Roman Wedding

The wedding of one of Jane’s nieces – the set piece event of our Italy trip – followed sharp on the heels of our family holiday near Orvieto in Italy.  We travelled south to Rome and dropped off First Grandchild and his parents with a couple of goodbye sniffles and sobs.  We then made our way to our Airbnb in central Rome to grab a bite to eat and change into our wedding garb.

The formal element of the wedding was held in the City Hall in the heart of Rome and adjoining the Piazza Del Campidoglio.   We gathered in a rather sumptuous room decorated in a deep red with several big flags and banners.  It was an impressive backdrop to a lovely bi-lingual ceremony in which Italian law set out the obligations of both bride and groom with regard to, among other things, living arrangements, looking out for one another and bringing up children.  There was much cheering, primarily and initially from the Italian groom’s side of the family, to underline the Italian-flavoured drama of the event.

Piazza Del Campidoglio (With The City Hall To The Right)

The reception was on the outskirts of Rome in and around a lovely old house which was accommodating the now married couple their closest relatives.  The food and drinks had been carefully selected by the groom and the local wines were various and, I thought, very good indeed.  The buffet of antipasto was splendid. I probably overindulged given that this was followed by a lovely four-course meal but the spiced cold pork on offer was to die for and I didn’t hold back.

Arriving At The Wedding Reception

The wedding speeches were delivered in Italian, English and Madagascan to reflect the roots of the main protagonists and their best men and women.  Printed transcriptions of these helped us understand the humour and the emotions in these speeches and they all added value.

Then, just as the evening chill was starting to become noticeable – especially for the relatively lightly-clad women at the party – there was dancing.  Following the initial wedding dance standards there was, as expected, an even more ebullient period of Madagascan music and dancing.  This included the Madagascan equivalent of the Conga executed with much enthusiasm.  The Madagascans in Jane’s wider family do love a good dance!

DJ’s took over and it was clear that, for some, it would be a long night of dance, song and drinking.  We grabbed a cab just before midnight and before my alcohol unit count became innumerable.  The whole day had been long but very memorable and enjoyable.

Next day, before our evening flight home, Jane and I did some walking and sightseeing around central Rome.  We had last been here together in the 1980’s before we had children.  I missed out on a subsequent visit with Jane due to pressure of work and a ‘persuasive’ boss so it was lovely to have another opportunity to see some of the iconic Roman buildings in great weather.

The Trevi Fountain – One Of Rome’s Many Tourist Magnets
The Parthenon (With Tourists Like Me!)

We wove through the massed crowds of tourists to see the Trevi Fountain and the Parthenon.  We strolled further afield to towards Piazza Navona take in the atmosphere and revisit the fountains there.  Unfortunately, these fountains, like many monuments in Rome, are currently under restoration in advance of the 2025 Rome Jubilee.  We satisfied ourselves with other sights and appreciated them in the early Autumn Roman sunshine.

Piazza Navona

In the afternoon, I spent a couple of hours meandering around the Colosseum and the large area of various ruins and buildings to the immediate west.  Much of this has been closed off to the non-paying public since I was last in Rome.  I couldn’t bear the idea of the queuing in crowds and heat for tickets and entrance.  Anyway, there was still more than enough to see for free before my knee started to complain and I needed a rest.

The Colosseum, Rome

More Rome!

Indeed, a highlight was entering a church – I failed to note which one – which had some lovely baroque music playing, slumping onto a pew and relaxing to the point of a brief doze.  Bathed in all the memories of the wedding and the last week with the family, I felt chilled out and content. 

The Church Where I Dozed – Beautiful and Restful

With that, I made my way back to the Airbnb and then, with Jane, to our flight home.  Even the train strike causing cancellation of trains to the airport couldn’t shake my feeling of well-being.  It had been a very good week indeed.

Family Holiday In Italy

Jane and I, our three sons, their wives/fiancées and our two grandchildren all made our way to a rather splendid villa in Italy for what turned out to be a wonderful holiday; all that I had hoped for and more. 

The Dramatic First View Of Our Holiday Villa As We Arrived

Getting everyone together for a family holiday for the first time like that was a feat of flexibility on the part of those, unlike me, who are still managing careers.  It also involved precise scheduling and effective logistics including three hire cars, enterprising use of car boot space, and multiple airports and pick up points.  I felt very privileged and lucky that we could manage it.

We stayed in a villa near Lake Bolsena, about 90 minutes north of Rome (where, at the end of the holiday, Jane and I, plus Youngest Son and fiancée, went to the wedding of one of Jane’s nieces).  The villa was in a very rural, rather remote setting overlooking an ancient volcanic caldera and Lake Bolsena within that.  It was an elegant, comfortable and well-equipped villa.  Importantly, for the relative youngsters and, especially, the grandchildren, it had a substantial swimming pool.

