; perhaps that’s why I don’t really remember the garden but my memory is like a sieve these days (as our local pub-quiz regularly demonstrates.)  Anyway, the gardens looked beautifully cared for and uniformly splendid.

The garden has developed considerably over the last century.  It was transformed from the 1930’s onwards by Vita Sackville-West and her husband, Harold Nicolson, until their deaths in the 1960s.  In 1967 the garden, castle and associated farm were taken over by the National Trust.  Since then, Harold Nicholson’s grandson and his wife, the famous gardener, Sarah Raven, developed the garden. 

More recently, the original ideas to develop a Greek-style garden in one of its parts have been re-implemented under the guidance of yet another famous gardener, Dan Pearson, to create an area called the Delos Garden.  We visited on a gorgeous sunny day with some real heat in the air and the Delos Garden was one of the great highlights of our visit.  It really did have a Mediterranean feel.

The Delos Garden

Elsewhere, in one of the several walled garden quadrants, was the White Garden.  Here too, the timing of our visit was perfect.  Not only was the sun shining but the old, huge, central climbing rose (rosa mulliganii) is apparently only in full bloom briefly and yet we saw its lovely blossom at its peak.

The White Garden

We spent well over an hour meandering around the garden, investigating all its nooks and crannies.  Then we retraced many of our steps to take another look.  The variety and density of the planting is amazing.  Every time I thought: ‘ooh I haven’t seen one of this or that species of shrub or flower’, one would turn up around the next corner.  In all directions, the colours and sheer health of the plants was breathtaking.

To cap the visit, I ventured up to the top of the castle for an aerial view of the garden.  In a way, I wished I had done this at the start.  That way, the layout of the garden would have been clearer from the start.  But perhaps that would have detracted in some way from the excitement I got in moving through an arch or turning a corner as I had moved through the sections of the garden.  Either way, the views from the top of the castle were as spectacular as expected.

Views From The Top Of Sissinghurst Castle

We were so fortunate to see the gardens on such a beautiful day.  Surprisingly, there was not a huge number of visitors.  The layout of the garden into walled sections also helped to give a feeling of seclusion and nowhere felt crowded. 

The entrance cost may be a deterrent for many (£15/adult).  Again, we are so lucky in that we were both given lifetime National Trust Membership by my parents when we were married.  It was an extravagant gift but one of the best value and valued ones we have ever received – the cost of life membership now is eyewatering.

We had had another lovely day courtesy of that gift and the good work of the National Trust.  It’s a really special garden and well worth a visit – especially in June.  We drove on to Rye with a bounce in our hearts.

Slivers of Summer

Overall, the weather during the last few weeks has been rather disappointing.  The meadow grass in our field that usually waves gently in sunlight at this time of year has, instead, collapsed in the windy wet.  The cool and damp spring and early summer has meant growth of vegetable seedlings has been slow.  Many have been eradicated by slugs and snails who have revelled in the damp conditions.  Fortunately, there have been several lovely days of sun and some of those have been when it has mattered most. 

Roses In Rain: Along The Permissive Footpath Through Ruskin Mill Into Town

For example, we had a lovely sunny afternoon during which we were able to visit Second Grandchild (SG) in Bristol and to help his parents with their garden.  We got a lot done – though there is more potential to fill the vegetable and flower beds with a bit of home produce and colour and we look forward to helping again there.  Having said that, the highlight of this trip was having the chance to give SG a bath.  He has discovered the joy of moving his little limbs and they didn’t stop threshing throughout his little wash.

We also had a relatively warm and dry evening for a wedding party in Kew in west London with some past neighbours of ours.  It was a lovely celebration of their wedding – some 14 years after first meeting – held in their garden with opportunities to meet a number of other old friends from our time in Kew.  The drinking started early and finished very late and I can’t remember when I last had such a bad hangover as a souvenir of an entertaining evening.

I have had to pick and choose my moments for local walks in the sunshine.  On one of those sunny days, Jane and I went to a couple of National Garden Scheme open gardens a couple of valleys away from our home.  One of these was very good; the other, not so much.  But regardless of the quality, it is always interesting to see a slightly different part of the Stroud Valleys and to have a nose about in someone else’s back yard.

