Proper Baby-Sitting and Grayson Perry

We have babysat First Grandchild (FG) a few times for short periods during visits to Edinburgh during the last year or so.  It’s been a joy and a privilege to be able to do so. Plus we always enjoy visiting his parents and seeing Edinburgh.

The Water of Leith From Dean Bridge – The Steep Gradients So Near To The Centre Of Edinburgh Still Surprise Me

Our baby-sitting responsibilities went up a notch at the beginning of September when First Grandchild’s (FG’s) parents went to a wedding of an old friend in Spain.  Jane and I were thankful to be asked to baby sit for the 36 hours they were away but were unsure how the experience would go for us and for FG. 

His other grandparents do a lot of babysitting and look after him all day on Thursdays.  But it would be the first time that someone other than a parent would get FG up in the morning (twice), manage his afternoon nap (twice), put him to bed (once), plus feed, entertain and keep him safe in between.  It was our first go at proper grandchild babysitting!

Eldest Son and his wife had departed in the small hours of the night.  Apart from 15 minutes of full-on anxiety and yelling after he woke up that morning, and another five minutes of low-grade moaning after his first nap, FG was fine with the whole weekend. 

First Grandchild Exactly Where We Wanted Him – Asleep With His Monkey and Other Soft Toys

FG knows his routine down to the fine details: which soft toy needs to be kissed goodnight in what order, which book is the last book to be read before bedtime, which bedroom light goes on and off when.  As long as we stuck to that routine and provided plenty of book reading, tower and garage building, and other activities at other times, he was very happy.  FG, his parents in Spain and, certainly, the two of us, all had (tiring) fun.

Of course, we visited a few Edinburgh playgrounds and, as usual, the Royal Botanic Garden with FG while we were with him.  The weather was kind to us and we were able to walk, to and from everywhere and around the gardens, at FG’s pace. 

Like most kids his age he loves being able to take mini-decisions about what to do when and, as grandparents, we have the time to allow that.  That Jane has had a motherhood bringing up three boys and then a career in providing parental advice to troubled mums and dads really helps.  I learnt a lot from her about how to give toddlers options so they feel a semblance of decision making while the adults actually remain in control.

A highlight with FG was a trip to Portobello beach.  We got there early so the crowds were yet to gather in large numbers in the sunny and warm weather.  FG loves the outdoors and the novelty of visiting the coast.  He loved wandering along the shoreline and collecting shells and other debris along it (and, in some sort of memory throwback to my own childhood, so did I).  It was a great way to spend a morning.

First Grandchild (FG) And Granny On Portobello Beach

Another morning with FG was consumed with a trip on the new tram service to and from Leith.  FG was more concerned with engaging with fellow passengers willing to smile at him than with looking out of the window.  He enjoyed the journey and a big vegan biscuit at Williams and Johnson Coffee Co.  Leith appears to be an increasingly cool place to live and work and the tram extension is surely a catalyst for that.

Leith

Before FG’s parents shot off for their whirlwind jaunt to the wedding, we managed a good dose of art and culture by visiting The Scottish Gallery, a nearby private gallery we have visited several times before, and the National Gallery of Scotland.

‘Folk At Heart’ At The Scottish Gallery, Edinburgh

The Scottish Gallery was showing a range of artists embracing traditional folk art.  Although the gallery is quite small, there was plenty to admire.  I particularly liked the woven baskets, the muted colours of some of the naïve style paintings and prints and, downstairs, the textiles by Jane Keith which were innovatively displayed given the compact space.

Textiles By Jane Keith At The Scottish Gallery

The headline exhibition at the National Gallery was a substantial retrospective of Grayson Perry’s work.  I’ve enjoyed Grayson Perry exhibitions before – notably the Summer Exhibition at the Royal Academy in 2018 and, more recently, in Bath.  The latter was a small exhibition of his ceramics where Grayson explained the pieces in his own words. 

Grayson provided the captions for each piece at the National Gallery exhibition too and, apart from the art itself, this was one of the most attractive features of the show.  His art is very accessible anyway but his thoughtful captions alongside each piece were unpretentious, clear and highly explanatory of the themes that have dominated his work since he was a very young man and how they have developed in his mind.

Examples Of Grayson Perry’s Ceramics, Iron And Tapestry Works – With Typical Intense Detail

From the first work – a plate he made in 1983 called ‘Kinky Sex’ – the irreverence of his approach and the courage of his anti-establishmentarianism came through.  But rather than be just a series of bold, even brash statements, the exhibition and particularly Grayson’s own words, drew me into what I see the Guardian newspaper calls ‘a thrumming conversation’. 

