Resolutions And Houghton Hall

I have made patchy progress in adhering to my 2024 New Year resolutions during the first half of this year.  I’m ok with alcohol targets and weight management.  As planned, I’m spending more quality time reading books and I’m listening to less (largely agitating or depressing) news on the radio and television.  However, I’m not doing enough back exercises despite grumbling about a stiff back.  Also, my resolve to step up my creative activity has been weak since my visible darning of a load of socks and my devising of an Easter treasure hunt for First Grandchild.

Additionally, since a good start early in the year, Jane and I have not been consistent in addressing our joint aim of embarking on more short trips away from home.  We set this target with the intention of responding to periods of good weather and our relatively flexible diaries to see bits of the UK we are not familiar with.  In part that has been because the abnormally cool, wet weather hasn’t been particularly conducive to such thinking.  Also, my diary has been less flexible since I took up a new commitment on Wednesday afternoons to listen to children read as part of the local ‘Read With Me’ scheme.

Houghton Hall And Gardens, Norfolk

We have done much better as the weather has improved and the school term drew to a close.  We have followed up our trip to Sissinghurst, Rye and Lewes with another lengthy excursion to Houghton Hall and Gardens in north Norfolk, and then on to visit friends in north Suffolk.  On all these travels this month, we were blessed with very good weather. 

Houghton Hall was impressive, the gardens-cum-sculpture park there were interesting and it was great to see our longstanding friends again.

Houghton Hall West Wing (From The Cafe)

We left early with the intention of arriving at the Houghton Hall at opening time but, after encountering tedious traffic jams around Kings Lynn, arrived a little after midday.  The car park was already extending into the overflow area but the grounds of the house are so huge that, once we got into them past the café and exhibitions (including a truly remarkable exhibition of the Cholmondeley Collection of Model Soldiers) in the splendid West Wing, the crowds seemed to melt away.

The Remarkable Model Soldier Collection of the 6th Marquess of Cholmondeley Spanning Two Densely Packed Rooms

The gardens double up as a sculpture park and, immediately, we could see Antony Gormley statues dotting the acres of lawn.  Jane explained that the 100 statues comprising his work called ‘Time Horizon’ had been installed so that they were all standing at the same height above sea level.  Given the undulating land of the gardens, this concept meant that some statues barely were barely visible – with just their heads showing – while others were on tall plinths.  We have seen the multiple statues (of himself) several times before in a variety of settings but this idea of consistent altitude was a new and amusing one for me.

Antony Gormley Statues – All At The Same Height Above Sea Level – At Houghton Hall Gardens

In the South Wing there was a small, temporary exhibition of Magdalene Odundo’s work called ‘Metamorphosis and Transformation’, an installation of blown glass vessels apparently based on an ancient Egyptian ear stud found.  That was impressive although I found some of her other work set out in the main house elegant but a little distracting in its contrast with the heavy furnishings and wall art there.

Metamorphosis and Transformation (2011) By Magdalene Odundo

Elsewhere in the gardens, we saw sculpture by other artists we have encountered before such as Richard Long, Sean Scully and Rachel Whiteread, plus several others I wasn’t familiar with.  I particularly enjoyed ‘Sybil Hedge’ by Anya Gallaccio.  This was an unusual ‘sculpture’ made from a large, winding beech hedge that worked well in the large scale of the garden.

‘Houghton Hut’ By Rachel Whiteread
A Section Of ‘Sybil Hedge’ By Anya Gallaccio At Houghton Hall Gardens

The Palladian style house was bathed in sun but, inside, the rooms were dark to preserve the furnishings, tapestries and artworks.  As Jane remarked, despite the size of the rooms, they felt almost claustrophobic after the expanses of the grounds.  The tapestries that adorned many of the walls contributed to that feeling but they were remarkably well preserved and had interesting content.  The sumptuous rooms, with their blurry views out onto the lawns and deer park though original, handmade glass, were well worth the extra visit fee.

Inside Houghton Hall

The highlight of the visit for me was the Walled Garden.  This was beautiful at every turn and a riot of colour.  An interesting twist was that vegetables were grown between the flowers and, here too, Gormley’s statues (on plinths here because of the lower altitude) were watching over us.  It was clear that the volunteers and gardeners that manage the garden are not blighted by the multitude of slugs and snails as we are back at home; everything looked vibrant and healthy.

From Houghton Hall we drove south to Eye in Suffolk.  By this time, we needed to charge up the car.  We have noticed a huge improvement in the availability of electric vehicle charging points during our last few trips around the United Kingdom.  Certainly, both our charge ups on this trip were very quick and easy.