The Evening View From Our Terrace With Lake Bolsena In The Distance

We had every breakfast and evening meal at the villa.  The group included excellent cooks and baristas plus willing clearer-uppers afterwards.  I barely got a look in on either aspect but took responsibility for the recycling and most of the considerable waste disposal.  Despite the local market and supermarkets being a little disappointing we ate extremely well and the bottles and cans recycling bins were repeatedly overflowing.

Catching Stray Wildlife In The Pool

Orvieto was about an hour’s drive away and is perched on the top of a prehistoric volcanic plug.  We had been there when our children were very young but while memories fade, of course, the key visitor sites were unchanged.  Given we visited the city just out of prime tourist season this time, the crowds felt substantial.  However, as ever, a few yards away from the main tourist routes, the streets were quiet and picturesque. 

Quiet Orvieto Square In Front Of The Church of Sant Andrea And A 12-sided Tower

After a very good lunch with the grandchildren and their parents, Jane and I left the group to visit Orvieto Cathedral which dominates the city and which can be seen from many miles away.  The façade is wonderfully preserved and impressive.  The other walls are also memorable – both inside and out – since they, and the internal columns supporting the roof, are unusually, horizontally striped with alternate layers of basalt and travertine.  It was great to be able to visit and remember it again.

Views Of Orvieto Cathedral

We visited a few of the smaller towns around Lake Bolsena.  Now edging beyond the tourist season, some of these reflected what we have read about small rural Mediterranean villages gradually emptying out and becoming inactive backwaters.  Our closest town was Grotte Di Castro.  It is beautifully (but seemingly precariously) situated on a high ridge; of course, these hill-top towns are two-a-penny in much of Italy but even so it seemed surprisingly quiet and there were a lot of ‘For Sale’ signs.

Views From And In Grotte Di Castro

Montefiascone on the opposite side of Lake Bolsena was bigger and busier.  It too had wonderful hill top vistas and inviting alleys and cobbled streets.  Their steps and sharp inclines challenged my currently dodgy left knee but I think the exercise did it good.  While in the town, we were lucky to avoid the storms that seemed to be gathering all around us and, having failed – not for the first time – to find a restaurant both open and selling pizza before sundown, we headed back to our villa via Bolsena. 

Stormy Weather Over Montefiascone With Views Of Lake Bolsena and Cattedrale Di Santa Margherita

The town of Bolsena was much closer to our villa and did offer takeaway pizza during the day.  We sampled that with First Grandchild (FG) in mind couple of times since he had said a few weeks before that pizza was what he was looking forward to most about the holiday.  In the end, I think we were more concerned about tracking down pizza than he was.

Bolsena

Bolsena is another attractive town perched on a volcanic outcrop.  Several of us had a good lunch in a restaurant adjacent to the lake.  While FG played with a new remote-control toy, several of us took turns to take very pleasant strolls down a street lined with huge plane trees and up through its pedestrianised alleys to the castle and main church.  From the top of the town there were broad views of the Lake Bolsena, its islands and the surrounding ridges.  Second Grandchild (SG) was entertainable, calm and happy (as usual), FG had his new toy, and we all had a relaxed time in the town.

Views of Bolsena

Lake Bolsena is the largest volcanic lake in Europe and there was volcanic activity within it as little as 2,000 years ago.  With it being so close to our villa, a swim in its waters was on the holiday agenda for many (but not me; I really don’t like getting wet!)  SG and his Dad also missed out because it was nap-time but the rest of the group had a boisterous time in the water.  FG loved the water and all the splashing with his Granny, Mum, Dad, aunts and uncles.  I took charge of capturing the action on camera with the big sky and gorgeous landscape around the lake in the background.

Frolics In Lake Bolsena Under A Lovely Blue Sky

Much more swimming, splashing and fun and games were done at our villa.  It was lovely to see both grandchildren ignoring the coolness of the water and just loving every moment in it.  I also loved the opportunity to take both of them around the villa on little walks.  FG is old enough now to appreciate nature and we had lots of lizards, millipedes and ants to observe and blackberries to eat on our ‘adventures’ (as he called them).

Quality Time With FG

And then it was time for us to leave all this fun and conviviality.  It had been so good to see everyone enjoy the holiday with its mix of group and separate activity, the games, the food and drink and the diverse chat.  I hope we can repeat the model again but practicalities may intervene to prevent that so, for now, I am just going to continue to soak up the happy memories.

Goodbye, Family Holiday In Italy