Grayson’s ‘Tomb Of The Unknown Craftsman’ (2011)

Some of the pieces on show were beautiful to my eyes, some were rather ugly, but every one of them had something to say and was engaging in some way.  Rather than say more here, this is a link to a video hosted by Grayson describing much of the show: Grayson Perry’s Smash Hits.  Watch out for references to ‘Alan Measles’ who is Grayson’s (troubled) childhood teddy bear who, entertainingly, crops up in various guises throughout the exhibition.

‘Kenilworth AM1’ (Including Alan Measles’s ‘Stunt Double’ In The Box On The Back)

The only downside to the exhibition was that, somehow, I missed the last room and exited prematurely.  Nonetheless I thought it was brilliant.

As was the whole weekend!  Proper baby-sitting was a resounding success and we look forward to doing it again (we are scheduled for a longer stint in April next year during another Spanish wedding trip). 

Having said that, it was great to get home, slot into routines less driven by a 21-month-old, and have a bit of a rest in what remained of summer in our home and garden. 

Late Summer In Our Garden

After An Irish Wedding

I got up a little gingerly on the morning after the wedding.  My alcohol unit count and monthly quota had taken something of a battering the day before and my head was a little fuzzy.  It was a blessing then that the relatives of the bride and groom had laid on a lovely lunch with more drinks, at the wedding reception venue at Ballycurry.  I had enough scope in my alcohol unit quota for a ‘hair of the dog’ or two.

By now, after a damp start, the weather was gorgeous and the manor house and estate looked splendid.  After an excellent buffet lunch, we had the opportunity to see one of the recent ventures the bride’s brother has initiated to diversify revenues into the estate farm.  This was a substantial film set that has been used by the BBC and, latterly, for streamed series such as Vikings and The Last Duel.  The scale of the set was impressive and now the trick will be to find new ways of using it for further dramatic series.

The Film Set With The Estate House Beyond

The next day, our last full day in Ireland, again started with dreary weather.  We considered abandoning ill-formed plans to visit local gardens and to visit Dublin’s galleries and museums instead.  But as we left our Airbnb, blue sky appeared and we headed east over the mountains again to Glendalough.

Glendalough

This is an ancient monastic settlement, set in a glacial valley, and now a big draw for tourists.  We arrived just in time to find a parking spot among hundreds of cars and a fleet of large coaches.  The ruins of the towers, monuments and chapels are very picturesque.  The quaintness of the scene was enhanced by the presence of semi-tame deer mooching between the gravestones despite the crowds. 

Deer Amongst The Gravestones At Glendalough

Rather than loiter among the throng of tourists, or embark on the suggested nearby woodland walks, we headed off to lunch at Powerscourt Gardens.

Powerscourt Gardens (Including, Apparently, The Longest Herbaceous Border in Ireland)

The mansion at Powerscourt was destroyed by fire in 1974 and has been restored since as a tourist destination with a few high-quality shops (including a couple of Jane’s favourites) and a restaurant.  We were able to bag a restaurant seat by the window overlooking the 47 acre expanse of formal gardens and arboretum.  The view was great and the food was excellent quality and value. 

Powerscourt Gardens And Great Sugar Loaf Mountain

We worked lunch off a bit with an extended walk around the gardens.  These are varied in format and large enough to absorb the large number of visitors, especially as we moved away from the main building.  The sun was creating lovely dappled shade, the borders were full of colour, bees and butterflies, and the views were splendid.  I enjoyed our relaxed time at Powerscourt very much.

The Japanese Garden, Powerscourt

Our penultimate excursion (apart from one final, smooth charging up of the car) was again to the coast.  We visited Bray Head with the intention of walking along the coastal path for a while.  Unfortunately, this was shut due to a recent rockfall so we ventured up towards Bray Head.  This was a steep and stony climb that, until we reached the top, afforded none of the expected views of Bray or the coast to the north. 

Looking South and North West From Bray Head

Eventually I made it to the top of the tree line to get some long views up the coast and across to the Wicklow Mountains but I eschewed the final scramble to the imperious, concrete Bray Head Cross which was built in 1950 and from which, I imagine, the vistas are even more spectacular.

Bray Head Cross – It’s Bigger Than It Looks Here

Jane had one more thing on her bucket list for the trip before we left for Roslare and the ferry uncomfortably early the following morning.  That was to visit a traditional, rural Irish pub.  We popped into the one nearest to our Airbnb, Brennans in Kilteel, which was just inside Kildare rather than Wicklow. 

An Authentic But Rather Empty ‘Brennans’, Kilteel, At 6pm On A Monday Evening

As was befitting, I had a pint of Guinness (which took me fractionally over my 100 alcohol unit quota for the month but which was very nice and creamy).  In a nod to our normal UK-routine we completed the Guardian newspaper Quick Crossword over our drinks.  Then we headed back to our Airbnb to finish the Netflix Scandi-noir crime series we had started earlier in our trip, polished off the remaining chocolate and crisps, and had an early night.  It was a pleasantly chilled evening to complete our busy day and our brief stay in Ireland!