Another of Gormley’s Statues, This Time In Houghton Hall Looking Out At Others (Incredibly, Given The Amount Of Work Involved In Setting It Up, The Installation Is Only Until October 2024)

We arrived at our friend’s house in time for drinks in the sunshine.  There was also time for an evening tour of their garden, the private allotments adjoining the garden which they own and manage, and the entrance to the woodland/wetlands beyond the allotments that are now owned by our friends and others in the community.  The various types of land they look after are lovely slices of nature.  They are also a labour of love although one task not needed is slug management – their chickens prodding around in the allotments seem to deal with that!

The excellent and copious hospitality we were given in terms of food and drink put my New Year resolution targets for weight and alcohol consumption under pressure but, as ever, it was great to catch up with old friends.  Plus, our target to have more days away from home exploring the UK was helped along.

Birthday Rye

After a delightful visit to Sissinghurst Castle Gardens we travelled on to Rye for further celebration of Jane’s birthday.  Like Sissinghurst, we had visited Rye before but not for many years and so it felt like a new discovery to me.  Also, as at Sissinghurst, we were blessed with great weather throughout our stay.

Rye Town Gates

We got ourselves unloaded into a room in the new, neat complex of rooms making up the bulk of accommodation in The George In Rye.  This is an impressive-looking Georgian coaching inn cum hotel on the High Street.  It was renovated and re-opened in 2006 after falling into disrepair but was badly damaged by fire a few years ago.  It is now once again a very comfortable place to stay with some eclectic room decorations (including local pottery and wallpaper), a lovely bright courtyard for al fresco refreshments, and a timber framed bar area.  It was a nice retreat after our wanders around the town.

Rye Street Views (Including ‘Rye Water House’ – An Old Cistern, Top Right)

Jane had chosen a visit to Rye for her birthday treat mainly so she could visit her favourite textile and clothes pattern shop: Merchant & Mills.  She duly paid a couple of visits to the shop and made a few purchases while I perused the local sights.  Jane’s Christmas present from me this year is already organised and is a residential course at Merchant & Mills early next year – this present choosing and giving lark is getting easier and easier under Jane’s direction!

Rye is an interesting town with a long history.  Perhaps the most notable thing about its history and geography is that it was once a thriving fishing village and then a Cinque Port – part of a confederation of ports on the south coast of England working together for defence and trade purposes.  The sea has now retreated so now the harbour is a much-diminished facility on the River Rother that is a mile or two from the actual coast.

Rye Boatyards A Little Upstream From The Original Rye Harbour (Now Largely Silted Up)

We fitted in a bit of fresh air walking along that coast and sauntered for a while along Camber Sands.  We both always enjoy walking near the sea.  The tide was out and, apart from a large group doing outdoor yoga, the beach was almost empty, and it was a very relaxing place to be. 

Not Many People On Camber Sands!
Patterns In The Camber Sands

Nearby was a farm shop with several electric vehicle chargers; being able to charge up while looking at a sound plant selection and then drinking a coffee added to our chilled out feeling.

Because of its importance as a key defensive hub in the Middle Ages, Rye has town walls and a castle set on top of the hill overlooking the surrounding flatlands and river valleys.  There are many picturesque, cobbled streets of half-timbered houses surrounding the St Mary’s Church. 

St Mary’s Church, Rye

The church offered a trickily narrow, very steep and low-ceilinged stairway up past the church bells to a roof view of the town.  I only bumped my head on the way up once and the end result views were worth it.

Views Of Rye From The Church Tower: Lichen-Coloured Tiles and The River Rother Making Its Way To The Coast

In and around the High Street there are some interesting old buildings, shops and galleries.  We again took advantage of our National Trust membership to explore Lamb House.  This early Georgian house and garden has been home to a number of authors over the last century or so including Henry James.  We spent a pleasant hour there – the sort of visit that we might not have bothered with had we not had National Trust Membership but which turned out to be a very peaceful interlude.

Lamb House and Garden

Whilst in the sunshine there was plenty to enjoy and Jane had also done useful research on where to eat.  We had very good dinners at The George and The Union but the standout meal was lunch at The Fig.  I could have chosen anything on the menu – it all looked so inviting.  The items we actually selected were really tasty.  We found out afterwards that the chef was a finalist on ‘MasterChef’ and I wasn’t surprised given the high quality.

The weather was cloudier and cooler as we left Rye early next morning but Jane’s birthday treat wasn’t quite over since we decided to visit one of her favourite shops on the way back home: Freight in Lewes.  We had made a trip to Lewes about 18 months ago, again primarily to visit Freight.  As expected, Jane was able to find something she liked and, since it was only a day after her birthday, she came out with some new earrings.  Even I can see it is a lovely shop.

Freight, Lewes

While Jane did a circuit of some of the other shops, I wandered around the outer precincts of Lewes Castle

Lewes Castle And The Quaint ‘Round House, Nearby

Then we girded our loins for the lengthy drive home to complete a very fulfilling trip away from home.  In weeks when the sun is shining, the temperature is pleasant and the countryside is lush following a wet Spring, the UK is an absolute treat.

And now I’m off to vote in the UK General Election…. 🙏