National Gardens Scheme Gardens In France Lynch, Gloucestershire

Most importantly, despite the gloomy BBC weather forecast for the weekend, we had good, chilly but bright weather for our latest trip to Edinburgh to see First Grandchild (FG) and his parents.  As usual, we were treated to great hospitality, FG was on fine form and Edinburgh was full of interesting things to do. 

Little Boy, Big Gunnera In The Royal Botanic Gardens, Edinburgh

In between our compliance with FG’s constant demands to ‘play a little bit’ we visited a few art exhibitions, took FG as usual to the outstanding Royal Botanic Gardens and National Museum of Scotland, walked the streets of Stockbridge and along the Water of Leith, popped into our favourite bar (Spry) and had a lively evening out with FG eating pizza at MILK.

Beyond the wonderful entrance hall of the National Portrait Gallery of Scotland was a recent rehanging of the main hall of portraits that focused on modern portrait creation.  Many of the paintings and photographs were new to me and several were impressive.  The gallery is quiet, compact and one of my favourites.

Portrait Of John Burnside (Scottish Poet) By Alan J Lawson, National Portrait Gallery, Edinburgh

We also visited the National Gallery of Scotland.  Walking to it across Princes Street gave us a great view of the hordes of ‘’Swifties’ heading off by bus and tram to Murrayfield for one of three concerts Taylor Swift was holding over the weekend.  The sun was shining but there was a cool wind.  I felt sympathy for the majority of fans who had diligently dressed up in extravagant boots and light sparkly skirts and tops – as Swifties apparently do – given the expectation of a big drop in temperature while they queued to get back into town after the concert and night drew in.

The Current Royal Scottish Academy Annual Exhibition At The National Gallery Of Scotland

In the gallery was a showpiece ‘national treasure’: a painting by Vermeer that had been put on special show to commemorate the 200th year of the National Gallery.  It is lovely of course but we spent most of our time in the new gallery extension and among the pictures by The Glasgow Boys (and Girls).  The new gallery is a wonderful, light space with great views (see below) and, on a Friday, not crowded despite the multitude outside waiting to get to see Taylor Swift. 

To complete our cultural ride, we visited a lovely little exhibition in Leith.  This was in an old, small but elegant building – an ex-pharmacy apparently – owned by Mote102 as a charming pop-up space for shops and artists.  It had been partially restored so that some of its original (Georgian or Victorian) features were visible and it was a good fit for the work on show. 

Works By Gail Turpin At Mote102, Leith

The artist on show – and present for a short talk – is an old acquaintance of Jane’s called Gail Turpin.  Jane had found out that she was now based in Edinburgh from the bride at the wedding celebration we had attended a couple of weeks previously.  All three, and a few other friends, went on an eventful holiday in Greece a few decades ago. 

After Jane had reminisced with Gail about that, I perused the textiles and drawing on show and then left Jane to the talk while I found a small present for FG and parked myself in Spry Wine Bar.

Another Part of Gail Turpin’s Exhibition, Leith

We travelled to and from Edinburgh by train this time.  That had its benefits; the journey was an hour shorter despite a train cancellation and we had booked seats so it was a relaxed journey.  Train cancellations are not so frustrating when one is retired and there aren’t meetings to get to ad hard deadlines to meet.  Also, while in Edinburgh, Jane didn’t have to keep thinking about moving the car to avoid parking restrictions (I rarely get involved in this aspect), we avoided car parking costs and didn’t have to worry about charging the car up. 

Waverley Railway Station, Edinburgh

However, despite the avoidance of car parking costs, the train is a more expensive option.  Also, it seems that, on this occasion, there was a hidden downside in that the packed train was carrying the coronavirus.  Jane caught it and has had a few rough days as a result.  Fortunately, for the second time when Jane has had Covid, I seem to have dodged the bullet.  Lucky me not (so far) to have never caught the dreaded Covid when so many others have!