Before An Irish Wedding

At the end of August, Jane and I travelled by road and ferry to County Wicklow in Ireland to attend, and help celebrate, the wedding of a granddaughter of Jane’s aunt.  This was a great opportunity to see a part of Ireland and a useful test of driving (and, critically, charging up) our electric car in a foreign country.  We had decided to tack a free day on either side of the two days of the wedding events so we could get a feel for County Wicklow and space out the two 12-hour journeys to and from Ireland.

Leaving Fishguard, Approaching Roslare. The Ferry Trip Reminded Me Of My Childhood Trips To The Isle of Wight

The only time I had been to the Republic of Ireland before was for a short conference in Dublin.  I only really remember that trip for it being the only time in my working career that I was ever late for the start of a conference due to drink-induced oversleeping (I had previously prided myself on turning up no matter what).  During this latest visit, the drinking was much more moderate, the wedding celebrations were lovely and we had a very good time.

We stayed in an Airbnb on the west side of the Wicklow Mountains – the opposite side from the location of the wedding.  That meant more driving for Jane (since she didn’t really trust me in the narrow lanes) but it enabled us to see much more of County Wicklow and the eastern edge of County Kildare.  Having our own car allowed a comfortable familiarity and charging it up was relatively easy, although more expensive than in the UK. 

Our Airbnb was in a renovated and repurposed farm outbuilding amid a lovely garden that is periodically open to the public – June Blake’s Garden.  At the time of our visit the flower beds were packed with colour.  The dahlias (I have come to love this species of plant) were particularly gorgeous.  It was lovely to stroll through the garden and among the restored farm buildings whenever we went out to the car or just to put the recycling out. 

June Blake’s Garden, Blessington, Wicklow

Armed with information from the Airbnb host, the bride to be and a travel blog I follow by someone living in Ireland (Marie at HopsSkipsandJumps), we ad-libbed our itinerary and set off on our first free morning to the National Botanic Gardens at Kilmacurragh.  The meadows, trees and one long flower bed that was full of interesting plants and masses of bees and butterflies, were lovely and the weather was kind.

National Botanic Gardens, Kilmacurragh

We then headed to the town of Wicklow for a perusal of the county town and lunch.  Already we were finding the Irish people very friendly and, as we sat on the quayside with our fish and chips, a quip from a passer-by, “ahh, fine dining!”, made us giggle. 

Wicklow Town Docks – Perfect Spot For Fish And Chips!

We took a look at the remains of a Norman castle, (The Black Castle) on a promontory overlooking the town.  We loved the views along the coast in gorgeous sunshine.

Views From The Black Castle, Wicklow Town

Jane wanted to visit the hand weaving mill and shop at the ancient and pretty rural settlement of Avoca.  Having negotiated our way down some very narrow roads to Avoca and wandered around the shop, we returned to the coast for a wander along one of the long and surprisingly empty beaches on the Wicklow coast.  

Avoca Handweaving Mill And Shop
The Long Beach At Brittas Bay

We then headed home equipped with bits of fruit, nuts, chocolate and crisps for an evening in front of Netflix.  To be honest we didn’t eat very healthily until we got to the wedding reception but we did enjoy The Lørenskog Disappearance, which is yet another European crime thriller in which we seem to specialise.

Next morning was rather grey and drizzly.  We ventured a quick walk and a breath of fresh but damp air around a section of the nearby Blessington Lakes. These were formed over 50 years ago when the Poulaphoca Dam was built. 

Blessington Lakes And Low Cloud Over The Wicklow Mountains

Fearing rain, we headed back to the Airbnb to change into our glad rags.  In my case that involved squeezing rather inelegantly into a morning suit that I hadn’t worn for decades and that I first wore at my own wedding over 38 years ago.  It was a little tight to say the least!

Then we were off to the wedding ceremony.  The wedding service, in Nun’s Cross Church, Killiskey, was lovely and cheering.  The weather perked up for the photos on the way out and we made our way to the wedding reception.

Ballycurry

This was in a giant marquee directly in front of an impressive country house owned by the bride’s family.  The estate is managed by her aunt and uncle and, latterly, her brother.  The setting and arrangements for the reception were both marvellous.  The marquee was laid out for around 170 guests and we all enjoyed an evening of plentiful drinks, lovely food (especially the local lamb), dancing, mingling and celebrating. 

It was a late night by the time we got back to the Airbnb, but it had been a thoroughly memorable day.